WASTEGATE OPTIONS AND ALTERNATIVES
#16
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I already have a 3 bar FPR, 3" exhaust with Borla muffler, APE MAF and boost ****, but he says that since I have a small leak by the rear main seal and the oil pan, and it's never been overhauled, that it would just stress the motor out even more and cause more leaks and more complications with the boost coming in quicker and holding the boost to redline...so I was thinking about what I could do with the stock WG I have on it now, since the next thing on my list is to rebuild the ball joints with the RENNBAY kit first...
Adding shims has the same effect as getting a new WG, atleast in the context of your mechanics theory.
If you want a new wastegate, buy a Tial, and be done with it.
Oh, and get a new mechanic.
#17
Your mechanic is smarter than you think. He wants to save your money so you can spend it on him.
The stock WG has a 20+ y/o diaphragm that is bound to go any day. Also, the valve could stick open or shut any, nothing you can do about it.
The LR gate reuses the valve and body for the same price as a Tial which replaces the entire thing. Dave Lindsey argues that you should buy his because you may experience "flutter" on the Tial 38mm. I'm not a fan of adapter plates either.
My pick is the Tial F-41. It bolts to the stock crossover with no modifications. If you want to tie back in, you will need to buy a 90 degree bend of 1.5" stainless in the tighest radius you can find from Jegs or ATP. Take the WG, included flanges, and tubing to an exhaust shop if you don't feel comfortable installing it yourself (some welding required on the tie in).
Why the F-41 over the F-38? I'm not sure to be honest, it just looks a little nicer ...and maybe you just can't justify spending $100+ on two ugly adapter plates and their associated hardware.
The stock WG has a 20+ y/o diaphragm that is bound to go any day. Also, the valve could stick open or shut any, nothing you can do about it.
The LR gate reuses the valve and body for the same price as a Tial which replaces the entire thing. Dave Lindsey argues that you should buy his because you may experience "flutter" on the Tial 38mm. I'm not a fan of adapter plates either.
My pick is the Tial F-41. It bolts to the stock crossover with no modifications. If you want to tie back in, you will need to buy a 90 degree bend of 1.5" stainless in the tighest radius you can find from Jegs or ATP. Take the WG, included flanges, and tubing to an exhaust shop if you don't feel comfortable installing it yourself (some welding required on the tie in).
Why the F-41 over the F-38? I'm not sure to be honest, it just looks a little nicer ...and maybe you just can't justify spending $100+ on two ugly adapter plates and their associated hardware.
#18
After reading all the positive comments on this forum I switched from an almost new OEM WG (shimmed 5mm) to a Tial 38mm with a 1.0 bar spring but could not spot a difference until I ran the Tial in DP mode.
A friend runs a modified OEM WG with a stiffer spring in single port mode with a LR Super 75 turbo and it holds boost under WOT until throttle is closed (measured with his Zeitronix).
My take is that the OEM WG is not as basically bad as most who have had experience with old and tired examples believe and it should not be put down too quickly.
That said, replacing an old and tired OEM WG with a Tial 38mm remains IMO probably the most cost effective way to proceed.
A friend runs a modified OEM WG with a stiffer spring in single port mode with a LR Super 75 turbo and it holds boost under WOT until throttle is closed (measured with his Zeitronix).
My take is that the OEM WG is not as basically bad as most who have had experience with old and tired examples believe and it should not be put down too quickly.
That said, replacing an old and tired OEM WG with a Tial 38mm remains IMO probably the most cost effective way to proceed.
#19
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IF your mechanic was right, and he's not, why would it make sense for you to do exactly what he's telling you NOT to do?
Adding shims has the same effect as getting a new WG, atleast in the context of your mechanics theory.
If you want a new wastegate, buy a Tial, and be done with it.
Oh, and get a new mechanic.
Adding shims has the same effect as getting a new WG, atleast in the context of your mechanics theory.
If you want a new wastegate, buy a Tial, and be done with it.
Oh, and get a new mechanic.
#22
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I have a 46 mm Tial that will be going on the car. It has a 15 psi spring and will be controlled by a Profec B.
As a side note I hear that Lindsey is working on a custom casting and all WG to replace their clubgate and DP offerings.
As a side note I hear that Lindsey is working on a custom casting and all WG to replace their clubgate and DP offerings.
#23
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#25
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#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
I looked at the LR wg and it is really a stock wg with a nice top, you have to send in the core, what a hassle, $410, too much.
I spoke to Turbo Tim and he sold me on the Synapse 40mm over the Tial 38mm...going to order the Synapse!
I spoke to Turbo Tim and he sold me on the Synapse 40mm over the Tial 38mm...going to order the Synapse!
#28
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Not sure how the Synapse bolts up compared to the Tial 38. I had the Tial and it jammed shut so I boosted to over 2 bar on the track. Took me a while to hear the engine trying to redistribute it's parts with my helmet on. I also didn't like the lack of meat on the flanges. Very little space to perform a good seal. Seems like many people have had good experiences with them though. I've had a LR dpwg for a few years now. Seems fine to me.
#29
A couple things about Tial,Synapse,38mm vs.40mm vs.46mm,etc....Cars with one peice crossovers will have a more diffcult time installing a Tial 38mm wastegate because the top banjo fitting can come in contact with the torque tube.We have sold these set-ups to people with the one piece crossover and it requires grinding the torque tube housing a little to fit.You will run into the same issue with the Synapse.Another issue peopel have experienced when installing one of these wastegate is the wastegate dumptube that goes back to the exhaust.Some of these tubes have a mounting bracket and some of them dont.The dumptubes that have the mounting bracket will have to be modifed to make the install easier or even possible in some cases.
We have sold a ton of these 38mm set-ups over the years and even though the wastegate is not supported like the factory unit,there just doesnt seem to be any issues with it.The adaptor plates do come in mild steel which is more then adequate for the job.We can do them in stainless but the price will go up quite a bit since stainless is expensive and hard to machine in comparison.
For race cars,we always reeccomend the 46mm Tial unit because it uses four bolt flanges instead of two bolt flanges. The installation is also a breeze with our adaptor kit. The 46mm wastegate will handle enough exhaust flow for over 800 WHP and it is a bit overkill but for tracks cars,it is unbeatable from a reliability standpoint.Hopefully this info helps you guys out.
We have sold a ton of these 38mm set-ups over the years and even though the wastegate is not supported like the factory unit,there just doesnt seem to be any issues with it.The adaptor plates do come in mild steel which is more then adequate for the job.We can do them in stainless but the price will go up quite a bit since stainless is expensive and hard to machine in comparison.
For race cars,we always reeccomend the 46mm Tial unit because it uses four bolt flanges instead of two bolt flanges. The installation is also a breeze with our adaptor kit. The 46mm wastegate will handle enough exhaust flow for over 800 WHP and it is a bit overkill but for tracks cars,it is unbeatable from a reliability standpoint.Hopefully this info helps you guys out.
#30
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The stock hanger can be made to work with the Tial. It just needs a hole drilled. Mine is mounted with the stock hanger and its very secure.
It can also help to cut the last inch or more off the dump pipe, to make it easier to get into the mating pipe on the exhaust. That helped on my setup.
Mine is rock solid, nothing touching the torque tube that shouldnt be, etc.
It can also help to cut the last inch or more off the dump pipe, to make it easier to get into the mating pipe on the exhaust. That helped on my setup.
Mine is rock solid, nothing touching the torque tube that shouldnt be, etc.