Clutch Pedal Issues
#1
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Clutch Pedal Issues
Well, 2x in the last week my clutch pedal has gone to the floorboard.
I was very surprised as my clutch slave/master cylinder have been changed out in the last few years.
I did some tests to see if the clutch itself was slipping and I detect no slipping. Clutch was done around the same time and updated with Cup clutch disc.
Do the slave/master cylinders go bad in only a few years?
I was very surprised as my clutch slave/master cylinder have been changed out in the last few years.
I did some tests to see if the clutch itself was slipping and I detect no slipping. Clutch was done around the same time and updated with Cup clutch disc.
Do the slave/master cylinders go bad in only a few years?
#2
I you have not been losing fluid, you probably have air in the system. Bleeding these can be a bit tedious. Not hard, tedious. Try it with the back of the car higher than the front. You need to remove the starter.
#3
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No, I looked all over the floor board and the pedal and did not see any fluid or leaks.
So how did I get air in the system? Wouldn't that be a sign of a leak or compromised seal/washer, etc. ?
So how did I get air in the system? Wouldn't that be a sign of a leak or compromised seal/washer, etc. ?
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Look at the line that runs between the master and the slave.
Also look underneath the carpet. When my master cylinder went it leaked under the carpet.
Also look underneath the carpet. When my master cylinder went it leaked under the carpet.
#5
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some times the line going from the master cylinder to the slave can get a pin hole in it. I know mine was on the brink of leaking when I replaced it. Also, you might just have some air in the lines.. could be from the exhaust boiling the fluid (if that is even possible?).
I would say start at the line, check the bleeder valve on the slave (might be loose). Check the master cylinder connections as well.
I would say start at the line, check the bleeder valve on the slave (might be loose). Check the master cylinder connections as well.
#6
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and an old trick on the bleeder for the slave cylinder is to remove it all the way when you change it and put some grease on the threads, thick bearing grease, and reinstall it; just aids a bit against air if the machining was rough.
#7
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fluid loss
As the clutch wears the slave goes out and takes more fluid in. If your master cylinder was low, you could have pulled in some air then. At least that is what happened on my turbo S.
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#8
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Thanks for all the ideas guys!
Also, how do you actually check the clutch fluid levels?? Might be a dumb question but I have never read about being able to check or add clutch fluid.??
Or is this in the same system as the brakes/fluid?
Also, how do you actually check the clutch fluid levels?? Might be a dumb question but I have never read about being able to check or add clutch fluid.??
Or is this in the same system as the brakes/fluid?
#9
Race Car
same as brake fluid
if you have bled the brakes or the fluid has gotten low that could be where the air came from.
A speed bleeder works good, however it is best to start bleeding at the top (fitting junctions at firewall)and then go down to the slave. Make sure the fluid is always topped off.
if you have bled the brakes or the fluid has gotten low that could be where the air came from.
A speed bleeder works good, however it is best to start bleeding at the top (fitting junctions at firewall)and then go down to the slave. Make sure the fluid is always topped off.
#10
The Motive power bleeder is a huge time saver in bleeding this out, took me less than 10 minutes to bleed the entire system after replacing both the master/slave and all the lines.
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bleeding clutch
I just finished a clutch job last weekend which included a slave cylinder rebuild. Without a powerbleeder I probably had at least two hours into the bleeding process, last half hour with a buddy helping. Most trouble I have ever had bleeding out a clutch or brake system! Finally used the tips from Clark's Garage to get me there.