951 or 968 transmission for LS1 engine
01-04-2009, 01:15 AM
#31
Three Wheelin'
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its now 06:14 localtime, and I found something good.
mendola SDR might hold up/work, and is around 11000USD
but even better might be the ricardo transaxle, found on the ford GT, pagani zonda etc. its around 11000GBP
http://www.ricardo.com/engineeringse...?page=products
now I just found a "ZFQ" supposedly a remake of the old zfs for the GT40s, lots of ls1-9 seem to use them, and rated for up to 600hp v8s, and only 6000GBP. now that is interesting.
pic of it in a car.
mendola SDR might hold up/work, and is around 11000USD
but even better might be the ricardo transaxle, found on the ford GT, pagani zonda etc. its around 11000GBP
http://www.ricardo.com/engineeringse...?page=products
now I just found a "ZFQ" supposedly a remake of the old zfs for the GT40s, lots of ls1-9 seem to use them, and rated for up to 600hp v8s, and only 6000GBP. now that is interesting.
pic of it in a car.
Last edited by anders44; 01-04-2009 at 01:30 AM.
01-04-2009, 01:53 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
01-04-2009, 02:16 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
you can buy one from quaife for around 8000GBP, but they won't back it with a warranty, it takes what.. 60%? of what Im planning to throw at it.
finding a box isnt the issue, finding one strong enough, cheap enough is, as for sequential, or dogbox its an advantage, but for <10k I dont think its doable.
hewland has a few products that fits my needs, but at 2-4X the price I wanna pay. 30-40k gearbox, on a 944 is madness! you get a used 997 cupcar for what.. 60K GBP?
finding a box isnt the issue, finding one strong enough, cheap enough is, as for sequential, or dogbox its an advantage, but for <10k I dont think its doable.
hewland has a few products that fits my needs, but at 2-4X the price I wanna pay. 30-40k gearbox, on a 944 is madness! you get a used 997 cupcar for what.. 60K GBP?
01-04-2009, 03:50 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
I think it's going to be pricey any way you look at it.
I say go with a 3.1 r&p for the six speed or the 2.9 r&p for the five speed. They are bigger, more teeth. stronger.
Have them cryo treated and remmed. That's the strongest, least expensive way to go. And it's still expensive.
I say go with a 3.1 r&p for the six speed or the 2.9 r&p for the five speed. They are bigger, more teeth. stronger.
Have them cryo treated and remmed. That's the strongest, least expensive way to go. And it's still expensive.
01-04-2009, 07:07 AM
#38
Rennlist Member
Yeah it's like what you said you want to do to Joe's avatar.
01-04-2009, 02:42 PM
#40
Dfastest951,
I would be interested in the 2.9 5 speed R&P: how much are they? Are the custom made or something OE?. I also tried to do the 3.1 R&P when I was running a 968 trans axle but could not make it happen. I built a 6 speed with the .60 6th but the real issue is the gear spacing on 1st through 5th. The .60 was nice for cruising but it was a big drop from 5th to 6th. With the LS1 torque I found myself shifting just too much especially on the track. Street driving I would go 1st-3rd-5th to avoid useless shifts. I compared the Tremec 5 speed ratios to the 951 gearbox and they are very similar and the Tremec transmissions are typically used with V8 engines. That being said I currently run a cryo/rem treated 951TS gearbox with a S2 5th gear (.778) and is the best compromise I have found for my setup. I just rode in a friends 944 LS1 with a 951 trans and a NA .83 5th and is works well if you want even more reduced RPM for highway cruising. A cryo/rem treated 951TS with taller 5th is the most cost effective solution IMHO. The durability has a lot to do with how you prepair, treat and service the trans axle. In 12 years of driving LT1 and LS1 converted cars I have yet to damage a trans axle; I don't to drag race starts (OK I have done a few ) but do A LOT of track days and street driving. I have bought several 951 gearboxes (for less than $500) so if I do break one I have plenty of low cost spare parts. My new 404 LS2 make 485RWHP and 470RWTQ that's 100hp and 85lbs more torque that my old engine so i'll see if the trans axle will live with the added power. Thanks for all your input and information!
Tom
I would be interested in the 2.9 5 speed R&P: how much are they? Are the custom made or something OE?. I also tried to do the 3.1 R&P when I was running a 968 trans axle but could not make it happen. I built a 6 speed with the .60 6th but the real issue is the gear spacing on 1st through 5th. The .60 was nice for cruising but it was a big drop from 5th to 6th. With the LS1 torque I found myself shifting just too much especially on the track. Street driving I would go 1st-3rd-5th to avoid useless shifts. I compared the Tremec 5 speed ratios to the 951 gearbox and they are very similar and the Tremec transmissions are typically used with V8 engines. That being said I currently run a cryo/rem treated 951TS gearbox with a S2 5th gear (.778) and is the best compromise I have found for my setup. I just rode in a friends 944 LS1 with a 951 trans and a NA .83 5th and is works well if you want even more reduced RPM for highway cruising. A cryo/rem treated 951TS with taller 5th is the most cost effective solution IMHO. The durability has a lot to do with how you prepair, treat and service the trans axle. In 12 years of driving LT1 and LS1 converted cars I have yet to damage a trans axle; I don't to drag race starts (OK I have done a few ) but do A LOT of track days and street driving. I have bought several 951 gearboxes (for less than $500) so if I do break one I have plenty of low cost spare parts. My new 404 LS2 make 485RWHP and 470RWTQ that's 100hp and 85lbs more torque that my old engine so i'll see if the trans axle will live with the added power. Thanks for all your input and information!
Tom
01-04-2009, 04:26 PM
#41
Three Wheelin'
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mr 968ls1, please tell more about your engine how its built etc, my plan is to use a ls3 as a basis to achive my 500RWHP goal. what did you pay for your ls2 modded?
01-04-2009, 07:20 PM
#42
LS2
Anders,
I used a LS2 block .010 over with a 4" stroke Callies 4340 crankshaft. Callies Compstar 6.125 rods and Mahle forged pistons. The engine could make more HP but I wanted to keep it milder for street use and a broad power curve. Since I already had an ECU and wiring harness that I was using with my old LS1 I needed to keep the 24X relecutor wheel on the crank. If I was starting from scratch the LS3 376 would be a great choice, they use the higher count 48X reluctor wheel so I would have had to change my ECU and harness. The 404 long block was around 5K and I used all my old F-body accessories from the LS1. The engine is pretty basic, balanced and blueprinted bottom end, ported Melling HP oil pump, ARP head and main studs, Ported GM 243 heads with stainless valves, titanium locks and retainers. custom ground Comp Cam. I assembled the engine myself and got a great deal on the Crank and Block.
Tom
I used a LS2 block .010 over with a 4" stroke Callies 4340 crankshaft. Callies Compstar 6.125 rods and Mahle forged pistons. The engine could make more HP but I wanted to keep it milder for street use and a broad power curve. Since I already had an ECU and wiring harness that I was using with my old LS1 I needed to keep the 24X relecutor wheel on the crank. If I was starting from scratch the LS3 376 would be a great choice, they use the higher count 48X reluctor wheel so I would have had to change my ECU and harness. The 404 long block was around 5K and I used all my old F-body accessories from the LS1. The engine is pretty basic, balanced and blueprinted bottom end, ported Melling HP oil pump, ARP head and main studs, Ported GM 243 heads with stainless valves, titanium locks and retainers. custom ground Comp Cam. I assembled the engine myself and got a great deal on the Crank and Block.
Tom
01-04-2009, 08:23 PM
#43
Burning Brakes
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01-04-2009, 08:33 PM
#44
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Nice input Tom. So you've never broken CVs or axles or any internals on a 951 tranny? How much does the remming/cryo treatment cost?
01-04-2009, 09:56 PM
#45
LS2
333,
I have had CV's loosen and fail as well as cut boots that lead to failure during DE sessions; now they are safety wired. I am adding a support rod to limit side to side movement, to limit load on drivers inner CV; saw it here on RL and it looks like a good idea. I have yet to explode a CV or break a trans (I will probably kill my trans now that I have written this post Dog gone it!!!!).
I got the Cryo treatment through a business connection and I paid $350.00, I don't know if that's a good deal on not.
DVC,
I looked at the module from LPE but since the Callies crank I bought had the 24X wheel I did not need to convert the signal. I am actually using the Casper's adapters for the knock and cam position sensors on the LS2 block.
I have had CV's loosen and fail as well as cut boots that lead to failure during DE sessions; now they are safety wired. I am adding a support rod to limit side to side movement, to limit load on drivers inner CV; saw it here on RL and it looks like a good idea. I have yet to explode a CV or break a trans (I will probably kill my trans now that I have written this post Dog gone it!!!!).
I got the Cryo treatment through a business connection and I paid $350.00, I don't know if that's a good deal on not.
DVC,
I looked at the module from LPE but since the Callies crank I bought had the 24X wheel I did not need to convert the signal. I am actually using the Casper's adapters for the knock and cam position sensors on the LS2 block.