adrial

I've got everything up and running with the Haltech E6k, batch fire fueling and direct fire ignition. It starts and idles well, revs cleanly up to 2k rpm. ,

I'm using an MSD coil (Eagle Talon part).

I am using a flying magnet cam trigger and I've checked timing with a timing light. I've tried several different sensor gaps, there is no difference. This setup seems to be completely insensitive to sensor gap (varied from 1/32" to 3/16").

However, if I bring the revs above 2,200rpm it seems to run on 2 cylinders. Once I bring it above 2k and it starts to miss, it'll continue to do that until I shut it off. It'll start to pop & back fire if I don't shut it off soon after this starts to happen.

If I try to restart without first disabling the injectors, it will struggle to fire. If I disable the injectors and crank it to clean it out, it fires right up. Because of this, I tend to think it's an ignition issue.

I am using a dumb ignitor, constant charge, 3.5ms charge time, falling edge.

Anybody have any ideas??

Earlier in the process, the timing belt somehow jumped teeth. It was tensioned correctly (spring tensioner) although I didn't install the guard on the waterpump, so maybe it got jammed up and jumped teeth? Cam timing was retarded ~45 degrees. I retimed it and checked compression -- ~120psi warm, fairly even across all 4 cylinders. I am going to get another gauge and check it again, but it seems that whatever damage was done was minimal...minimal enough that it should be able to rev cleanly to redline.

A.Wayne

Ditch the flying magnets system ................................................

Duke

Definatly a trigger issue. IMHO of course

adrial

That was my first thought ... but changing the gap had no affect whatsoever. Neither did routing the shielded cable directly over the spark plug wires, just to check if that had any affect.

I had the reluctor that you needed to use a 60-2 wheel, but Haltech support indicated that there would be no benefit whatsoever to using that over a flying magnet setup. I've also heard of some people having difficulty using a 60-2 with Haltech EMS. Hence my decision to use the flying magnet setup...

Any suggestions outside of coming up with an entirely new trigger? That's obviously a last resort...

Duke

Do you have any pics of the setup?

theedge

Could you have a bad coilpack? You could try a timing light to see if its the two cylinders connected to one coilpack that are running funny then swap coil packs and see if the problem cylinders change too.

adrial

Well I finally found time to head down to the garage (40 mins away) and ....

I found that I had the wires running to the coilpack wrong (+ going to where the negative trigger from ignition channel was supposed to). I swapped this and the car will still not rev above 2200rpm. I also tried swapping to a new coil, no change.
However, now it cuts all 4 cylinders until the revs drop back down to idle and it picks up again OR it just dies with a huge backfire out the exhaust as the engine comes to a stop.

Here's a couple pictures of the trigger & 2 datalogs. In the first datalog, I killed ignition at 120rpm hoping to avoid the nasty backfire...no such luck. The 3 60rpm instances the Haltech does everytime I turn it on, possibly just it's way of priming.

The face of the cam sensor is a little scratched up from when the trigger wheel came lose and made contact, but I don't think it's causing any issues. Although it's really the last thing I can think of to try. I have some time to head down there tomorrow so I appreciate any suggestions.

dand86951

Is there a chance that the sensor is picking up the steel bolts holding the cam gear on? I know they shouldn't be magnetized, but I have seen bolts become magnetized. A real long shot but something to check.

Another thing is whether or not having the + going to the negative trigger may have damaged the circuits within the Haltech? Not sure how it could damage it in a way that would let it work up to 2200 and then not after though.

In looking at the datalogs, it seems you are not making anywhere near the vacuum you should be at 1500 to 2000 rpm under no or low load. Not sure I am reading the Haltech correctly but I think you should be down in the 40kpa range rather than 80s to 90s. This would indicate a big vacuum leak or radical cam or possibly miss timed cam. Any of those may create the problem especially a miss timed cam. Just some things for you to look at, good luck.

adrial

The steel bolts might be something to look at... they are probably 1/4" to 3/8" behind the trigger wheel though, so it's hard to imagine them interfering enough to cause an issue.

I don't think the Haltech was damaged by wiring the coil wrong. If anything maybe the ignitor, but I don't think so. As you said, it's hard to imagine how it would fail such that it limited the engine to 2200rpm.

Yeah that datalog image is a little screwy I realized. When I was viewing the datalog, I didn't have the Haltech software configured correctly. It was configured for metric units and a 1 bar MAP sensor. It pulls 17 InHg vacum on average at idle. Here is a corrected file:

thanks,
Adrial

A.Wayne

Again! ditch the flying mag system ! it is crap .....................

xrad

Your injector ms drops significantly at .9 bar, are you sure it's not a fuel issue. that can cause nasty backfire.

I had e6 system and used cam LED trigger wheel with home signal on a fourbanger , and wasted spark dual coil. Worked great. never used magnets.

I have never seen the 951 distributor up close(don;t know if it is like the 968). I can see you removed the rotor housing, but did it have an optical or Hall sensor under the rotor?? can you use that?

Euro951

Move it to the crankshaft. Something is telling me that your ignition isn't firing at at the correct intervals. I have never seen a flying magnet setup on a camgear.

adrial

Care to elaborate? In theory it should work well enough to run an engine.

Injection did drop off pretty sharply to less than 1ms, I assume that's just decel enrichment kicking in but I'll take a look. Unfortunately there is no optyical or hall sensor on the factory 951 distributor.

Ign timing checks out when using a timing light. There are 4 magnets on the cam as opposed to 2 on the crank. So the sensor is seeing 2 magnets per rotation of the crank, the same as if it was mounted on the crank itself.

All suggestions are appreciated!

thanks,
Adriak

Euro951

Are you using a MSD box? Where is your Haltech mounted? Is there a chance the MSD box either could be failing or is it mounted two close to your Haltech?

Also, Flying magnet pickups have been used for years on racecars without problems.....

adrial

The Haltech EMS is in the passenger footwell. The ignitor is a Haltech unit roughly 6 inches from the Haltech EMS and the coil is in the engine bay where the factory airbox was located.

It doesn't seem that the issue is interference on the ignition side based on this.

thanks,
Adrial