BEST 20W50 Dino Oil?
09-12-2008, 05:11 PM
#46
Race Director
Hey I don't like it either, but I buy mine exclusively on line as a perferred customer. I buy enough oil in a year to pay off the membership in price discounts. Doing it that way is easy. Go to website. Place order. Oil Arrives. No "dealer" to deal with.
09-12-2008, 07:29 PM
#47
Racer
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May be worth a shot:
"Shell Rotella T which is a conventional (mineral-based) oil that was originally formulated for diesel engines. Rotella T still contains 1,200 parts per million ZDDP, according to Shell - which is as much as five times the amount found in other oils. Don’t sweat it that Rotella was/is "for diesels." It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need their ZDDP. Rotella’s also modestly priced and readily available at most any auto parts store. Shell also markets a synthetic version of Rotella that offers even more protection - as well as longevity and a 5W-40 viscosity for those who operate their vehicles in colder climates. Standard Rotella comes in a heavier 15W-40 blend. "
"Shell Rotella T which is a conventional (mineral-based) oil that was originally formulated for diesel engines. Rotella T still contains 1,200 parts per million ZDDP, according to Shell - which is as much as five times the amount found in other oils. Don’t sweat it that Rotella was/is "for diesels." It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need their ZDDP. Rotella’s also modestly priced and readily available at most any auto parts store. Shell also markets a synthetic version of Rotella that offers even more protection - as well as longevity and a 5W-40 viscosity for those who operate their vehicles in colder climates. Standard Rotella comes in a heavier 15W-40 blend. "
09-12-2008, 08:24 PM
#48
Drifting
Thread Starter
Oy, vey. You sound like a Amsoil distributer. This is why talking about oil is as bad as, if not worse than, politics and religion.
If Amsoil is the best, then why did Lubrication Engineers do better on the Falex pin and vee block test? And why did Mobil 1 outperform it in TFOUT (Thin Film Oxidation Uptake Tests)? And why does Amsoil continue to wax poetic about how well they do with the outdated Falex four ball tests? Why does the base stock continuously change with Amsoil, despite it being the same series and weight? Who is the contracted refinery for Amsoil this quarter? And why do they insist on selling it through a pyramid scheme (and try to disguise it as MLM)?
My point is that no single oil can claim to be best at everything. There are compromises you have to reach to find what works best for you. The only way to really know is to have oil analysis performed to see how well a particular oil is protecting your engine with your driving style and maintenance schedule. I've been looking for a starting point. It's up to me to figure out what qualifies as best (OCI, cost, etc).
If Amsoil is the best, then why did Lubrication Engineers do better on the Falex pin and vee block test? And why did Mobil 1 outperform it in TFOUT (Thin Film Oxidation Uptake Tests)? And why does Amsoil continue to wax poetic about how well they do with the outdated Falex four ball tests? Why does the base stock continuously change with Amsoil, despite it being the same series and weight? Who is the contracted refinery for Amsoil this quarter? And why do they insist on selling it through a pyramid scheme (and try to disguise it as MLM)?
My point is that no single oil can claim to be best at everything. There are compromises you have to reach to find what works best for you. The only way to really know is to have oil analysis performed to see how well a particular oil is protecting your engine with your driving style and maintenance schedule. I've been looking for a starting point. It's up to me to figure out what qualifies as best (OCI, cost, etc).
09-12-2008, 08:39 PM
#49
Rennlist Member
I live in the desert 20w50, hard to find most oils in that viscosity.
09-14-2008, 11:26 PM
#52
Rennlist Member
Even though it's outdated I imagine that it still has some relevence? I'd like to see other brands in these tests though. Also, it looks like the 2 top oils there are straight 50w, yes?
09-15-2008, 12:54 AM
#55
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Quite astute my aussie friend. They put TWO 50 wt oils up against a group of 20W-50 oils. NOT the same.20W-50 oils are significantly thinner. OFCOURSE they wouldn't stack up.
09-15-2008, 01:25 AM
#56
Hey Man
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Nothing like another good oil thread. I gave up and just use VR-1 20W-50 that I've used for years since Mobil1 went Exxon and lowered the ZDDP. Oil is like a new religion on many forums.
09-15-2008, 02:03 AM
#57
Three Wheelin'
09-15-2008, 03:39 AM
#58
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Ever notice that I don't promote one over the other. I'll say what I use, but NEVER say it's the best. That **** cracks me up!
It starts with the first one and devolves into the last.
09-15-2008, 09:32 AM
#59
Rennlist Member
Well maybe not blow up, but perhaps a rod punching it's way out of it's little house due to the too thin oil getting too hot and not providing the necessary suspension between all the nasty bits of moving metal after spinning another bearing...
09-15-2008, 10:11 AM
#60
Burning Brakes
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QUOTE Navarro"* New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection"
That screams boron based anti-wear additive with lowered ZDDP levels IMHO. I guess it's VR1 not-street-legal from now on :-) Granted, the non-street legal has about half the detergency, so you can't go very long without an oil change, say no more than 3000 mi with it!
I'll also add the caveat that I don't recommend running Castrol GTX for more than 3,000 mi either. In our field testing, it broke down rather quickly (consumption of detergents, Zn, and P) compared to other oils.
Oh, and I will go as far as to say that if an oil has SM or CJ-4 on it, I wouldn't use it unless you have definative proof that the formulation hasn't changed or has good levels of Zn and P before using it.
That screams boron based anti-wear additive with lowered ZDDP levels IMHO. I guess it's VR1 not-street-legal from now on :-) Granted, the non-street legal has about half the detergency, so you can't go very long without an oil change, say no more than 3000 mi with it!
I'll also add the caveat that I don't recommend running Castrol GTX for more than 3,000 mi either. In our field testing, it broke down rather quickly (consumption of detergents, Zn, and P) compared to other oils.
Oh, and I will go as far as to say that if an oil has SM or CJ-4 on it, I wouldn't use it unless you have definative proof that the formulation hasn't changed or has good levels of Zn and P before using it.