Bent compressor blades .. and how does the K27/6 compare in spool up?
#1
Nordschleife Master
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I was retightening a couple things and decided to pull the j-boot for no good reason. I was surprised to see this..
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/My%201988%20Porsche%20944%20Turbo/IMG_6102.jpg)
Not exactly sure what happened. The turbo was rebuilt about 16k miles ago by the previous owner. Its a K26/6. It says 'upgraded' on the invoice but im not sure what, or if anything was actually upgraded during the rebuild. Anyway the car still runs great and boosts fine. There is very minimal shaft play..but enough that it is detectable. But honestly its such a small amount its nothing really major.
Nothing obvious was sucked into the intake.. all 3 bolts for the airbox to AFM are still present.
This is how it looked 1000 miles earlier when i did the headgasket..
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/My%201988%20Porsche%20944%20Turbo/Head%20Gasket%20Job/IMG_6017.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/My%201988%20Porsche%20944%20Turbo/Head%20Gasket%20Job/IMG_6016.jpg)
I really had no plans to change the turbo on this car for quiet some time. But i figure if replacement is in the cards for the future, i should upgrade it while i can. Big power is not my goal, i would be happy with something around ~300whp (+/- 15-20hp) at about 15psi and the quickest spool possible. My first thought was go with a K26/8, but having read a few older posts most say its more worth while to go with a K27/6 seeing as it would benefit more if i decide to bump the boost up higher in the future. Im curious though, how does the K27/6 compare in spool up to the K26/6 and K26/8 . Ive read the K26/8 is about 300rpm slower, how does the K27/6 compare to that?
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/My%201988%20Porsche%20944%20Turbo/IMG_6102.jpg)
Not exactly sure what happened. The turbo was rebuilt about 16k miles ago by the previous owner. Its a K26/6. It says 'upgraded' on the invoice but im not sure what, or if anything was actually upgraded during the rebuild. Anyway the car still runs great and boosts fine. There is very minimal shaft play..but enough that it is detectable. But honestly its such a small amount its nothing really major.
Nothing obvious was sucked into the intake.. all 3 bolts for the airbox to AFM are still present.
This is how it looked 1000 miles earlier when i did the headgasket..
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/My%201988%20Porsche%20944%20Turbo/Head%20Gasket%20Job/IMG_6017.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/My%201988%20Porsche%20944%20Turbo/Head%20Gasket%20Job/IMG_6016.jpg)
I really had no plans to change the turbo on this car for quiet some time. But i figure if replacement is in the cards for the future, i should upgrade it while i can. Big power is not my goal, i would be happy with something around ~300whp (+/- 15-20hp) at about 15psi and the quickest spool possible. My first thought was go with a K26/8, but having read a few older posts most say its more worth while to go with a K27/6 seeing as it would benefit more if i decide to bump the boost up higher in the future. Im curious though, how does the K27/6 compare in spool up to the K26/6 and K26/8 . Ive read the K26/8 is about 300rpm slower, how does the K27/6 compare to that?
#4
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This may or may not come in handy, but i have two K26/6 turbos.
Both have been taken apart, so if you need anything (new shaft w/turbine blades, new compressor wheel etc) i would be happy to send you something for free.
Both have been taken apart, so if you need anything (new shaft w/turbine blades, new compressor wheel etc) i would be happy to send you something for free.
#5
Nordschleife Master
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hosrom, thank you for the offer. Im not quiet sure what i am going to do yet, but more than likely will be upgrading the turbo eventually.
Keith, there is a little bit of oil that pools inside the coupling, other than that there is very little oil on the pipes and thorttle body. Nothing that is out of the ordinary i think.
And a few other short questions, what is the typical amount of time to replace the turbo?
And i guess this question is an obvious 'if you have to ask...'. But is there any major danger of continuing to run the car like this for a few months.? Its daily driven only with a couple auto-x's a year. I ship out in a couple weeks so the car is going to be sitting until mid July anyhow.
And where is a good place to buy a K27/6?
Keith, there is a little bit of oil that pools inside the coupling, other than that there is very little oil on the pipes and thorttle body. Nothing that is out of the ordinary i think.
And a few other short questions, what is the typical amount of time to replace the turbo?
And i guess this question is an obvious 'if you have to ask...'. But is there any major danger of continuing to run the car like this for a few months.? Its daily driven only with a couple auto-x's a year. I ship out in a couple weeks so the car is going to be sitting until mid July anyhow.
And where is a good place to buy a K27/6?
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#6
Three Wheelin'
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That compressor wheel looks a little bigger than a regular k26, maybe they machined in a bigger wheel?
If you dont autoX, I would strongly recommend going to at least a #8 turbine wheel/housing.
If you dont autoX, I would strongly recommend going to at least a #8 turbine wheel/housing.
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#8
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I still have this one available:
I also have a 951 J boot available that is very flexible and ready for the conversion (extra $50). Common practice is to cut the NA and the Turbo J boot and glue together and you are off to the races.
I have other pics of the turbo; if you are interested, PM me.
K27/6
Pulled from a 951 race car that endured a fuel fire in the engine compartment (I dont see how that would effect the turbo in any way). It has minimal axial play and was reputed to be a real good unit while in service - does not blow excessive oil. I had it checked at my machine shop and they gave it a clean bill of health. While there, I had the compressor housing bead blasted and replaced the compressor housing seal with a new Viton seal. Includes new fittings to properly offset the water line (you will need the short aux. water pump sensor to fit under a stock hood) and NA intake tube to adapt to stock 951 AFM. I was planning to install it over Thanksgiving break this year in Crush. Only reason I am selling is that I bought a Vitesse Stage 2.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/k27_copy1.jpg)
Compressor housing #'s read:
K27
94 073 0 220
5327 970 7006
: : : :
$450 (less than what I have into it)
Pulled from a 951 race car that endured a fuel fire in the engine compartment (I dont see how that would effect the turbo in any way). It has minimal axial play and was reputed to be a real good unit while in service - does not blow excessive oil. I had it checked at my machine shop and they gave it a clean bill of health. While there, I had the compressor housing bead blasted and replaced the compressor housing seal with a new Viton seal. Includes new fittings to properly offset the water line (you will need the short aux. water pump sensor to fit under a stock hood) and NA intake tube to adapt to stock 951 AFM. I was planning to install it over Thanksgiving break this year in Crush. Only reason I am selling is that I bought a Vitesse Stage 2.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/k27_copy1.jpg)
Compressor housing #'s read:
K27
94 073 0 220
5327 970 7006
: : : :
$450 (less than what I have into it)
I also have a 951 J boot available that is very flexible and ready for the conversion (extra $50). Common practice is to cut the NA and the Turbo J boot and glue together and you are off to the races.
I have other pics of the turbo; if you are interested, PM me.
#9
Nordschleife Master
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Hey guys, im really not sure what the deal with this turbo is. It still has the #6 hotside (can clearly see the flat casting mark). Its entirely possible the compressor was modified, maybe a 'cheater' turbo. But honestly the invoice for the work is so vague and the previous owner didnt even really know.
The car is mostly my daily driver with a full season of auto-x and one or two DE's per year thrown in. Quick spool is my main desire (and of course reliability). I have no desire to really exceed 300whp and i dont really ever plan on running more than 15psi. Reliability is my big goal. The car as is (probably around 250-260whp) is more than enough for me on the track considering i came from driving a 147bhp n/a 944 for over 6 years. Id like to learn to drive it before i start going nuts. Also i have all of the hard stuff to acquire for a 3.0L block in storage at my fathers place...thats for the future
.
Mike, other than checking for shaft play when i did the headgasket, i never touched anything regarding the turbo.
Matt, is that K27/6 basically ready to bolt in? Do you have more details on the short watertemp sensor (IE, where to get one)?
The car is mostly my daily driver with a full season of auto-x and one or two DE's per year thrown in. Quick spool is my main desire (and of course reliability). I have no desire to really exceed 300whp and i dont really ever plan on running more than 15psi. Reliability is my big goal. The car as is (probably around 250-260whp) is more than enough for me on the track considering i came from driving a 147bhp n/a 944 for over 6 years. Id like to learn to drive it before i start going nuts. Also i have all of the hard stuff to acquire for a 3.0L block in storage at my fathers place...thats for the future
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Mike, other than checking for shaft play when i did the headgasket, i never touched anything regarding the turbo.
Matt, is that K27/6 basically ready to bolt in? Do you have more details on the short watertemp sensor (IE, where to get one)?
#11
Nordschleife Master
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Thanks Matt, i saved the part number for future reference
.
So i guess the last question is, how long is it 'okay' to run the turbo like this. Obviously its not going to be perfectly balanced anymore and that will probably kill the seals / bearings alot faster. The car is going into storage in three weeks and i wont be back to mess around with it until mid July.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So i guess the last question is, how long is it 'okay' to run the turbo like this. Obviously its not going to be perfectly balanced anymore and that will probably kill the seals / bearings alot faster. The car is going into storage in three weeks and i wont be back to mess around with it until mid July.
#13
Three Wheelin'
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was about to ask you how much whine your turbo has?
Honestly I really can't answer the question, ive never seen this problem. Ive only known of them all getting bent up and then need to be changed. I would assume that there is nothing wrong with running it indefinantly, your boost may suffer tho?
#14
Nordschleife Master
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The spool up is very noticeable right now. Im not going to lie, when i hit full boost (set at about 12.5psi right now) and the wastegate opens and dumps to atmosphere...paired with the extra whistle it sounds pretty menacing.
Im going to sleep on my options...but i think more than likely ill have a K27/6 ready to put on when i get back..
.
Im going to sleep on my options...but i think more than likely ill have a K27/6 ready to put on when i get back..
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#15
Racer
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Hi Jon, I had the same issue with my 60-1 hifi, although I bent the blades accidently when removing the compressor housing. I contacted the turbo supplier who told me a small reduction in efficiency was expected & was ok to continue to run as is and that the balance would not be significantly affected, if I was careful it was possible to bend the blades back, so I tried that, they are alloy blades so work hardening is a potential problem. However I can share mine went back to almost perfect shape seems fine.
I know this isnt exactly 'the right way' but...
regards
mike
I know this isnt exactly 'the right way' but...
regards
mike