Euro driving lights / fogs with IceShark's lighting harness
#1
Euro driving lights / fogs with IceShark's lighting harness
I looked through a couple of old threads but couldnt really find a definitive answer. Im wondering what is the best way to wire euro driving lights and fogs with to Dan Wray's (RIP) light harness with the extra pig tail.
Do i basically run two leads off the pig tail into the fog light housing, and use a connector for the driving light bulb, or should i be doing something to run both the fogs and driving lights off the pig tail lead? Hopefully someone has a wiring diagram i can work from.
Im also wondering what is the normal operation of the driving lights? Say i am running the headlights and have the fog lights on, if i switch to high beams, if wired normally, it then would goto high beam headlights, driving lights and the fogs would be off?
I am guessing the setup will be 100w headlights, 100w driving lights and regular 55w fogs.
Also does anyone know what comes with the euro light wiring kit from Paragon?
Do i basically run two leads off the pig tail into the fog light housing, and use a connector for the driving light bulb, or should i be doing something to run both the fogs and driving lights off the pig tail lead? Hopefully someone has a wiring diagram i can work from.
Im also wondering what is the normal operation of the driving lights? Say i am running the headlights and have the fog lights on, if i switch to high beams, if wired normally, it then would goto high beam headlights, driving lights and the fogs would be off?
I am guessing the setup will be 100w headlights, 100w driving lights and regular 55w fogs.
Also does anyone know what comes with the euro light wiring kit from Paragon?
#2
I believe the Paragon kit is to wire it how the factory had it - which isn't much.
I suggest wiring them the way the link shows. Much more control over your lights, which is always nice.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=34737
I suggest wiring them the way the link shows. Much more control over your lights, which is always nice.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=34737
#3
Cant believe i missed this thread, thanks for the link.
I am guessing i can also maybe duplicate the Paragon wiring kit with heavier wiring and relays...then simply connect that to the power lead off the lighting harness.
Now onto more important decisions, do i get the French amber driving lights or the regular clear ones.. ..decisions decisions.. .
I am guessing i can also maybe duplicate the Paragon wiring kit with heavier wiring and relays...then simply connect that to the power lead off the lighting harness.
Now onto more important decisions, do i get the French amber driving lights or the regular clear ones.. ..decisions decisions.. .
#4
Probably so. Nothing against Paragon, but you can build the same wiring kit better, yourself.
Are you talking about amber lenses? If so...I say nay! The only time those look good (to me) is if you have a car with the french license plates to match it.
Are you talking about amber lenses? If so...I say nay! The only time those look good (to me) is if you have a car with the french license plates to match it.
#7
Check this out:
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=29435
I made my own headlight harness using 10ga wires and a 4ga lead from the alternator. Its a beefier than the Rennbay one, but not quite as stout as the Iceshark one. I run either regular Hella 100/90 watt bulbs or the Yellowstar 130/100 watt ones. Needless to say, its VERY bright.....as in I think the xenons in my dads e39 5 series are crap whenever I drive it....
The Daniel Stern site has wiring diagrams for wiring relays. You don't need to buy a pre-made harness one to figure out how to do it.
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=29435
I made my own headlight harness using 10ga wires and a 4ga lead from the alternator. Its a beefier than the Rennbay one, but not quite as stout as the Iceshark one. I run either regular Hella 100/90 watt bulbs or the Yellowstar 130/100 watt ones. Needless to say, its VERY bright.....as in I think the xenons in my dads e39 5 series are crap whenever I drive it....
The Daniel Stern site has wiring diagrams for wiring relays. You don't need to buy a pre-made harness one to figure out how to do it.
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#9
My goal for wiring the driving lights is activate them through an extra fog light switch. I am planning on leaving the regular foglight operation / flash feature..so basically all i am doing is 'adding' the driving light capability to the car. I am not to concerned about having the driving light / high beam flash ability.
So by combining what washington951 wrote up about the subject matter (here) and going off the diagrams at Daniel Stern lighting, i came up with this..
EDIT : SEE POST #23 FOR CORRECT DIAGRAM
In my case, the line coming off the alternator is going to be replaced with the pig tail on IceShark's wire harness which is basically a 12v lead right off the alternator. I will still fuse it of course. I am pretty sure this should work.
The only thing i am not sure about is what pin # 5 on the switch is for. I am guessing this cuts out the fogs when the main high beams are switched on and i am thinking i should NOT bridge them together if i want the driving lights to stay on with the high beams.
The big reason for me doing it this way is to retain the factory wiring for the 55w fogs and use my own larger gauge wiring for the 100w fogs.
So by combining what washington951 wrote up about the subject matter (here) and going off the diagrams at Daniel Stern lighting, i came up with this..
EDIT : SEE POST #23 FOR CORRECT DIAGRAM
In my case, the line coming off the alternator is going to be replaced with the pig tail on IceShark's wire harness which is basically a 12v lead right off the alternator. I will still fuse it of course. I am pretty sure this should work.
The only thing i am not sure about is what pin # 5 on the switch is for. I am guessing this cuts out the fogs when the main high beams are switched on and i am thinking i should NOT bridge them together if i want the driving lights to stay on with the high beams.
The big reason for me doing it this way is to retain the factory wiring for the 55w fogs and use my own larger gauge wiring for the 100w fogs.
Last edited by Techno Duck; 05-04-2009 at 05:39 PM.
#10
Looks good. I desperately wanted to have complete control on every single light beam in the front of my car, but ran out of steam.
Will you be wiring them so you can turn on the fogs, driving, and heads whenever you want, in any combination?
Will you be wiring them so you can turn on the fogs, driving, and heads whenever you want, in any combination?
#11
Daniel Stern knows his sh_t because he's a good lighting engineer. He's is also extremely cooperative. Ask him any question about lighting and he'll tell you straight whether you like it or not.
#12
Okay i think i figured everything out how to wire everything. The way the wiring is setup in my first picture is mostly right with the exception of the switch layout which is pretty far off. Here is what i think is correct for the switches. I checked the factory wiring diagrams and piecing this together with the light wiring word document floating around, i am pretty sure this is correct...though dont take my word for it!
EDIT : SEE POST #23 FOR CORRECT DIAGRAM
The questionable area is pin 5. Pin 5 turns off the foglights when the high beams are on. I think you want to leave this disconnected on the extra switch if you want the driving light to stay on with the high beams.
So with the lights setup this way, the lights operate in this fashion...
1) Driving lights can only be turned on with the main light switch at position two or three. (IE side markers only on, or all exterior lights on).
2) Driving lights and fog lights can be turned on independently of each other (barring main light switch is in position two or three).
3) The fog lights will shut off with the high beams (if switched on)
4) Driving lights will stay on with the high beams (if switched on)
EDIT : SEE POST #23 FOR CORRECT DIAGRAM
The questionable area is pin 5. Pin 5 turns off the foglights when the high beams are on. I think you want to leave this disconnected on the extra switch if you want the driving light to stay on with the high beams.
So with the lights setup this way, the lights operate in this fashion...
1) Driving lights can only be turned on with the main light switch at position two or three. (IE side markers only on, or all exterior lights on).
2) Driving lights and fog lights can be turned on independently of each other (barring main light switch is in position two or three).
3) The fog lights will shut off with the high beams (if switched on)
4) Driving lights will stay on with the high beams (if switched on)
Last edited by Techno Duck; 05-04-2009 at 05:39 PM.
#14
Ballistic, i have not had time to test the wiring yet.
Im not exactly sure i understand what the problem your having is though. Are you saying the driving lights turn on with the fog lights no matter what position the driving light switch is in?
Im not exactly sure i understand what the problem your having is though. Are you saying the driving lights turn on with the fog lights no matter what position the driving light switch is in?
#15
this is my current set-up:
With my current set-up. My driving light ALWAYS stay on. The foglights still work properly. The dash light and indicator light are are working properly only when my rely wires are connected as shown in the picture.
I have a feeling the 12V inlet (6) is the problem. Will connecting both 12V inlet solve my problem?