Euro driving lights / fogs with IceShark's lighting harness
05-05-2009, 03:45 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Very simple, nothing even needs to be taken apart really with the exception of taking out the radio to access the switched 12v. Everything can be done on your back otherwise. The only wire that needs to be run through the firewall was the 12v feed for the alternator, only a 18gauge wire so its easy to snake it through. I ran the wire through the grommet right by the fuse box and through the firewall using another unused grommet.
I have been waiting for this explanation from someone who has done it for years. Thanks.
FWIW I always figured I would wire euro driving lights to turn on a) when the car is on but the headlights are off and b) with the high beams if the 2nd dash switch is on. This way they would function like daytime driving lights, making my car more visible. I"m sure this is just a matter of slightly different wiring.
05-05-2009, 05:25 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
The yellow wire is the 12v signal from the switch, to the relay and is the only wire that needs to go through the firewall. The rest of the wiring is from my wideband controller.
You can setup the driving lights to flash with the highbeams (with the headlights down) by splicing pin 5 of the original foglight switch to pin 5 of the 2nd foglight switch. This way the driving lights and fog lights will function the same way with the headlights down.
05-05-2009, 05:30 PM
#33
Not Special
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Jon, I stand corrected about my foglights. I was either thinking of my early 944 (where the fogs did stay on when the brights were on) or I was thinking of when I pulled the stalk instead of pushing it forward.
With the high beams on (not pulling back to flash the lights) my fogs do turn off. Fail. I'll have to find a 12v tap somewhere.
With the high beams on (not pulling back to flash the lights) my fogs do turn off. Fail. I'll have to find a 12v tap somewhere.
05-06-2009, 03:53 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
The yellow wire is the 12v signal from the switch, to the relay and is the only wire that needs to go through the firewall. The rest of the wiring is from my wideband controller.
You can setup the driving lights to flash with the highbeams (with the headlights down) by splicing pin 5 of the original foglight switch to pin 5 of the 2nd foglight switch. This way the driving lights and fog lights will function the same way with the headlights down.
You can setup the driving lights to flash with the highbeams (with the headlights down) by splicing pin 5 of the original foglight switch to pin 5 of the 2nd foglight switch. This way the driving lights and fog lights will function the same way with the headlights down.
08-02-2009, 07:22 PM
#35
Alright I am about to finally tackle this project. I have a couple questions.
I plan to wire so that the driving lights are always on, via switched power. I was going to use the additional foglight switch, but I think it would be good like most cars today, to have them on for visibility. Also less wiring
to deal with.
Any problems forseen by having the wired like this? I plan to use 10-12 guage coming off the alt to a relay.
I have the Euro lens, what are my options for the driving lights and fog lights,as far as manufactures/vendors , wattage and illumination colors. I would like alot of visiability, but I dont want to blind people. I have seen where some say 100 watt is too blinding and hard on wire and the lens. Is there something between 100 and 55w?
Thanks
Steve
I plan to wire so that the driving lights are always on, via switched power. I was going to use the additional foglight switch, but I think it would be good like most cars today, to have them on for visibility. Also less wiring
to deal with.Any problems forseen by having the wired like this? I plan to use 10-12 guage coming off the alt to a relay.
I have the Euro lens, what are my options for the driving lights and fog lights,as far as manufactures/vendors , wattage and illumination colors. I would like alot of visiability, but I dont want to blind people. I have seen where some say 100 watt is too blinding and hard on wire and the lens. Is there something between 100 and 55w?
Thanks
Steve
08-02-2009, 09:38 PM
#36
Nordschleife Master
