Ballistic-Chapman

I decided to remove all the wiring I did between the driving light and foglight switch. Will try to wire everything back up another day. How confident are you that your wireing diagram will work?

Also, my interior lights (heater/ac) and regular US foglights no longer work. Any idea what I blew?

Techno Duck

Like i said, im pretty sure what i posted should work but honestly im not really sure. It was my best guess after piecing together the info in the thread i linked to, looking at the wiring diagram and running off a relay based schematic from Daniel Stern Lighting.

I have the headlight wiring hooked up but have not had time to setup the wiring for the driving lights. Where are you getting the 12v for the extra fog light switch?

Ballistic-Chapman

This is the kit I purshased: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN:IT&ih=003

I can get the kit to work no problem if I use the on/off switch it comes with and wire the 12v to a fuse in the fuse box.

In your picture, your #30 on the relay goes to the alternator, mine goes to the battery.

Techno Duck

Wiring it to the battery and alternator will have the same effect.

The only pins on the fog light switch you need be concerned with to get the driving lights working are pin 6 and pin 2. With the switch closed, the connection between pin 6 and pin 2 is completed and you will get the 12v signal to the relay. When the relay gets the signal, it closes and allows 12v through the relay (from the battery or alternator) to the driving lights.

You can get the 12v feed to pin 6 from anywhere on the car that gets 12v.. i just decided for simplicity sake to take it off the original switches harness.

This is all assuming the pin layout for the switch i posted and referenced from the earlier thread is correct..which im pretty sure it is. The best way to check this i think is the following..

-Run 12v lead from battery directly to pin 86 on relay.
-12v feed wire from pin 87 on relay to positive of driving light (remember to ground driving light to chassis also)
-Pin 85 of relay grounded to chassis
-Run 12v lead from battery directly to pin 30 on relay
-Pin 86 of relay to pin 2 of switch

Flipping the switch should turn on the driving lights now. Make sure you fuse the 12v lead between the battery / alternator to pin 30 on the relay! And for good measure i would fuse the 12v feed for the switch also.

If your scared about testing this on the car, test if with the battery completley disconnected from the car. Also you can test the other pin layouts on the switch using this method. Grounding pin 1 and running a 12v feed to pin 3 should turn on the backlight. With pin 1 still grounded, a 12v to pin 4 should light up the green indicator light when the switch is closed.

Mind you again, this is all (dare i say educated) guessing based on the information in the thread i linked to earlier and going off the diagrams listed on Daniel Stern Lighting and the factory manual.

BTW, i got a C+ in Electrical Engineering 1.... . EE2 isnt going much better right now.. .

Wipeout

Sorry to bump this thread up from the dark, dark, past, but did you ever get this all wired up Jon?

Asking because the S2 should be getting some euro fogs soon and this is, essentially, exactly how I want to get it hooked up.

Techno Duck

Never did have a chance to wire it up. Robby is currently working on something that has basically the same switch function (seperate fog switch activates driving light). He said he was going to try and get it wired up this past weekend, not sure how he made out on it. I actually just installed the headlight harness finally on sunday. Im waiting to see what luck Robby has as i think he had all the wiring all figured out already, mine was educated guesswork at best.

Wipeout

Sweet. I'll keep my eyes peeled, as I'd love to get mine all wired up. Hopefully he's writing instructions and taking photos!

Techno Duck

More than a year later i finally got around to hooking up these lights. Basically i am using a spare fog light switch and relays to put the driving lights on a completley seperate circuit from the headlights / fog lights. The lights are setup so they will only come on with switched 12v, so they will turn off regardless when the key is removed.

The factory switch works exactly as it should, that includes the backlit dash lights and green indicator LED.

Here is the wiring diagram..



I do not have any pictures from the install really, but here are some specific points..

1) I mounted the relay right under the expansion tank where there is a bracket with 3 studs on the wheel well arch, this bracket is normally for the 16v cars ignition module. The three studs were perfect as i mounted the high beam and low beam relays from IceSharks harness on there and now the driving light relay also.

2) My 12v switched source for the switch was the radio circuit. I just tapped off the power line

3) My 12v feed for the relay was the pigtail off IceShark's wire harness. You can achieve the same thing by running a seperate wire to the positive lug on the back of the alternator.

4) For the switch wiring i used i believe 18gauge wire.. its the same wire gauge as used by the factory wiring harness. For the wiring coming off Icesharks 12v pigtail (which is 10ga), i spliced 12ga wire to a 30amp inline fuse, to the relay, then to the lights. So basically all wires for the power circuit of the driving lights are 12ga, including the ground wires.

5) I ran the ground wires from the driving lights directly to the frame rails on each side of the car.

MAKE SURE YOU USE AN INLINE FUSE BETWEEN RELAY AND 12V POWER SOURCE!!!!!

I only have 55w bulbs in at the moment and they are pretty darn bright.. cant wait to put the 100w bulbs in. With the 55w fogs, 100w driving lights and 100w head lights on i will be pumping out some 500w of lighting power.. .

BTW, here is how i tested this all out to make sure it worked before hooking up to the car.. i did not want to make my wire harness extra crispy . Creative use of 2 extra foglight bulbs, a dozen or so alligator test leads, battery charger and two extra foglight switches...

PEvans

How difficult was it to wire up the spare light switch in the dash (including running new wire through the firewall if you had to do that)

ELLSSUU

Thanks Techno. Subscribing to follow your path as soon as I find a extra fog light switch.

Techno Duck

Very simple, nothing even needs to be taken apart really with the exception of taking out the radio to access the switched 12v. Everything can be done on your back otherwise. The only wire that needs to be run through the firewall was the 12v feed for the alternator, only a 18gauge wire so its easy to snake it through. I ran the wire through the grommet right by the fuse box and through the firewall using another unused grommet.

Wipeout

Alternatively, you could probably tap into the 12v in on the existing switch, assuming you wanted your parking lights to be on when running the driving lights.

Techno Duck

The problem with tapping into the existing switch is that the driving lights would cutout when you use the highbeams.. basically they would operate the same way as the fog lights.

Wipeout

Only if you wire in pin 5, I thought. I'd have to go and take a look, but my fogs do not cut off when the high beams are activated.

Techno Duck

All pin 5 is for is to give the foglight circuit 12v when the headlights are shut so they flash when you pull the highbeam stalk.