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Tilton Pedal Box

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Old 11-22-2009, 02:16 PM
  #31  
95ONE
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Originally Posted by 968ls1
I have a firewall mount with 3/4" AP master cylinders front and rear with a balance bar; it looks like the system Kokeln used to sell. I use modified 951 turbo S front calipers with Stop Tech 14" rotors and 993 rear calipers with factory 968 rotors that have been slotted. This set up work great but it took some time to get it dialed in. If my car was not a street/DE car; I would have hung a Tilton set up and have deal with the tight fit under the hood. I have an LS1 in my car and used a Tilton 7/8" master cylinder on the clutch, the factory 19mm made it difficult to get into 1st gear and reverse so I went for a little more volume and now it works perfect.

Great info on the Clutch Master cylinder. Are you using the stock Clutch pedal? and is the throw on the clutch pedal shorter now? Im looking for shorter.
Old 11-22-2009, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by evil 944t
I have seen many floor mount assemblies work just fine. The only real issue is that you use up valuable space, unless of course you move your seat further back, hint, hint. In a track car, it works great.
Actually, space isn't that valuable to me.. My legs are pretty short for my height and Im only 5'8" But yes, definitely, the seat is pushed back also to help weight balance.

I've pushed on a lot of the stock 911 floor mounts and one Tilton floor mount. I'm sure they work fine, but the pedals feel like they're "walking" away from me when I push them down. And from someone with short legs, I don't really like it. (I did this after a suggestion from Pro Technik)
Old 11-22-2009, 06:58 PM
  #33  
968ls1
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I am running a stock clutch pedal; the throw isn't shorter but I don't have to press the clutch as far toget it to release. You could go larger than 7/8 but would have to make sure it would not over extend the T/O bearing. I am using AP corvette hydraulic T/O bearing.
Old 11-22-2009, 07:26 PM
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gt37vgt
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if you go from 19mm to 7/8 (its+15%) on the clutch master to push a standard 951 clutch the throw will defiantly be shorter and a heavier pedal .. BUt yeh as he said take card to not over extend the slave perhaps a stop bock under the pedal
Old 11-22-2009, 07:33 PM
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Good information.. I guess Ill start with a 7/8" master for the clutch and see if I like it.. The clutch pedal on the Tilton overhung has a stopper screw for just that purpose. Now, to see what Tilton suggests on my brake master Cylinder set up. Waiting not so patiently for that reply.
Old 06-28-2011, 02:31 AM
  #36  
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Super ancient thread revival! Kapwinggg!

I'm looking into this now - driving RHD, on stock early NA brakes.

The aim is primarily to get rid of the bulky booster and master cylinder for ITB's. A plus is ditching the weight associated with having a linkage run across the car to the LHD position.

So - reading through this there's some talk of bracing for the floor mount or top hung pedals. The RHD cars are unique in that they have a bolt in steel box that hangs the pivot for the brake and clutch from the firewall. This could be used to brace the floor mount unit from Tilton, or to mount a bracket for overhung pedals. For rigidity, anchoring the floor mount, and bracing against flexion back to the firewall seems like a good option.

There's also a Willwood reverse mount option I'm looking at;



That could be mounted on a steel bracket from the RHD position with compact cylinders, and remote reservoirs.

Anyone used this Willwood setup? Or any of the original posters got some feedback on going to manual brakes, master cylinder sizes?
Old 06-28-2011, 06:37 AM
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333pg333
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Originally Posted by evil 944t
I have seen many floor mount assemblies work just fine. The only real issue is that you use up valuable space, unless of course you move your seat further back, hint, hint. In a track car, it works great.
Doing exactly this. I guess it won't take long to get used to the floor mount motion.
Old 06-29-2011, 07:27 AM
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Righto - worked out that the steering column interferes with the firewall mount on the RHD car anyhow. Will mount 2 pedal floor mounts to a steel plate bolted to the floor, braced against the firewall. The car is "clubsport" at the moment - so no front cage bar to brace on.

I'm going to spec a big master cylinder for the front, size down for the rear - to be confirmed exactly what size. Don't want to start out with too little braking force.

It might seem like overkill - but to move the booster out of the way, everything else seemed like a half measure. Do it once, do it right.
Old 06-29-2011, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 60Driver
There you go.
Thats the Australian model



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