No start after turbo install
08-22-2007, 05:28 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 2,254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I tried a good DME relay, that isn't it. I am about to check for sure if it is getting fuel/spark here but still nothing. I do notice even after letting the charger sit on it all night it cranks on the slower side.
08-22-2007, 05:56 PM
#19
Pro
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Kihei, Hawaii
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-22-2007, 06:25 PM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 2,254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I am getting a spark but I just tried to shake the S and R sensor wires but I noticed before and after that the tach doens't move, only to like 100-200 RPM as I am cranking that is it.
08-22-2007, 07:24 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 2,254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have them loose now but they won't come out, so I sprayed them with engine cleaner and will let sit. I will have to check for sure as well about spark. Also, I replaced the plugs too because they needed them anyways. Looks like I will need to replace the clutch master cyl. and slave as well. It has been giving me a problem slowly and now the pedal will only come up half way. So I already ordered the parts to replace. This list keeps getting longer and longer!
08-23-2007, 01:38 PM
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 2,254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I get the ref/speed sensor out, should I just replace or clean them and try again? I think my speed sensor is dirty because the top of it where the bolt holds it on has LOTS of crap on top. I am stuck right now with having the bolt out but it won't come out, so I sprayed it with engine degreaser and let it sit over night.
10-02-2007, 02:12 AM
#26
Michelle, are you getting tach bounce when you try to start it?
Regards,
Regards,
10-02-2007, 02:19 AM
#27
Drifting
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Phila.
Posts: 2,290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Firstly, make sure your battery is fully charged before performing these tests.
Check to make sure you have battery voltage at terminal 1 and 15 at the coil while cranking (put your positive lead on 1 and 15, separately of course, and ground to the battery). If so, this verifies that your ignition switch is working and that your DME is working as well.
There are 3 wires inside each loom of the speed and reference sensor harness, so 6 wires total. They get so brittle over time near the actual female connector in the engine compartment that you most likely broke a few just by moving the harness a little bit while performing your work. The sensors are most likely good, all you have to do is do a resistance check on each on as per clarks garage instructions. If they pass, then you must check for greater than 2.5 volts going to the DME while cranking. I forget exactly which pins you check, someone with the factory service manual can tell you, if no one replies I'll be with my manual tomorrow to tell you exactly which pins. You must take the cover off the harness connector on the DME to do this. That will tell you if your speed and reference sensor harness has a break in the circuit. If it does, then take a razor blade and cut back the rubber cover near the harness plug in the engine compartment (depending on your test, only one harness might be the problem and the other might be ok), most likely the break is within a few inches of the plug.
Check to make sure you have battery voltage at terminal 1 and 15 at the coil while cranking (put your positive lead on 1 and 15, separately of course, and ground to the battery). If so, this verifies that your ignition switch is working and that your DME is working as well.
There are 3 wires inside each loom of the speed and reference sensor harness, so 6 wires total. They get so brittle over time near the actual female connector in the engine compartment that you most likely broke a few just by moving the harness a little bit while performing your work. The sensors are most likely good, all you have to do is do a resistance check on each on as per clarks garage instructions. If they pass, then you must check for greater than 2.5 volts going to the DME while cranking. I forget exactly which pins you check, someone with the factory service manual can tell you, if no one replies I'll be with my manual tomorrow to tell you exactly which pins. You must take the cover off the harness connector on the DME to do this. That will tell you if your speed and reference sensor harness has a break in the circuit. If it does, then take a razor blade and cut back the rubber cover near the harness plug in the engine compartment (depending on your test, only one harness might be the problem and the other might be ok), most likely the break is within a few inches of the plug.
10-02-2007, 11:31 AM
#28
Jane Bond 007
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
My reference sensors are new - they have less than 1000 miles on them. I will try to test the coil again. I did the impedance test, but not the one you mentioned. I'll try that tonight.
Scott - yeah, the tach bounces. The ONLY good thing in this mess.
Scott - yeah, the tach bounces. The ONLY good thing in this mess.
10-02-2007, 05:06 PM
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 2,254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well Michelle, I did find out what it was and got my car dynoed. I flip the ref and speed sensor when reinstall the manifold, flip them back and rooomm started RIGHT up.
