JE_951

mine is a non-s 88'. so yes I have the 26/6. I also have a couple friends with 26/6's that are holding 15-16psi everyday.

95ONE

i stand corrected. funny. I've seen alot of people state that the "S" can hardly make that power.

A few people were surprised at my 258hp # wheels without custom intercooler set up. K26/6. read NUMEROUS posts about boost dying off to 12-13psi at upper Rpms. Verified by my own experiences... Soooooo. maybe you guys are the exception? (porshhhhhh951) exceptionally low miles.?

But Clearly I was wrong in previous post. Awesome. Good to know people are making that kind of power on that turbo. I guess 21 years of wear can hurt a turbo after a while?

JE_951

mine has 175k miles... not really a "fresh" engine. But sure does run well!

Im doing head work (extrude honed, 45mm valves etc..), got my MAF, mafterburner, injectors, tial 38, and catback, and am going to see what my 26/6 will do... Once I have those numbers I will do turbo upgrade. This should be about what the 26/6 can do tq/hp wise w/o going REALLY exotic.

But back on topic...

Tyro: you have a boost leak somewhere or maybe your turbo needs a rebuild? I would contact russel (or vendor you bought from) and find out what chips you have and what FPR you should be running. That kind of a/f is what lead my car to a headgasket failure. Are you running single or dual port with your tial? more boost will help your problem, but I sitll think you have a boost leak...

eclou

I got 260 rwhp/300 ft lbs with a 26/6 but it took 17# boost, MAF, Tial, and full 3" exhaust. No matter how much more boost I dialed, I could never get more peak HP but could get more tq.

tyro

I guess I'll try the Arnnworx method of boost testing. Can't hurt anything. How big of a leak do you think we're talking about here?

Turbo was rebuilt by Lindsey's guy over the past winter.

Dual port setup with a Lindsey black ****. Bosch 3 bar FPR.

I have some questions regarding the chip burn, I bought them through - you guessed it - Lindsey racing.

JE_951

probably a small leak. IF you dont have their vac kit then you might as well buy it $40 well spent. Then loosen all clams on intercooler pipes and j-boot adn replace those old rusty things. then visualy inspect all lines/fittings.

If its rebuilt then you should have no problem running 15psi across the board...


I origianly had 251hp/313tq at the wheels at 19psi with exhaust, chip, shimmed wastegate, and k&n drop-in.

when I did the tial 38, MAF, Mafterburner I had 273rwhp/293rwtq at 15psi. Im guessing if I turned up the boost to 19psi I would have seen 325rwtq and 285rwhp. I could hold up to 16psi at redline so I think my hp would have still climbed a little...IAT would have climbed though so im not sure how that would have effected power...

porshhhh951

my motor still only has about 34k on it since full rebuild and everything was replaced so that might have something to do with why it runs so strongly. It hardly ever gets driven and im trying to figure out what to do with it.

JE_951

you could donate it to me...

tyro

I have replaced most everything rubber as it was shot. I'm going to pick up a throttle body reseal kit as that's about the only thing that hasn't been looked at.

Funny thing is, I don't feel TOO bad about the number, considering a Dodge Ram SRT-10 "viper truck" pulled 420whp on this same day.

Oddjob

Jess,

Was the SRT-10 modded at all, or bone stock? Stock they are rated at 500 bhp. So, if it pulled 420 at the wheels, thats a 16% driveline loss and dyno calibration (if we assume that the 500 factory number is close to actual). That seems very good (pretty low loss for a big pickup truck trans, u-joint drive-line), I would have guessed closer to 20+%. And it doesnt really indicate that the dyno is extremely conservative.

If we use a 16% loss (your actual driveline loss will be different than the pickup) on your pulls would be 209 bhp originally, and 261 bhp after the upgrades. Your original boost level seems like it was about a psi low. So, either the dyno gage is reading a little low, or your motor/turbo were tired. And 209 bhp is probably ballpark for a higher mileage engine not making full/peak boost #s.

Your peak power on the last dyno run (approx 220 rwhp at 5500 rpm) was made at approx 12.0 psi boost . So obviously, if there is a way to hold the boost in the higher rev range, the torque will not drop off as much, and the power will increase proportionally.

Your AFM looks a lot like what I was seeing with Autothority chips. Rich in the midrange then leaning out at higher rpm. My MAX chips also seem to have a slight dip in the mid range, but not as severe as the APE chips. Definitely compare the dyno A/F to what you are seeing with your wide-band. Did the dyno shop clamp an A/F O2 sensor into your tail pipe?

Since I am still getting a very similar boost drop off, we really need to determine is if there is something wrong with the systems, or if that is all that these turbos are capable of with the factory AFM/DME setups, and mechanical boost controlled systems....

tyro

SRT-10 was stock, so your calculations are probably accurate.

Shop clamped their sensor in, and it was fine all day (20 cars went through).

I will guess that maintaining the proper AFR is important to make full boost in the upper range.

I'm not sure if anyone on this thread who mentions flat boost is using the stock AFM and intake tract.

Need to get a MAF?

Oddjob

My boost curve wasnt affected with varying the A/F anywhere from mid 9's to low 12's, neither were EGTs. Throttle response goes off, and there is likely some loss of power (but a small %, maybe just a few hp) as it goes richer.

nize

i have also held 16psi boost with the k26/6 to redline on an 88 with all stock intake, original motor and factory parts with +170k miles on it.

something is definitely wrong with your turbo, wastegate, exhaust, intake, or all of the above.

tyro

Wonderful. Where's the 944-kicking smiley?

black944 turbo

Jess, that is a Mustang dyno, correct? If so those numbers are pretty good. Mine did 221 on a mustang with a maf kit and did 246 on a dyno dynamics, same setup and running way to rich the second go around.