HELP!! Car running terrible after new vac. lines and venturi delete
05-15-2007, 03:36 PM
#31
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Here is a quick video I took. I know its not the best quality and most of the sounds are just noise. But if you listen carefully from 35-41 seconds, you can hear when I rev the motor is seems like a real rough stutter.
05-15-2007, 03:48 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by Ski
with all the zip ties, KLR included, I have a suggestion:
go to the store and get some vac plugs about the size of your lines. Plug the port on the banjo bolt to the boost controller (verify your allen plugs are tight BTW), plug the port to the KLR off the manifold, plug the port off the main brake booster line that you have going to the check valve. Hook up the vac lines to the FPR, dampner, and BOV. Hook up the lined to the TB to thermo valve and thermo valve to black/white diaphram. See if it will run, if it does, then add another system to it. Not sure whose kit you bought, but if from LR, there lines will fit over the barb on the banjo bolt, a little silicone spray works well.
You wires on your distributor are:
42
31
and your engine from front to back 1 2 3 4? Just checking. Someone recently hooked up their spark plug wires with the numbers on the cam tower from front to back.
go to the store and get some vac plugs about the size of your lines. Plug the port on the banjo bolt to the boost controller (verify your allen plugs are tight BTW), plug the port to the KLR off the manifold, plug the port off the main brake booster line that you have going to the check valve. Hook up the vac lines to the FPR, dampner, and BOV. Hook up the lined to the TB to thermo valve and thermo valve to black/white diaphram. See if it will run, if it does, then add another system to it. Not sure whose kit you bought, but if from LR, there lines will fit over the barb on the banjo bolt, a little silicone spray works well.
You wires on your distributor are:
42
31
and your engine from front to back 1 2 3 4? Just checking. Someone recently hooked up their spark plug wires with the numbers on the cam tower from front to back.
So if I do that, and the car does not run, does that mean the problem was with the disconnected system or one of the systems that is still connected?
05-15-2007, 03:52 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Ski
You wires on your distributor are:
42
31
and your engine from front to back 1 2 3 4? Just checking. Someone recently hooked up their spark plug wires with the numbers on the cam tower from front to back.
42
31
and your engine from front to back 1 2 3 4? Just checking. Someone recently hooked up their spark plug wires with the numbers on the cam tower from front to back.
05-15-2007, 04:52 PM
#35
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It would just barely start and die.
I think you have a leak somewhere. When you put the intake back on, did it sit down nice and flat on the head, did all the supporting bolt fall into there guide underneath - front bolt off heat shield, dip stick, and the black bracket by the AOS? I would hook up my fuel system to the intake and plug the rest, see if the car starts. Please don't take offense, but all the connections, with the tie wraps, just doesn't look too "leak free" with some of the vac lines joining other lines. Also, the large hose to the TB from the intercooler pipe has gotten all of us before at one point or the other, it's gotten me, for not being as tight as it should be.
I think you have a leak somewhere. When you put the intake back on, did it sit down nice and flat on the head, did all the supporting bolt fall into there guide underneath - front bolt off heat shield, dip stick, and the black bracket by the AOS? I would hook up my fuel system to the intake and plug the rest, see if the car starts. Please don't take offense, but all the connections, with the tie wraps, just doesn't look too "leak free" with some of the vac lines joining other lines. Also, the large hose to the TB from the intercooler pipe has gotten all of us before at one point or the other, it's gotten me, for not being as tight as it should be.
05-15-2007, 05:01 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by Ski
It would just barely start and die.
I think you have a leak somewhere. When you put the intake back on, did it sit down nice and flat on the head, did all the supporting bolt fall into there guide underneath - front bolt off heat shield, dip stick, and the black bracket by the AOS? I would hook up my fuel system to the intake and plug the rest, see if the car starts. Please don't take offense, but all the connections, with the tie wraps, just doesn't look too "leak free" with some of the vac lines joining other lines. Also, the large hose to the TB from the intercooler pipe has gotten all of us before at one point or the other, it's gotten me, for not being as tight as it should be.
I think you have a leak somewhere. When you put the intake back on, did it sit down nice and flat on the head, did all the supporting bolt fall into there guide underneath - front bolt off heat shield, dip stick, and the black bracket by the AOS? I would hook up my fuel system to the intake and plug the rest, see if the car starts. Please don't take offense, but all the connections, with the tie wraps, just doesn't look too "leak free" with some of the vac lines joining other lines. Also, the large hose to the TB from the intercooler pipe has gotten all of us before at one point or the other, it's gotten me, for not being as tight as it should be.
All the bolts lined up just fine and the manifold appears to be sitting down just as it should. Had no problem lining up the 8 manifold bolts and all the supporting brackets easily fell into place.
I understand plugging everything but the fuel system, but if the car starts and dies, or does not start at all, I'm confused what that is telling me.
Just a guess, but if the car does not start at all is that showing the leak is somewhere in my fuel system vac. lines?
05-15-2007, 05:12 PM
#37
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If it does not start, then hook up the KLR line but it should start without that. First thing though, the hose to the BOV, take that off at the fuel dampner, just try sucking on that to see if you can, you should not be able too but if you can suck air, your BOV is gone.
If the car starts and idles well, you've got a leak somewhere else in the system.
If the car starts and idles well, you've got a leak somewhere else in the system.
05-15-2007, 05:53 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
A number of the diagrams that are kicking around on Rennlist now are modified versions of the original diagram I produced and are missing various details. Here is the original vacuum diagram which did show the connections to the brake booster etc. For what its worth the modified diagrams generally show signs of rough editing in a paint/photoshop program. The diagrams I made for Rennlist are jpegs from the original 'artwork' which I don't distribute so the image quality is a bit clearer.
05-15-2007, 05:58 PM
#39
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Ok just tried your test Ski, heres what happened.
I could not suck anything out of the bypass valve, so its fine.
I plugged these three fittings, leaving just the fuel system vac. lines attached.
So I turned the key, the car just started but died immediately. Probably like a second after it cranked up it died. I tried to turn the key again and it would not start.
So does this mean my vac. leak is somewhere with the fuel system lines that are currently attached?
I could not suck anything out of the bypass valve, so its fine.
I plugged these three fittings, leaving just the fuel system vac. lines attached.
So I turned the key, the car just started but died immediately. Probably like a second after it cranked up it died. I tried to turn the key again and it would not start.
So does this mean my vac. leak is somewhere with the fuel system lines that are currently attached?
05-15-2007, 06:11 PM
#41
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Ok, hooked up the KLR line and the car wont even start. It seemed like it wanted to the first time I tried, but just kinda died out before it could really get a chance to fire. Second time I tired it was just cranking like it was after it fired up the first time with the fuel system attached.
05-15-2007, 07:08 PM
#42
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This reminds me of the first time WAAAYYY back when I did mine. Hook into the fuel recover pc, hook into the intercooler pipe for your wastegate. Do you have the TB plugged off or the connections to the thermal valve hooked up?
You might want to put a battery charger on the car too just in case. Being paged, it's going to be a long night out here.
You might want to put a battery charger on the car too just in case. Being paged, it's going to be a long night out here.
05-15-2007, 07:41 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by Ski
This reminds me of the first time WAAAYYY back when I did mine. Hook into the fuel recover pc, hook into the intercooler pipe for your wastegate. Do you have the TB plugged off or the connections to the thermal valve hooked up?
You might want to put a battery charger on the car too just in case. Being paged, it's going to be a long night out here.
You might want to put a battery charger on the car too just in case. Being paged, it's going to be a long night out here.
The thermal valve is the thing right by where the Cycling Valve used to sit that has the two prongs sticking up correct? I have a line running from one of the prongs to the fitting underneath the throttle body, and the other prong running straight to the big black/white diaphram on the fuel vapor purge.
Im confused where to go from here though, I hooked the KLR line back up and the car did not run. So does this mean I have a leak in one of the systems that is hooked up, or in one of the unconnected systems?
Again, I apologize if I'm making you go over things again and again, I just wanna make sure I understand whats happening before I mess the car up because I'm misunderstanding something.
05-15-2007, 07:49 PM
#44
I think someone already mentioned this but I would make sure the TPS and throttle stop are set correctly, although I doubt any of that was messed with when you removed your intake/TB combo.
I would also try and loosen the idle adjustment screw on top of the Throttle body. You may be "choking" it. I had mine way too tight once and the car would barely idle. Maybe you had a vacuum leak before that was letting it run fine but since you put in new lines you may need to go back and adjust that screw.
I would also try and loosen the idle adjustment screw on top of the Throttle body. You may be "choking" it. I had mine way too tight once and the car would barely idle. Maybe you had a vacuum leak before that was letting it run fine but since you put in new lines you may need to go back and adjust that screw.
05-15-2007, 08:25 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by mclarenno9
I think someone already mentioned this but I would make sure the TPS and throttle stop are set correctly, although I doubt any of that was messed with when you removed your intake/TB combo.
I would also try and loosen the idle adjustment screw on top of the Throttle body. You may be "choking" it. I had mine way too tight once and the car would barely idle. Maybe you had a vacuum leak before that was letting it run fine but since you put in new lines you may need to go back and adjust that screw.
I would also try and loosen the idle adjustment screw on top of the Throttle body. You may be "choking" it. I had mine way too tight once and the car would barely idle. Maybe you had a vacuum leak before that was letting it run fine but since you put in new lines you may need to go back and adjust that screw.
Ok well I just messed with the idle adjustment screw and that didnt seem to help at all.
For the TPS I just plugged it back in, and the throttle stop is set correctly I believe. It makes a slight click when I open the throttle slightly, which is the sign its set correctly.