mnmike

I have the autothority stage II chips in my car but Ive been reading that using a manual boost controller is a bad idea. I have a tial 38mm wastegate with .8 bar spring in dual port mode and the lindsey manual boost controller. I seem to hit overboost still around 14-15 psi. I tried their banjo bolt at first but it was boosting a lot more. Do I need to use their banjo bolt?

edit: after a lot of reading Im pretty sure the autothority chips are a bad option even though they were dirt cheap. With my setup (tial wastegate in dual port mode, lindsey manual boost controller) and soon to come an intake and full exhaust, which chip should I go with to not hit overboost and ideally run around 13-15 psi?

bunch

You need 951max chips. I would remove the MBC and use the banjobolt with autothority. Or If you want to use your MCB bypass you cv and drop the banjobolt

mnmike

by removing the mbc should I just connect those two hoses that are going to it, or get rid of the T going to the mbc and block the other mbc line?

bunch

Yes just connect but check if the cv was allready removed by PO

bunch

If it is use better chips

mnmike

for the 951max chips it sounds like the only other thing I need is a 3 bar fpr correct? (in addition to the exhaust im soon getting)

rberry951

If you get the 951MAX chips you need a 3.0 bar fuel pressure regulator, they're about 60 bucks available several places. You already have an upgraded wastegate and boost controller. I recommend bypassing the CV with any manual boost controller. Bigger exhaust will help a lot. Also you want to get they jetted banjo bolt out of the car.

You can also save some bucks by trading in your old chips with Lindsey Racing.

Regards,
Russell

mnmike

What do you guys mean by bypassing the cv? The previous owner did the venturi delete kit if that has anything to do with it? Ive also checked out the boost enhancer on lindsey racing, that would work with my mods still correct?

rberry951

Have a look at this:

http://forums.maxhpkit.com/viewtopic.php?t=17

Regards,
Russell

mnmike

got it, previous owner did delete it, I just ordered the fpr and chips from lindsey!

Andy

There is nothing wrong with a manual boost controller and Autothority chips. The chips don't know any different and the whole system functions better with consistant boost. The banjo bolt and cycling valve do not supply consistant boost. The only thing you have to make sure of is not running more boost than your chips and injectors can handle, especially near redline, it's always best to try that out on a dyno with air/fuel ratio monitoring.

Meine44

Reviving an old post here, but does anyone have a procedure for removing the cycling valve?


I am most concerned with how others have blocked off the electrical connections to the valve without causing a short. How do the wires get eliminated?

mahoney944

The jet inside the banjo bolt unscrews, at least mine did. just remove the jet screw inside the banjo bolt and use the banjo bolt without it

Meine44

Sorry, I should clarify. I am interested in the procedure to remove the factory cycling valve located under the intake manifold.


I can take a banjo bolt out, but that isn't the issue here.

Sixline

You just leave the wires under there. If you get a MAF kit you can use the plug for switched power. If you are worried about shorting just put a piece of heat shrink over the plastic plug.

Install your manual or electronic boost controller between the line that goes to the wastegate and the line that goes to the intercooler pipe. The line that goes to the J-boot gets blocked off.