Teddy952

I have a broken exhaust stud and it is leaking too much to "get by". I need to use an easy out to get the broken stud out. Any recommendations from someone who has done this in the past? Also, should I replace all the studs or just deal with the broken one? I may just deal with the broken one I don't know what is involved with the removal of the 'good' ones.

thanks

jakery

In my experiences, you really want a direct shot with the drill & the extractor.

I wonder if it wouldn't be over kill to remove the head, to reduce the risk of further damaging the head.

I would say at the least, remove the headers, loosen the engine mounts and lift the engine a bit on the exhaust side, just so you have more room to work.

Use good drill bits. and buy a few so you can keep a sharp bite into the stud.
I had the idea to use counter-clockwise drill bits, but the ones i finally found through harbor freight were VERY cheap and dulled instantly.
Use lots of PB penetrating oil on the stud before you attemt to extract it, maybe even let the oil soak in overnight.
With luck your stud will come right out.
If that didn't work you may want to apply heat.


It took me about 30 mins of drilling to get a hole large enough to extract with.

sharky47

Removing the head is a pain, but the *best* way to do it.

Buy good left-hand drill bits, many times you don't even need the extractor with the reverse bit.

Unbroken ones are easy to get out - take two 13mm plain nuts and tighten the crap out of them against eachother. Then use the lower one to spin the stud out of it's hole. I do manufacture nicer exhaust studs, check out my website www.rennspeedracing.com



BTW, I dig your avatar - that game scared the crap outta me.........

Teddy952

AHHH yes... Shodan can be a very creepy gal indeed! One of the best, if not the best, games I have EVER played and I have played a lot!!

I have no problem pulling the head so all work will be done on a bench. Ill get some good easy outs and see how the extraction goes. I like your stainless steel studs. If I decide to go with all eight Ill contact you.

My only concern is removing the broken one. Once I get the head off Ill let the broken stud soak overnight in some PB Blaster. What is the installation proceedure of exhaust studs?

sharky47

I am glad you are willing to pull the head, I hate it when people try to take the shortcuts and end up with a bigger nastier job than if they had just done it right.......

Anyway, it shouldn't be that big of a deal with the head on the bench. I would really reccommend the left-hand drill, half the time when I am extracting a broken fastener - the left hand drill gets it out. Clean the threaded holes out really well with some brake cleaner or B-12 or something like that. Use loctite 262 or 271 and put the new studs in - if your using "regualar" studs, then use the double-nut method. If your using my broached ones, then a 1/8 allen wrench will be all you need.

Teddy952

"if your using "regualar" studs, then use the double-nut method"

What is the dbl-nut method? Would be putting the locktight on the threads and using the dlb-nut to screw the stud into the head?

billindenver

Remove the headers, get/borrow/steal one of these:

http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?a...38&Category=10

Using a mirror you can drill a hole in the stud and back it out with a back out. I've done this, took maybe 30 min but then I already have the drill (I build airplanes as a hobby). If the stud broke off ragged instead of flat...you may have some difficulty centering your hole. If you are careful and reasonably mechanically inclined it can be done with the head in place.

hosrom_951

Man, i hate doing this.........

I get so scared from screw extrators, since they grap on so tight, and it feels like they are about to break off. Once an extractor breaks...........it's almost impossible to remove.

I vote for a 90 degree angle drill adapter and left handed drill bits.

Teddy952

Thanks for all the suggestions but the head is coming out. I have done a HG before and I have no problem doing it again.
Due to the sensitive nature of this job I want to be comfortable and have plenty of lighting. Ill get some left handed drill bits too. You guys seem to have better luck with them over the easy outs.

billindenver

Double nutted means you use two nuts on the same stud. With two wrenches you turn one tighter and the other looser very tight until the two nuts lock together (pushing against each other). That bites on the stud such that turning the lower nut pushes against the upper nut and turns the stud. If that makes any sense. Basically you are locking the nuts together and forcing them to turn the stud out.

Teddy952

billindenver -- got it! thanks!

facboy

getting back on topic :P - is that system shock 1 or 2? i enjoyed both, but i felt that 1 was better overall (passage of time and technology notwithstanding).

sharky47

Looks like 2

I wasn't around for 1, was before my time - 2 was awesome though!

Teddy952

The avatar is from SS2. I tried to play SS1 but could not get used to the controls and got frustrated. I kinda like the way both of these games remain in a cult classic state. SS2 came out when Half Life 1 was around. HL1 overshadowed it and SS2 didn't get the proper exposer it deserved.

I MAKE my gaming friend play it. They all have the same argument that they don't want to play an 8 year old game. As soon as they start SS2 they don't stop until its finished and they all say what sharky47 said....

"that game scared the crap outta me........."


Silence the discord...........

gregeast

No personal experience but I believe some have used a torch to heat up the stud and the threads it's attached to. Don't know if that helps because the steel in the stud and the aluminum in the head expand at different rates or if it helps loosen the thread lock.

Feel free to correct me if anyone has direct experience!