AlexE

I would place a nut on the end of the broken stud..........and weld it on.

Now you have grip.

Give it a tap with a hammer to shock the stud.........and out she goes..

Acetylene

If you have the head out, take it to a machine shop and have them EMD it. It costs like $30 - probably the same price as the drill bits and no chance for wierdness - just my .02

facboy

man you guys have got to play SS1...beg, borrow or steal it. maybe i was being overly nostalgic, looking through rose-tinted glasses, but great as SS2 was, i don't think it even came close to SS1. i might even say i was slightly disappointed .

Teddy952

I just called a very reputable machine shop in the area and they are asking 50$ to extract whats left of the broken stud. I think I may bring it to them just for piece of mind. I dont' have any lefty bits or EZ outs. For the price of the tools I can let a pro do it.

Acetylene

I completely agree. Are they going to helicoil, timesert, or EMD it? I think in the EMD process they use a wire to burn it out. I am sure someone can elaborate and probably correct me if I am wrong.

sharky47

EDM= Electro discarge machining.

Instead of cutting the metal, there in an electrode that vaporizes it in a controlled manner.

billindenver

I just had the studs in my turbo removed with EDM. Pretty slick. On the exhaust stud though, I bet it comes out very easily. Mine that snapped backed right out practically finger tight. Give it a shot...a back out set is cheap and even if you do manage to break it off...EDM vaporizes back outs as easy as the stud. No harm done.

Teddy952

EMD sounds cool. Ill ask the shop about it.

Does anyone know why an exhaust stud will break? I recently did a head gasket on this car and I remember that getting the headers to match with the X-over was a bit of a pain. I loosened all the header a bit and matched it to the X-over then tightened the header and X-over together. Do you think that varying expansion and contraction of the X-over and header stressed that one particular stud into breaking? The stud that is broken is the one closest the the front on the 2nd cylinder. The header for the 2nd and 3rd cylinder does not have and expansion joint like 1 and 4 does.

Should I tighten down the header on 2 and 3 and leave 1 and 4 somewhat loose to allow for proper seating to the X-over?

sharky47

EDM = Correct

EMD = Incorrect

LFA951

I had a broken stud recently, it still had thread on it, I figured why make a big mess over a single broken stud, when the other 7 were fine, so I cleaned it, applied some JB Weld (red and black 600 F) to it and screwed it back in, let it dry for 24 hours and then tightened the nut a little, not too tight. Have not had any problems since! Cost me $3.99!!

Teddy952

What if the JB weld didn't work? Wouldn't that make a much bigger mess to clean out if it didn't?

LFA951

Not at all, the JB weld is where the stud broke in between the two pieces of the stud, it's actually holding them together, with the thread helping out the one at the end. The biggest mess to remove is the stud stuck behind the JB Weld, but I don't have to worry about that...