caliper rebuild complete w/pics : Updated
02-07-2007, 09:26 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
caliper rebuild complete w/pics : Updated
I finished up rebuilding/refinishing my calipers and thought i would post a couple of pics, nothing fancy just clean, fresh and track ready. The old boots were dry rot, cracking and torn and in desperate need of replacement, so new boots, seals, bleeders, caliper lines and stainless steel lines all around. I used VHT high temp caliper spray paint a high temp clear coat and baked them in the oven.
Thanks to all who have described this rebuild proceedure in past threads, really was a simple job.
Thanks to all who have described this rebuild proceedure in past threads, really was a simple job.
Last edited by mj951; 02-09-2007 at 10:52 PM.
Trending Topics
02-08-2007, 01:28 AM
#9
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where did you get the specific parts to rebuild the caliper, was it a kit or did you order individual parts? I've been wanting to powdercoat my calipers but have had trouble finding seals and whatnot...although I have not really looked that hard.
02-08-2007, 02:03 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rocket951
Where did you get the specific parts to rebuild the caliper, was it a kit or did you order individual parts? I've been wanting to powdercoat my calipers but have had trouble finding seals and whatnot...although I have not really looked that hard.
02-08-2007, 09:10 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the positive feed back.
The boots and seals are available through Paragon though they were out of stock at the time i was looking so i found another source. I would like to get the owners permission before i put their name out there, and they're out of town for the week at a driving school. Assuming he's ok with it i'll update this thread next week with their contact information.
If you do a search for caliper rebuild there are about four pages of threads, i read through quite a few of them before getting started. Also try this link to a pca web site with a good write up, http://www.schattenbaum.org/tech_art...er_rebuild.htm.
I will try and describe my process below, it was quit simple if you take your time, be clean and organized you won't have any problems. I did mine over a couple weekends, working a few hours at a time.
The Process for S4 four piston calipers with dust boots and seals:
Removal/Disassemble
1. remove calipers from the vehicle
2. using compressed air, blow one piston out of the caliper at a time as you hold the other three in with blocks of wood and c-clamps. use a block of wood set into the caliper to capture the piston you are removing and keep it from flying out, watch your fingers. keep your pistons organized and make sure they go back into the same cylinders they came out. clean before reinstalling.
3. once your pistons are out remove bleeders and the brake line between the two halves. clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
Clean/Strip Anodizing
4. use duct tape cut to the appropriate size circles and tape off all four cylinders. plug holes with bleeders if you plan to replace or use 10mm grease fittings. keep the aircraft remover away from the cylinder walls and caliper internals.
5. use small disposable brushes to apply aircraft remover (Klean Strip) to the calipers, cover liberally, the anodizing will imediately start to bubble off. wear rubber gloves and eye protection when using the remover.
6. after the caliper is completely coated and the stripper has worked for half hour to an hour take them to your local car wash and spray them down, again wear eye protection and rubber gloves.
7. back home, remove tape and spray down again with brake cleaner, let air dry. a brass brush can help get the last bit of anodizing off. repeat 5-7 if necessary.
Refinish
8. use 3M blue painters tape to tape off cylinders again and plug the bleeder and line holes.
9. use wire to hang calipers and paint with high temp caliper spray paint.
10. i used a flat black paint and hoped to keep a matte finish but the high temp clear coat gave them a slight sheen.
11. after dry bake in over per directions
Rebuild
12. using your fingers, coat the cylinder walls with fresh brake fluid. brake fluid is hard on your hands, wear latex gloves.
13. dunk seals in fresh brake fluid and install them into the grove in cylinders making sure they do not twist.
14. dunk piston into brake fluid and slip piston into the cylinder until it binds against the seal.
15. slip dust boot onto the piston and into the grove.
16. you will use a c-clamp to press the pistons into the cylinders. i cut wooden dowels just slightly smaller in diameter than the cavity in the pistons about an inch long so they were just longer than the depth of the cavity and stuck out far enough to get a c-clamp on them. slowly use a c-clamp to press against the wooden dowel and a wooden block on the back of the caliper to move the piston into the cylinder. it takes very little effort to press in. if you feel the back of the piston catch on the back lip of the grove for the piston seal simply back off on the c-clamp half a turn, re-align the clamp and turn in again. it was quite common to catch the grove and i had to constantly back off on the c-clamp and try again. once you get the first one in you will get the feel of it and the rest will be a piece of cake, just don't force the first one or you will damage the piston.
17. once the piston is all the way in use your finger to press the boot into the grove in the face of the caliper. wipe away access fluid.
18. repeat steps 12-17 for each piston...
hope this helps, if you keep a clean work space and be patient you will be fine, it is not a difficult procedure.
good luck.
Update:
I sourced the boots and seals from Zeckhausen Racing, the owner Dave was great help with good prices. (no affiliation bla..bla..bla)
Pole position is correct they are Stoptech kits and have no fitment issues with Brembo calipers. Just have the seal sizes ready to go when placing your order.
Here's their link: http://www.zeckhausen.com/
The boots and seals are available through Paragon though they were out of stock at the time i was looking so i found another source. I would like to get the owners permission before i put their name out there, and they're out of town for the week at a driving school. Assuming he's ok with it i'll update this thread next week with their contact information.
If you do a search for caliper rebuild there are about four pages of threads, i read through quite a few of them before getting started. Also try this link to a pca web site with a good write up, http://www.schattenbaum.org/tech_art...er_rebuild.htm.
I will try and describe my process below, it was quit simple if you take your time, be clean and organized you won't have any problems. I did mine over a couple weekends, working a few hours at a time.
The Process for S4 four piston calipers with dust boots and seals:
Removal/Disassemble
1. remove calipers from the vehicle
2. using compressed air, blow one piston out of the caliper at a time as you hold the other three in with blocks of wood and c-clamps. use a block of wood set into the caliper to capture the piston you are removing and keep it from flying out, watch your fingers. keep your pistons organized and make sure they go back into the same cylinders they came out. clean before reinstalling.
3. once your pistons are out remove bleeders and the brake line between the two halves. clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
Clean/Strip Anodizing
4. use duct tape cut to the appropriate size circles and tape off all four cylinders. plug holes with bleeders if you plan to replace or use 10mm grease fittings. keep the aircraft remover away from the cylinder walls and caliper internals.
5. use small disposable brushes to apply aircraft remover (Klean Strip) to the calipers, cover liberally, the anodizing will imediately start to bubble off. wear rubber gloves and eye protection when using the remover.
6. after the caliper is completely coated and the stripper has worked for half hour to an hour take them to your local car wash and spray them down, again wear eye protection and rubber gloves.
7. back home, remove tape and spray down again with brake cleaner, let air dry. a brass brush can help get the last bit of anodizing off. repeat 5-7 if necessary.
Refinish
8. use 3M blue painters tape to tape off cylinders again and plug the bleeder and line holes.
9. use wire to hang calipers and paint with high temp caliper spray paint.
10. i used a flat black paint and hoped to keep a matte finish but the high temp clear coat gave them a slight sheen.
11. after dry bake in over per directions
Rebuild
12. using your fingers, coat the cylinder walls with fresh brake fluid. brake fluid is hard on your hands, wear latex gloves.
13. dunk seals in fresh brake fluid and install them into the grove in cylinders making sure they do not twist.
14. dunk piston into brake fluid and slip piston into the cylinder until it binds against the seal.
15. slip dust boot onto the piston and into the grove.
16. you will use a c-clamp to press the pistons into the cylinders. i cut wooden dowels just slightly smaller in diameter than the cavity in the pistons about an inch long so they were just longer than the depth of the cavity and stuck out far enough to get a c-clamp on them. slowly use a c-clamp to press against the wooden dowel and a wooden block on the back of the caliper to move the piston into the cylinder. it takes very little effort to press in. if you feel the back of the piston catch on the back lip of the grove for the piston seal simply back off on the c-clamp half a turn, re-align the clamp and turn in again. it was quite common to catch the grove and i had to constantly back off on the c-clamp and try again. once you get the first one in you will get the feel of it and the rest will be a piece of cake, just don't force the first one or you will damage the piston.
17. once the piston is all the way in use your finger to press the boot into the grove in the face of the caliper. wipe away access fluid.
18. repeat steps 12-17 for each piston...
hope this helps, if you keep a clean work space and be patient you will be fine, it is not a difficult procedure.
good luck.
Update:
I sourced the boots and seals from Zeckhausen Racing, the owner Dave was great help with good prices. (no affiliation bla..bla..bla)
Pole position is correct they are Stoptech kits and have no fitment issues with Brembo calipers. Just have the seal sizes ready to go when placing your order.
Here's their link: http://www.zeckhausen.com/
Last edited by mj951; 02-09-2007 at 08:24 PM. Reason: Boot/Seal Source
02-09-2007, 05:26 PM
#12
Done With Sidepatch
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by mj951
...The boots and seals are available through Paragon though they were out of stock at the time i was looking so i found another source. I would like to get the owners permission before i put their name out there, and they're out of town for the week at a driving school. Assuming he's ok with it i'll update this thread next week with their contact information...
02-09-2007, 08:37 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
potent951,
I purchased the bleeders and caliper lines from Ian at 944Online, these are Brembo parts and can be found on his web site. Also, I updated the thread with a source for the boots and seals. I would say i rebuilt all four calipers for the price of a new one, but who's counting.
I purchased the bleeders and caliper lines from Ian at 944Online, these are Brembo parts and can be found on his web site. Also, I updated the thread with a source for the boots and seals. I would say i rebuilt all four calipers for the price of a new one, but who's counting.
