Interest in a “plug and play” EGT probe kit?
12-09-2006, 03:23 PM
#63
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Originally Posted by RK951
Where's the install manual?
Seriously though, it is my intent to post here a simple installation instruction, but so far I have been extremely busy with "other things". So please be patient.
Everybody is more than welcome to ask installation questions here or via PM, so I can address those specific issues.
Laust
12-10-2006, 04:08 PM
#65
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Porsche 944 Turbo, EGT Probe Installation in Crossover Pipe
The following is for LHD only, but can also act as inspiration for a RHD installations.
Tools needed:
1) 17 mm open wrench (for CO test tube removal, nut)
2) 10 mm wrench (for removal of aluminum belly pan and CO test tube upper brackets)
3) 19 mm or ¾” open wrench (for EGT probe installation, nut)
4) Wire cutter (for trimming cable ties and cable ends)
5) Pliers (to assist in mounting cable ties and for crimping connectors to cable ends)
6) Lighter or matches (for the heat shrink tubing on the connectors)
7) Guide wire with a blunt end (to guide the cable through the main grommet, should be stiff enough to push)
8) Tape (to temporarily join the cable and guide wire)
9) Jack stands or ramps (to lift the front of the car up to be able to safely work underneath the crossover pipe)
Picture 1
Step 1:
Lift the front of the car up to be able to safely work underneath the crossover pipe.
Step 2:
Working under the car.
Remove the aluminum belly pan (if still installed)
Step 3:
Locate and remove CO test tube exiting on top of the crossover pipe. There are some engine mounting points further up the tube. Use a 17 mm open wrench on the nut on top of the crossover pipe. The picture shows the removed CO test pipe next to the EGT probe to be installed.
Picture 2
Step 4:
Slide the nut and ferrule over the hot leg of the EGT probe as shown in the picture, masking sure that the ferrule’s sharp edged end points towards the nut as shown in the picture.
Picture 3
Step 5:
Insert the probe, with nut and ferrule, in the crossover bung so some of the straight part of the probe’s “hot leg” is visible. Then finger tighten the nut so it starts grabbing on to the ferrule (light use of a 19mm or ¾” open wrench may be needed).
Now it is time to align the probe, by adjusting the height so the probe bend starts just above the nut and pointing the wire end (“cold leg”) in the direction of where the wire is to be mounted.
Then tighten the nut in steps and test if the nut is tight enough by slightly rotating the probe back and forth. When you actually bend or twist the probe slightly, then the nut is tight enough. The probe is quite rugged and can easily handle a slight manual bend.
Once the nut is tightened the ferrule is crimped on the probe and the insertion depth cannot be changed, however the probe can be rotated by loosening the nut.
On some cars the clearance between the crossover bung and engine could be significantly less than we experienced. If the probe is impossible to insert then it is rugged and flexible enough to slightly bend by hand to obtain extra clearance.
Picture 4
Step 6:
Route the wire as shown in the picture toward the main grommet and secure the wire to the steel line shown in the picture with one or two cable ties as shown (for those interested, the green wire is for oil temperature). Make sure that there is enough slack in the cable to allow for engine movement.
Picture 5
Step 7:
Working on top of the engine.
Join the probe and guide wire with tape as shown.
Picture 6
Step 8:
Poke a hole in the main grommet in the locations shown and carefully push it into the passenger foot-well, making sure that there is minimal resistance against the pushing.
If there is too much resistance retract a little and try in a slightly different direction.
Notes: Too much resistance probably means that the guide wire is caught in the main harness. Joining the probe and guide wire as shown gives the smallest profile and therefore the smallest chance for catching on other wires.
There are obviously other and more difficult ways of entering the cabin such as poking a hole on the opposite side of the main grommet, actually going through the main grommet and drilling another hole in the firewall and inserting a properly dimensioned small grommet.
Picture 7
Step 9:
Working in the cabin.
Once the guide wire is inserted a foot or more, then search for it in the passenger foot-well and pull the wire in, so it becomes adequately tight outside. Then route the wire to your monitoring device (EGT gauge).
Step 10:
To terminate the stripped cable it may be necessary to first trim it slightly.
If you use the supplied spade connectors, then the procedure is to first trim the cable ends, slide the small shrink tube over the two wires, slide the spade connector on the wire end, crimp the connector onto the wire, heat the shrink tubing so it covers both part of the connector and cable end, slide the large shrink tube over the spade connector and apply heat to the connector. Repeat for the other wire. See picture.
Picture 8
Note: The yellow wire is + (red is -). With signals in the mV range, the only effect of reversing the polarity is that no signal will be displayed.
The electrical leads of the EGT probe are made of stainless steel and therefore close to impossible to solder.
Step 11:
Connect leads to monitoring device (EGT gauge) and enjoy the installation … after cleaning up, re-installing aluminum belly pan, etc.
Laust
Tools needed:
1) 17 mm open wrench (for CO test tube removal, nut)
2) 10 mm wrench (for removal of aluminum belly pan and CO test tube upper brackets)
3) 19 mm or ¾” open wrench (for EGT probe installation, nut)
4) Wire cutter (for trimming cable ties and cable ends)
5) Pliers (to assist in mounting cable ties and for crimping connectors to cable ends)
6) Lighter or matches (for the heat shrink tubing on the connectors)
7) Guide wire with a blunt end (to guide the cable through the main grommet, should be stiff enough to push)
8) Tape (to temporarily join the cable and guide wire)
9) Jack stands or ramps (to lift the front of the car up to be able to safely work underneath the crossover pipe)
Picture 1
Step 1:
Lift the front of the car up to be able to safely work underneath the crossover pipe.
Step 2:
Working under the car.
Remove the aluminum belly pan (if still installed)
Step 3:
Locate and remove CO test tube exiting on top of the crossover pipe. There are some engine mounting points further up the tube. Use a 17 mm open wrench on the nut on top of the crossover pipe. The picture shows the removed CO test pipe next to the EGT probe to be installed.
Picture 2
Step 4:
Slide the nut and ferrule over the hot leg of the EGT probe as shown in the picture, masking sure that the ferrule’s sharp edged end points towards the nut as shown in the picture.
Picture 3
Step 5:
Insert the probe, with nut and ferrule, in the crossover bung so some of the straight part of the probe’s “hot leg” is visible. Then finger tighten the nut so it starts grabbing on to the ferrule (light use of a 19mm or ¾” open wrench may be needed).
Now it is time to align the probe, by adjusting the height so the probe bend starts just above the nut and pointing the wire end (“cold leg”) in the direction of where the wire is to be mounted.
Then tighten the nut in steps and test if the nut is tight enough by slightly rotating the probe back and forth. When you actually bend or twist the probe slightly, then the nut is tight enough. The probe is quite rugged and can easily handle a slight manual bend.
Once the nut is tightened the ferrule is crimped on the probe and the insertion depth cannot be changed, however the probe can be rotated by loosening the nut.
On some cars the clearance between the crossover bung and engine could be significantly less than we experienced. If the probe is impossible to insert then it is rugged and flexible enough to slightly bend by hand to obtain extra clearance.
Picture 4
Step 6:
Route the wire as shown in the picture toward the main grommet and secure the wire to the steel line shown in the picture with one or two cable ties as shown (for those interested, the green wire is for oil temperature). Make sure that there is enough slack in the cable to allow for engine movement.
Picture 5
Step 7:
Working on top of the engine.
Join the probe and guide wire with tape as shown.
Picture 6
Step 8:
Poke a hole in the main grommet in the locations shown and carefully push it into the passenger foot-well, making sure that there is minimal resistance against the pushing.
If there is too much resistance retract a little and try in a slightly different direction.
Notes: Too much resistance probably means that the guide wire is caught in the main harness. Joining the probe and guide wire as shown gives the smallest profile and therefore the smallest chance for catching on other wires.
There are obviously other and more difficult ways of entering the cabin such as poking a hole on the opposite side of the main grommet, actually going through the main grommet and drilling another hole in the firewall and inserting a properly dimensioned small grommet.
Picture 7
Step 9:
Working in the cabin.
Once the guide wire is inserted a foot or more, then search for it in the passenger foot-well and pull the wire in, so it becomes adequately tight outside. Then route the wire to your monitoring device (EGT gauge).
Step 10:
To terminate the stripped cable it may be necessary to first trim it slightly.
If you use the supplied spade connectors, then the procedure is to first trim the cable ends, slide the small shrink tube over the two wires, slide the spade connector on the wire end, crimp the connector onto the wire, heat the shrink tubing so it covers both part of the connector and cable end, slide the large shrink tube over the spade connector and apply heat to the connector. Repeat for the other wire. See picture.
Picture 8
Note: The yellow wire is + (red is -). With signals in the mV range, the only effect of reversing the polarity is that no signal will be displayed.
The electrical leads of the EGT probe are made of stainless steel and therefore close to impossible to solder.
Step 11:
Connect leads to monitoring device (EGT gauge) and enjoy the installation … after cleaning up, re-installing aluminum belly pan, etc.
Laust
12-13-2006, 02:51 PM
#70
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I recieved mine as well. Very nice put together and great write up. Now just waiting to see results from others to see how well it works, what guage they go with and etc.
12-16-2006, 05:15 PM
#72
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Just plugged mine in to the zeitronix and it sems works perfectly. I'll post some pics later, along with details on how to connect to the zeitronix unit. Thanks Laust!
12-17-2006, 03:12 AM
#73
Rennlist Member
Here is a picture of the connector needed to plug the egt probe into the zeitronix. You can either order a spare egt harness from zeitronix, or get the connectors and pins from Mouser, Jameco, etc. The connectors are Jameco #882867 or Molex 538-43025-0200 (2 pin Microfit 3.0 Receptacles); and the pins are Jameco #337720 or Molex 538-43030-0007 (female pins) (I have a "few" extras I can share on request.)
