Zeitronix Wideband wiring diagram?
#1
Drive-by provocation guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
Posts: 10,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Zeitronix Wideband wiring diagram?
I didn't see it on the site.
Anyone have a copy or can tell me which is the RPM wire?
Also, on the DME diagram, there are several RPM pins. Which is the right one?
Anyone have a copy or can tell me which is the RPM wire?
Also, on the DME diagram, there are several RPM pins. Which is the right one?
#3
Becareful with the which green wire you cut. On my 86 951, I had two green wires. A thick solid one is shielded, do not use it. Use the smaller green and black one.
See this thread Starting at post #8
See this thread Starting at post #8
#5
I should have clarified a bit. Someone chimed in and mentioned you could use the thicker one (which piggy backs to a couple of other pins) but you would damage the shielding and risk throwing off the signal to the other points. Looking at the mechanics manual, the direct tach signal was green/black.
Wish I knew that out of the gate.
Wish I knew that out of the gate.
#7
Wire 1 (red): connects to DME pin 18 (red/yellow) or other switched 12 volt source
Wire 2 – not used
Wire 3 (green): connects to DME pin 21 (green, RPM signal)
Wire 4 (orange): connects to boost sensor’s green wire
Wire 5 – not used
Wire 6 (yellow) connects to boost sensor’s red wire
Wire 7 (black) connects to DME pin 5 (brown, ground)
Wire 8 (brown) connects to boost sensor’s black wire
Wire 9 – not used
Wire 10 (grey) connects to KLR pin 22 (white/green, TPS)
Wire 11 – not used
Wire 12 (blue) spare input I connected to MAF DME pin 7
Wire 2 – not used
Wire 3 (green): connects to DME pin 21 (green, RPM signal)
Wire 4 (orange): connects to boost sensor’s green wire
Wire 5 – not used
Wire 6 (yellow) connects to boost sensor’s red wire
Wire 7 (black) connects to DME pin 5 (brown, ground)
Wire 8 (brown) connects to boost sensor’s black wire
Wire 9 – not used
Wire 10 (grey) connects to KLR pin 22 (white/green, TPS)
Wire 11 – not used
Wire 12 (blue) spare input I connected to MAF DME pin 7
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by sh944
Wire 1 (red): connects to DME pin 18 (red/yellow) or other switched 12 volt source
Wire 2 – not used
Wire 3 (green): connects to DME pin 21 (green, RPM signal)
Wire 4 (orange): connects to boost sensor’s green wire
Wire 5 – not used
Wire 6 (yellow) connects to boost sensor’s red wire
Wire 7 (black) connects to DME pin 5 (brown, ground)
Wire 8 (brown) connects to boost sensor’s black wire
Wire 9 – not used
Wire 10 (grey) connects to KLR pin 22 (white/green, TPS)
Wire 11 – not used
Wire 12 (blue) spare input I connected to MAF DME pin 7
Wire 2 – not used
Wire 3 (green): connects to DME pin 21 (green, RPM signal)
Wire 4 (orange): connects to boost sensor’s green wire
Wire 5 – not used
Wire 6 (yellow) connects to boost sensor’s red wire
Wire 7 (black) connects to DME pin 5 (brown, ground)
Wire 8 (brown) connects to boost sensor’s black wire
Wire 9 – not used
Wire 10 (grey) connects to KLR pin 22 (white/green, TPS)
Wire 11 – not used
Wire 12 (blue) spare input I connected to MAF DME pin 7
#9
Sorry Tom! I had filed that away a while back and didn't notate the source at the time. I am happy to give credit where credit is due (um, as long as it doesn't cost me money! lol). That is a handy reference and should have been included with the original instructions.
Regards,
Regards,
#10
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by sh944
Sorry Tom! I had filed that away a while back and didn't notate the source at the time. I am happy to give credit where credit is due (um, as long as it doesn't cost me money! lol). That is a handy reference and should have been included with the original instructions.
Regards,
Regards,
#12
Originally Posted by chapstic951
I should have clarified a bit. Someone chimed in and mentioned you could use the thicker one (which piggy backs to a couple of other pins) but you would damage the shielding and risk throwing off the signal to the other points. Looking at the mechanics manual, the direct tach signal was green/black.
Wish I knew that out of the gate.
Wish I knew that out of the gate.
This is corret - you may use either.
but use the smaller green/black one!!!!!!
#13
quick question
if i only use the o2 sensor and not have the boost sensor then i don´t need to connect wire 8 right?
i should only use
Wire 1 (red): connects to DME pin 18 (red/yellow) or other switched 12 volt source
Wire 3 (green): connects to DME pin 21 (green, RPM signal)
Wire 7 (black) connects to DME pin 5 (brown, ground)
Wire 10 (grey) connects to KLR pin 22 (white/green, TPS)
if i only use the o2 sensor and not have the boost sensor then i don´t need to connect wire 8 right?
i should only use
Wire 1 (red): connects to DME pin 18 (red/yellow) or other switched 12 volt source
Wire 3 (green): connects to DME pin 21 (green, RPM signal)
Wire 7 (black) connects to DME pin 5 (brown, ground)
Wire 10 (grey) connects to KLR pin 22 (white/green, TPS)
#15
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Baltimore MD
Posts: 962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm glad this thread is here, I'm going to be doing the same wiring tonight.
On a somewhat related note, is it absolutely necessary to have the exhaust off the car to have the 02 bung welded on? My only other easily accessible transportation is my bike, and it's not so easy to drive around with an exhaust pipe on that.
On a somewhat related note, is it absolutely necessary to have the exhaust off the car to have the 02 bung welded on? My only other easily accessible transportation is my bike, and it's not so easy to drive around with an exhaust pipe on that.