Power Steering Fluid flush - tapping (stuck lifters)
09-19-2006, 12:09 PM
#1
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Power Steering Fluid flush - tapping (stuck lifters)
How can I achieve a power steering fluid flush? Is there any drain plugs or anything? I need to cycle the fuild and get some good stuff in there. All help is greatly appreciated, Thanks!
Last edited by 1Sick86; 09-19-2006 at 05:15 PM.
09-19-2006, 02:20 PM
#2
Race Car
I remove the pressure line from the pump and place it below the level of the rack. I find this will drain about 75-80% of the fluid in the rack. It will also allow the resevoir and pump to drain.
Once the system is empty it is reccomended to replace the resevoir, since it has a filter inside the bottom of it.
Once empty the system takes maybe 750mL of fluid to fill. I always buy a 1L bottle of ATF and have some left over.
Once the system is empty it is reccomended to replace the resevoir, since it has a filter inside the bottom of it.
Once empty the system takes maybe 750mL of fluid to fill. I always buy a 1L bottle of ATF and have some left over.
09-19-2006, 02:51 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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^^^^^ what he said.
I replaced my rack this weekend and drained it just like that. It helps to jack up the front of the car so you can turn the wheel from lock to lock to get all of it out of the rack.
I replaced my rack this weekend and drained it just like that. It helps to jack up the front of the car so you can turn the wheel from lock to lock to get all of it out of the rack.
09-19-2006, 04:34 PM
#4
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tapping from top-end, lifters?
Awesome, thanks for the info!
I also have another question... I just bought this car and it was sitting for close to a year. It had the water and oil mixing, I just changed the oil cooler housing gaskets and was a little worried about the rod bearings so I went ahead and changed them out also. Now the bottom end should be pretty sound. But now once I start the car it has a tapping from the top end. It sounds like a stuck lifter or something. I am new to this car and was wondering if it has lifters or tappets? Or what is the difference? From searching around it seems that they need to probably warm up in order to fill up with oil pressure, but I let it run for like 30 minutes last night (first time in a year) and the tapping was still there. Are these lifters or tappets adjustable, or is the rocker (not sure what they are called on these cars) just a tighten to a specific lb/ft spec? Is it possible maybe the water that entered the crakcase got the best of my lifters/tappets? Maybe some more running with the car to try and free them up, or an additive to the oil to help out?? I have to do an oil flush anyways so now would be an ideal time. I hope it is not a faulty spring, I am not to sure on how to tell the difference though.... Again, all help is greatly appreciated!!
I also have another question... I just bought this car and it was sitting for close to a year. It had the water and oil mixing, I just changed the oil cooler housing gaskets and was a little worried about the rod bearings so I went ahead and changed them out also. Now the bottom end should be pretty sound. But now once I start the car it has a tapping from the top end. It sounds like a stuck lifter or something. I am new to this car and was wondering if it has lifters or tappets? Or what is the difference? From searching around it seems that they need to probably warm up in order to fill up with oil pressure, but I let it run for like 30 minutes last night (first time in a year) and the tapping was still there. Are these lifters or tappets adjustable, or is the rocker (not sure what they are called on these cars) just a tighten to a specific lb/ft spec? Is it possible maybe the water that entered the crakcase got the best of my lifters/tappets? Maybe some more running with the car to try and free them up, or an additive to the oil to help out?? I have to do an oil flush anyways so now would be an ideal time. I hope it is not a faulty spring, I am not to sure on how to tell the difference though.... Again, all help is greatly appreciated!!
Last edited by 1Sick86; 09-19-2006 at 05:16 PM.
09-19-2006, 05:02 PM
#6
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Yea, I hope they free up. Would it be okay though to run around and maybe push it a little without hurting anything?? Also what weight oil should I use? I was thinking synthetic 15-40/50, whatever thick oil I can find..
09-19-2006, 07:28 PM
#7
Race Car
It is entirely possible that the water inside of them allowed them to rust and they might be in bad shape.
That said you might as well try the cheap fixes first. They could just be gummed up.
Try letting it warm right up, then take it out for a drive. Give it 2 or 3 hours of running/driving for the lifters to free up.
They are self-adjusting engine oil-fed hydraulic lifters, and sit directly below the camshaft just incase you were curious.
If driving it around doesn't quiet them down then add 1L of ATF to the oil and allow the engine to idle for 20 or 30 minutes, then change the oil. I have used this trick with great success several times.
Ticking lifters won't cause an immediate failure, so I would drive it until it's oil change time, then add the 1L of ATF and allow it to run. If it doesn't clear up after one application then try again on the next oil change.
If it really is bad then you could buy a new set of lifters, but at $80 each you want to be sure which ones are bad before you change any of them.
That said you might as well try the cheap fixes first. They could just be gummed up.
Try letting it warm right up, then take it out for a drive. Give it 2 or 3 hours of running/driving for the lifters to free up.
They are self-adjusting engine oil-fed hydraulic lifters, and sit directly below the camshaft just incase you were curious.
If driving it around doesn't quiet them down then add 1L of ATF to the oil and allow the engine to idle for 20 or 30 minutes, then change the oil. I have used this trick with great success several times.
Ticking lifters won't cause an immediate failure, so I would drive it until it's oil change time, then add the 1L of ATF and allow it to run. If it doesn't clear up after one application then try again on the next oil change.
If it really is bad then you could buy a new set of lifters, but at $80 each you want to be sure which ones are bad before you change any of them.
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09-19-2006, 07:29 PM
#8
Race Car
Oh, and on the oil question I wouldn't run anything thinner than 10W40, preferably 5W50, 15W50, 20W50 or 10W60. I am also a huge fan of synthetic oils, especially because it's turbocharged.
IMO some of the best and somewhat easily available oils are:
Mobil 1 5W50/15W50
Castrol 5W50
Lubro Moly 10W60
Amsoil 20W50
IMO some of the best and somewhat easily available oils are:
Mobil 1 5W50/15W50
Castrol 5W50
Lubro Moly 10W60
Amsoil 20W50
09-20-2006, 12:39 AM
#10
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Thank you so much! 
This is a great help to my problem, and I will do everything exactly as you said. I love learning about my new car and I am going to look around for some engine drawings so I can see how this thing works. Thank you again for helping me with my new baby!! 
This is a great help to my problem, and I will do everything exactly as you said. I love learning about my new car and I am going to look around for some engine drawings so I can see how this thing works. Thank you again for helping me with my new baby!!
09-20-2006, 02:02 AM
#11
Race Car
I would be afraid to put seafoam in my oil.
I ran 2 cans through the intake and the difference is like night and day.
Then again I had a severe oil burning problem on #4 (upside-down rings), and LOADS of carbon buildup on the other piston crowns, valves and basically everywhere from a big boost leak and excessively rich chips. I still wouldn't put it in my oil.
IMO ATF is marginal to put in your oil. I wouldn't run it under any load or at engine speeds above 1000RPM for fear of accelerating engine wear. None the less it has fixed many sticky lifters, so I still reccomend it.
I ran 2 cans through the intake and the difference is like night and day.
Then again I had a severe oil burning problem on #4 (upside-down rings), and LOADS of carbon buildup on the other piston crowns, valves and basically everywhere from a big boost leak and excessively rich chips. I still wouldn't put it in my oil.
IMO ATF is marginal to put in your oil. I wouldn't run it under any load or at engine speeds above 1000RPM for fear of accelerating engine wear. None the less it has fixed many sticky lifters, so I still reccomend it.
