zoso_turbo

So......If I understood it correctly, the turbochargercooling pump on the 951 is supposed to run everytime you shut the car down, regardless of temperature. Is this correct?

The reason I ask is at the moment it does not run when I shut the car down, even if driven "hard" for 60+ minutes, which should hit the temperature threshold.

When I ground the unit directly, it runs, no problem, so I know pump does work. Additionally, my mechanic just replaced a temp sensor and has told me that he has not seet it turn on just yet, so I don't think I am out of the woods.

So....what gives???? Should this be turninig on?? thx.

=dan=

caster951

Probably the relay for the pump.

Landjet

I believe it should run for around 15 sec after you shut the car off.

rberry951

It could also be the temp sensor, but there are two and I forget which one it is off hand. When my pump died, it was intermittent before it went out all together, so it may be starting to fail...

Regards,
Russell

billthe3

I thought it runs however long is needed until the coolant is below the desired temp? I know mine will run for a minute or two after I stop driving.

Over Boost

When I was changing my fuel pump relay a month or so ago I checked to see what a turbo pump relay would cost and its like $200 for the stupid thing. If im not mistaken though you don’t REALLY need it... its just a convenient safety precaution. Lots of turbo cars don’t have them so before you shut your car off your just suppose to let it idle for a minute or two. Not a big deal but could definitely be a pain in the *** sitting for a extra minute or two every time you want to shut the car off. Or I should say every time you run the car above avg temps.

majuva33

It's probably the relay: PN # 951 618 149 00. I picked up a good second hand for next to nothing. It's worth getting. Cheap insurance on your turbo!

Dave951

Well, its not the temp sensor thats connected to the coolant hardpipe thats shaped like a "Y" because I've deleted that and my pump still runs fine.

Maybe a poor connection at the 3 pin plug near the driver side strut tower.

A alternate route if getting replacement parts is to expensive is an aftermarket turbo timer, or manually allowing your car to cool for 1 - 2 mins before shut down.

SimonK

I disagree. On cars (not fitted with turbo coolant pump) turbos lasted on average at about 80,000 miles. 88 onwards I believe, cars fitted with turbo coolant pumps see beyond 200,000 miles on a turbo. I think $200 well spent.

Yes running you car for a minute or two helps but it is no substitute.

The pump runs for 30 seconds. If temp is still 2 hot it runs again for 30 seconds. The problem is if you don't cool the turbo after switching off the engine the temperature will simply cook the bearings as they sit there stupidly in scorching oil with no cooling.

I had the same problem - see my post of few weeks ago.

I bought a new pump. Then the old one started to work again.

I fed the electricity to the pump but the pump was dead. However, I now think it was simply stuck. In your case it sounds like you have no voltage going to the pump. I would say - relay or lose connection somewhere. Try and disconnect the connection by the pump and measure if you have voltage running to the pump?

zoso_turbo

Excellent feedback...Let me run a few scenarios past you....

1. To test the relay...I should run the car for a bit...disconnect the power to the pump and measure for voltage ; correct? If no power, test or replace the relay - agree?

2. If I do have power to the pump, in all likelyhood, it is the pump - agree?

3. If neither of the above work, have a couple cold ones and......\

Thx for all of the feedback

=dan=

SimonK

You don't need to run your car for a-bit. Just start it and switch off. First time the pump runs regardless of temperature. The pump should be buzzing straight away for 30 seconds or so.

If not, there is a connection for the pump (male /female socket) just above the pump to the right. Simply follow the lead from the pump and 4 inches backwards you will see the connection. Unplug and measure if 12V is coming out of the loom. If not the chances are it is the relay. Try fiddle with the relay and clean the contacts before you rush off and buy one - this was the case with my DME relay.

If you have power to the pump the answer is NO it is not necessarily the pump. This is my scenario. I had voltage going to the pump and presumed pump was dead. But now it started to work again. I now believe they can also get stuck mechanically inside. So try knocking it about a-bit and see if it starts to work again or go for a blast at 160mph and maybe rush of water will unstuck it. This is what I did the other day and the pump is back operational.

If none of the above works - yes go ahead and have a cold one.

zoso_turbo

Simon

Thx for the insight.....I will check for voltage and also check the relay.

BTW, I am in the UK next week, as I have a meeting at London Heathrow ..... Crowne Plaza...Its good to know this is a worldly forum.

Will keep you posted

=dan=

Nico

By the way:
The temp sensor is there only for to run the pump for an additional 30 sec. if required...
It has nothing to do with the first start.
And yes, the pump should run for at least 30 sec. after shutdown, no matter what the engine temp was...

VWaddict

IF IT IS the relay that's bad, I'm looking for a dead one.

I'm an electronics engineer by trade and I'm looking to see what may be rebuildable on them. I'd use mine but I can't stop driving it long enough to strip it down.

If your relay is dead, I'd be interested in taking it from you.

Keith

zoso_turbo

Keith,

Your on......I am out of town the next two weeks and cannot work on it until I get back.

=dan=