Mark-87-951

I got the DME back. He didnt see anything obvious but re-soldered a number of connections. Plugged it in and the tach came to life but the batter was weak and eventually couldnt turn the engine. So, hopefully a jump start and re-charge of the batter is all I need. Oh, and the pin for klr that I broke.

Mark-87-951

arggghgh

Jump start and still doesnt fire up. Tach was alive. I guess injector lines are next?

Mark-87-951

Got the Lindsey injector harness in. Nice setup, though I'm going to get matching color zip ties to secure the shielding to the injector connectors. It slides around to much otherwise. Car battey is soooo dead all I get is a click right now. I may also have a klr pin in the wrong location, because it popped out. A pic or good description of where the pin with the green and green/yellow wire goes would be appreciated.

Mark-87-951

ok, got everything where it should be connection wise. Battery charged up. Cranks, and now no tach reading again.

What grounds should I be checking?

Mark-87-951

I got a look at one of the grounds at near the sensors. It does need some cleaning. Looks lilke I have to pull the intake manifold and the heater hose. Do I need to drain the coolant system somewhat or is it high enough up on the block to not worry about? Also, anyone know the bolt sizes for those grounds, as it might be easier to replace the bolts rather than clean them. What would be good to use on the wire terminals to clean them?

Thanks.

Jenkins

I am jumping late, just to get here very often anymore, but I had a similar problem.

Have you verified that you are getting fuel to the fuel rail? i.e. have you tested the fuel pump deliver rate?

Mark-87-951

I've bypassed the dme relay and could hear the pump and fuel flowing. I dont have a way to test the delivery rate right now.

Mark-87-951

I'm going to be pulling the intake manifold Friday and cleaning the grounds. I'm thinking my speed sensor was in the wrong location, when I pulled and replaced it. According to Clarke's garage it would be the one closest to the firewall. The one marked DG I could swear was not closest. I'll know better Friday but does the location matter?

Bri Bro

One counts the teeth on the flywheel (speed) and the other has a single count for each revolution of the flywheel (ref). I did not see that you have checked your fuel preasure, you really need to do this.

Mark-87-951

What were they smoking when they designed these cars!!?? To get to this ground it's irritating enough that I have to remove the intake manifold (damn dipstick!) but I also have to drain some coolant to remove the fitting that the ground is practically under! Tired of this ****!

C. Beau

I have never had to remove the intake manifold to remove the bellhousing...i.e. remove ref. sensors and ground wires

It is tight back there but it is definitly doable...without that much problem

I think I do usually remove the heater valve hose and some coolant spills out but no big deal

you might need to twist some stuff here or there...but get good light....make sure you have a good compliment of tools, extensions, flex sockets, what have you....take a deep breath and give it a good look....all that stuff comes out pretty easily

I posted earlier....you did check the distributor rotor right?

C. Beau

Has the car started since you changed the ref. sensors?

If not it is almost for sure misplaced ref. sensors...and you don't even have to pull them from the bell housing....just switch the plugs in the bracket up behind the intake....the two sensors themsleves (the part going down to the flywheel for counting) are the same part, just switch the plug end

Mark-87-951

Well already pulled everything except that hose coming off the back. I was worried a lot of coolant would spill, plus it started raining.

The rotor was replaced late last year. I'm trying to get the tach issue resolved. Ive gotten readings every now and then after changing this and that, but it seems that when I get full power, I dont get a reading. That's why I'm going for the grounds as the one I can see looks pretty bad.

Mark-87-951

Well, I've got the tach working a few times and started a couple times. What's odd is that I only pulled the sensor marked DG.

Mark-87-951

Ok, spilled some coolant but that actually helped with cleaning lol. Turns out besides those ground connections being dirty and corroded, the main ground from the battery is a mess. The outer sheilding is cracked and missing in places, the inner clear liner is also in the same shape and there's corrosion within the wire.

I notice our ground has splits to two termination points. Do I need to order OEM or is there a recommended aftermarket piece? I'm going to see what's available at the local stores but any advice would be appreciated.