zoso_turbo

Ok...my second post this evening.

My exhaust header pipe is cracked, #3 to be exact. I am on the fence about having it welded, again or, purchasing one, such as the one that Speed Force Racing offers (Stage I).

I am interested in getting your thoughts on welding Porsche headers, or purchasing solid aftermarket solutions. I am fed up with having to get the headers welded every few years.

I have an 86 951 and have recently rebuilt the motor, chipped it, installed a 3" exhaust, etc.

Looking forward to the feedback.

zoso_turbo

George D

There was a good article on the SFR header system in European Auto. It worked well and added some top end power on the dyno. Used stock units are probably available for much less. Depends on what you are looking for.

I'll do a google search and see if I can find it.

George

George D

Found It: http://www.europeancarweb.com/projec...header_system/

zoso_turbo

George

Thx for the assistance with locating this article....Is there any perspective on the SFR Stage I headers anywhere?? Not sure I can derive the value out of the Stage II system.

Thx again.

=dan=

George D

Dan,

If you can't derive value out of the SFR header system, then get a good stock unit. These aftermarket header systems, IMHO, are for the guys that are trying to get top high end power. Trust me, it's not much and you give up some bottom end.

Torque is what accellerates you, hp is what keeps you going. The stock headers were tuned for low end and good top end. They really are hard to beat. Maybe a good weld job will take care of things.

Food for thought.

George

dr pepper

http://www.europeancarweb.com/projec...e_944_headers/

Quote "When the dyno testing was all said and done, Don was right about the top end--the headers lost a few horsepower with the factory turbo-back exhaust system retained. But, much to our surprise, the gains in the low end were substantial. Between 3000 to 4000 rpm, the car was able to maintain between 17 to 18 more whp than with the factory headers, indicating a tremendous jump in low- and midrange torque of about 30 lb-ft, thanks to the boost kicking in a little sooner. What this header system essentially did was shift the power curve slightly to the left, which is nice for tightly turned racetracks and autocrosses, where torque is crucial, or even around-town driveability. However, it isn't be what you want for high-speed, straight-line performance"

The SFR stage 1 headers look like a similar design to the B&B ones...

jacklet

you shouldn't be welding headers every 2 yrs i tig'd mine up yrs ago and it didn't crack IMO the only headers to buy are equal lengths but they're crazy$ stage one's you might as well spend your money elsewhere and use stock headers

jacklet

where did it crack btw?

SoCal924

I'll weld your headers for you for $125, and you don't have to pay me until you receive them back and inspect my work.

2-3 is a common area to crack, the inner "Y" is problematic.

I weld them with a process I came up with a couple years back, using a spacer tube between 2-3 to stabilize the "Y", once you do that, no more cracks

I have pics of a repaired manifold I did on my other PC I will post them tommorow.


J

zoso_turbo

The crack is at or very near to the flange on #3...I will try and post a pic....

J....I am interested in getting you to weld the header...Can't say I have ever taken the headers off myself, can this be accomplished by an eager do it yourselfer?? Or should I have it removed by someone.

=dan=

SoCal924

Its a job, for sure... Once you seperate the downpipe(s) the 2 manifold pipes should come out OK, but the 12mm nuts can be hard to get to.

To be 100% honest Ive never taken JUST a manifold off a 951. Usually it was pull the motor then take the stuff off....

It should be 100% doable however.

Cracking at the flange is 100% normal on the "Y" pipe. Its prolly also stress fractured linearly along the pipe, but you can't see it. I'll inspect it carefully for you.

Lemme know what you wanna do, as I said 100% satisfaction guarantee



Jay

jacklet

cracking at the flange is common that's where mine cracked remove the studs and nuts loosen 1&4 2-3 should slip out if so-cal can't help you i can, once you've done a few you know what to look for good luck

lart951

Hey I found some oem headers with the updated accordian style join, they look great no cracks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ALCA%3AUS%3A11

DDP

Lart where do you find these deals at? That is such a great price!

lart951

I do a search on ebay but look for sellers with integrity and great feedback