EBC question-Profec.
10-30-2005, 06:58 AM
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EBC question-Profec.
This board is far more experienced with EBCs than any other on Rennlist..I have done a search about setting up the Profec here and found a lot of great info..
My question is concerning the boost reading option on the unit.
I have read contradicting info whether the number that flashes after a run is the boost reading or % boost over base...
If I want to reach 1.3 Bar, would that mean that I have to see "191" flashing for a couple of seconds on the display after the run? 1Bar being 14.7 PSI. I have the unit setup for PSI.
The reason I am asking is because I feel the car less responsive and powerful after installing the EBC, I had 1.1 Bar spring previously in my Tials without EBC and the car was an animal, it seems milder now, even at higher boost.
Jean
My question is concerning the boost reading option on the unit.
I have read contradicting info whether the number that flashes after a run is the boost reading or % boost over base...
If I want to reach 1.3 Bar, would that mean that I have to see "191" flashing for a couple of seconds on the display after the run? 1Bar being 14.7 PSI. I have the unit setup for PSI.
The reason I am asking is because I feel the car less responsive and powerful after installing the EBC, I had 1.1 Bar spring previously in my Tials without EBC and the car was an animal, it seems milder now, even at higher boost.
Jean
10-31-2005, 06:28 AM
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Hi Jean,
The unit is flashing the maximum boost that it saw during the run. This could have been at the start, or at some other point. You need to see how the boost ramps up, and how it either holds or decays.
You don't say which unit you have, but I assume that all the Greddy units (ie Profec B, B spec 2 etc) have the same parameters?
I used to run a Profec B spec 2, and from memory, it allows you to set a "start boost" level. Setting this too low will result in too gradual a build up of boost. Setting it too high will result in a brief overboost before the unit brings the boost level back down. This brief boost spike would be the value flashed up by the unit and would therefore not be representative of the overall boost set. You need to set "start boost" as high as possible to get the boost to come on strongly without overshooting your target boost.
You can also use the "gain" setting to reduce boost roll off. Turn it up to prevent boost dropping as the revs get higher. However, if you set the gain too high you will get unstable, fluctuating boost. Set it as high as you can without getting this.
Both of these values influence the boost profile, but they also affect the overall boost level. This is then adjusted back down/up with the "set gain" control. This in effect controls the duty cycle of the valve.
So you need to play around with with all three settings in combination to get the best boost level and profile that your setup can deliver. The max boost info from the Greddy is useful, but you need to monitor boost through the WOT run really.
Hope this helps. Like I say, I have moved on from the Greddy and so I may have remembered the terms incorrectly, but the principles should be correct.
Regards
Graham
'88 Turbo S
The unit is flashing the maximum boost that it saw during the run. This could have been at the start, or at some other point. You need to see how the boost ramps up, and how it either holds or decays.
You don't say which unit you have, but I assume that all the Greddy units (ie Profec B, B spec 2 etc) have the same parameters?
I used to run a Profec B spec 2, and from memory, it allows you to set a "start boost" level. Setting this too low will result in too gradual a build up of boost. Setting it too high will result in a brief overboost before the unit brings the boost level back down. This brief boost spike would be the value flashed up by the unit and would therefore not be representative of the overall boost set. You need to set "start boost" as high as possible to get the boost to come on strongly without overshooting your target boost.
You can also use the "gain" setting to reduce boost roll off. Turn it up to prevent boost dropping as the revs get higher. However, if you set the gain too high you will get unstable, fluctuating boost. Set it as high as you can without getting this.
Both of these values influence the boost profile, but they also affect the overall boost level. This is then adjusted back down/up with the "set gain" control. This in effect controls the duty cycle of the valve.
So you need to play around with with all three settings in combination to get the best boost level and profile that your setup can deliver. The max boost info from the Greddy is useful, but you need to monitor boost through the WOT run really.
Hope this helps. Like I say, I have moved on from the Greddy and so I may have remembered the terms incorrectly, but the principles should be correct.
Regards
Graham
'88 Turbo S
10-31-2005, 08:33 AM
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with the white text very 
in an attempt to drag us back towards the topic, why the change was there an issue with the spec 2 or did you just fancy more bling.
Tony
in an attempt to drag us back towards the topic, why the change was there an issue with the spec 2 or did you just fancy more bling.Tony
10-31-2005, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by UK952
with the white text very in an attempt to drag us back towards the topic, why the change was there an issue with the spec 2 or did you just fancy more bling.
Tony
in an attempt to drag us back towards the topic, why the change was there an issue with the spec 2 or did you just fancy more bling.Tony
Datalogging boost from the Map sensor in the AFM Link showed my boost to be fluctuating so I wanted to try another controller to check it. Also, as my turbo tends to drop boost towards redline I wanted the ability to increase the EBC duty cycle at higher revs - which the AVC-R allows - to help keep the boost up for longer.
When I got the AVC-R it showed that the Link's MAP sensor is either crap, or just over sensitive as the fluctuations in the datalogs, although a little better, are still there. Recording the boost on the AVC-R and replaying it graphically in the car shows the boost to be much more stable.
Regards
Graham
'88 Turbo S
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10-31-2005, 09:39 AM
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GPF, Kevin, thanks for your help.
Sorry I missed it, it is the Spec 2 indeed.
I have been playing with the three settings until I reached a somewhat reasonable performance, but I still felt my car somewhat slower than before. I am monitoring boost through an analog guage as well and it seemed to be building-up boost fast, but could not keep track of what the max boost reached was due to the risk involved in monitoring the guage. I need to make sure I don't exceed 1.3 Bars since my injectors will max out per what the builder (Protomotive) told me.
I need to take a closer look at "Start boost" per your comments.
I might be feeling the car slower because I was doing some acceleration runs vs. a (Dynojet) 900hp Supra and he was keeping up quite well, no one stayed so close to me before
.
Many Thanks.
Jean
Sorry I missed it, it is the Spec 2 indeed.
I have been playing with the three settings until I reached a somewhat reasonable performance, but I still felt my car somewhat slower than before. I am monitoring boost through an analog guage as well and it seemed to be building-up boost fast, but could not keep track of what the max boost reached was due to the risk involved in monitoring the guage. I need to make sure I don't exceed 1.3 Bars since my injectors will max out per what the builder (Protomotive) told me.
I need to take a closer look at "Start boost" per your comments.
I might be feeling the car slower because I was doing some acceleration runs vs. a (Dynojet) 900hp Supra and he was keeping up quite well, no one stayed so close to me before
.Many Thanks.
Jean
10-31-2005, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jean
I might be feeling the car slower because I was doing some acceleration runs vs. a (Dynojet) 900hp Supra and he was keeping up quite well, no one stayed so close to me before .
.
Regards
Graham
'88 Turbo S
