mtnman82

Hosrom (or anyone) - I placed my order at Paragon this morning, and Jason/Chuck couldn't find an oil cooler thermostat. Can you help me here? What/where is this? I did order the cooling system thermostat.

A rebuilt water pump is going to take a few days, so I have time to add/change the order. Anyone have an opinion on going with a rebuilt ($115) vs. new ($240) water pump? They both have a 1 year warranty.

Also, somewhere I read someone recommending changing out the entire automatic tensioner assembly, which is like $240. Jason at Paragon said normally that's not done, just the roller on the assembly. Correct?

I'm also waiting to hear back from Arnnworx on the tools. Here we go .....

jwlester

Thanks for keeping us up to date...I'm sure there are others like me getting ready to do the job and I will be watching intensely for updates.

thanks again, Josh

mtnman82

Glad someone might be able to use some/any of this, jwlester.

Also a bump so maybe someone can chime in on the oil pressure thermostat, rebuilt vs. new H2O pump, and tensioner assy?

Sam Lin

Don't bother to change the oil-stat, it rarely fails and only on cars that've obviously been poorly maintained.

Rebuilt is fine on the pump, but you'll get differing opinions on this one.

Just the roller on the tensioner, no reason to change the entire thing. If you're changing the entire thing you might as well as change to the older manual tensioner and make your life easier.

Sam

mtnman82

Thanks Sam!!!

951North

Ditto here...

Keep it updated please!

I'm doing a front end refreash this winter...

Thanks,

Jason

hosrom_951

mtnman82: I sent you a PM

mtnman82

Thanks Hussam!!

FYI, every/any-one, Hussam sent me a pic of where that little devil is located, which is actually on the oil cooler housing. I'll get that posted in this thread. Suggested source for this was Lindsey, and it's under $50 with a new seal, so I'm going to do it while in there.

Thanks again for the tip/info Hussam!

And, I'm glad this is turning into something useful, and will definitely keep updating!!

mtnman82

OK, I'm finally back at it again. Some delay due to figuring out what I need (parts/tools) and waiting to get them. Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions. As promised, I am attaching a pic (I believe it's a Tom M pic) of where the oil cooler thermostat is located. I am going to replace it, as hosrom suggested (what the hey - I'm there anyway).

Got the parts from Paragon last week and the tools from Arnnworx today. It took ~ a week from ordering from each place. I wound up going for the rebuilt water pump. I'll take pics as I get things apart.

I guess I'm going to start with the Balance Shaft Oil Seal Replacement procedure on Clark's Garage and go from there. Hopefully I'll get started on it later this week, or this weekend. Stay tuned ...

mtnman82

Oh, should I be sealing the camshaft too while I'm at it? I'm still wondering if the leak at/around the oil cooler isn't really from somewher above, like the cam tower gasket as Eyal suggested earlier.

I did a search on 'front, seal' and found a very complete list of parts for this job. Some of the stuff on the list I don't have yet, and some I'm not sure about, as I ordered the seal 'kits'. I'm going to go with what I have for now and order anything else I need when I come across it I guess.

mtnman82

OK, so I actually got started today (yeah!!!). Didn't have as much time as I thought I would, and didn't get as far as I had planned, but I did get the airbox/AFM assy off (I did this 1st), and then got the crank set to TDC, as confirmed by the notch on the bottom of the flywheel (looking at the bottom of the bell housing) and through the camshaft gear hole next to the distributor cap and I was actually able to find the alignment hole on the top of the bell housing and see the 'OT' and the line aligned perfectly. I did come across some trouble getting the starter heat shields off - actually just one. The heat shiled attached with the 17mm bolts and the 2 8mm bolts on the back of the starter is the one that gave me trouble. The 17mm bolt for the torque tube that is also used for this shield. That was a PITA!!! I actually wound up taking the wastegate off (and the two sections of exhaust pipe on either side of it). At least I confirmed I have a Tial wastegate. After removing the wastegate, I had room to put a box end wrench on that bolt and break it free. I was trying with a long extension and socket going to a wratchet behind the starter, but there was too much slop in the whole thing and it was starting to strip the bolt head, so I elected to remove the wategate. I gotta run, but wanted to post this real quick. I'll post some pics later.

Still wondering about getting the 'camshaft seal kit', and if that is normally part of doing the front end re-seal?

mtnman82

Got a little more done - I'll post some pics below. I'm just a few minutes away from having the belts off (well, depending on how long it takes to get the distributor cap off from what I've read in recent threads). I've only run into a couple little hassles so far (knock on wood ...): first was that I had to take the wastegate off to get to a bolt holding one of the starter heat shields - one of the torque tube bolts; second was having trouble getting the AC/alt belt off - I wound up getting it off by taking the crankshaft pulleys off(!). After the belts are off, water pump comes off, and then the 'oil cooler' housing. Pics are of the flywheel lock with the starter hanging by bailing wire, belt cover on, and belt cover off.

cheetah chrome

Thanks for posting your work/progress!!! I'm currently doing the same job along w/ a HG job (and a lil' bit of modding while I'm in there) and want to be thorough in getting all of the "while I'm in there(s)". Right now I'm pretty much at the same stage of disassembly as you but am behind in my parts ordering as far as seals go. I'll probably be calling Paragon in the next few weeks but will be keeping an eye on this thread.

cruise98

The oil thermostat is an updated part # and lowers the opening temp to 95C IIRC. THe stock is 103C IIRC. This is probably a dealer only item. I bought one from Kenn at Hennessy Porsche in Atlanta. Be sure to get the large seal ring #900.123.136.30.

The oil cooler seals are probably worth doing just for the piece of mind if nothing else. For the record, the turbo does NOT have a heat exchanger (oil cooler) in the oil filter housing like the N/A's. In it's place there is a short tube that has two o-rings on it that need to be changed to prevent the oil/water mikshake, and potential rod bearing + damage. The turbos have external oil coolers. The kit will have several parts you do not need. For the turbo, you will need the following:

1 ea. gasket 944.107.147.03 for housing
2 ea. o-rings 999.707.043.40 for connecting tube
1 ea. connecting tube 951.107.152.03 (replace if damaged)
2 ea. seal rings 900.123.011.30 for oil line adaptors (these leak if disturbed at all!)

1 ea seal N 043.815.03 for OPRV
1 ea o-ring 944.107.935.01 for OPRV
9262/1 alignment tool for late model blocks

This may not be the list you are referring to, but here it is my list anyway.

Front Engine re-seal parts list for 1987 Porsche 944/951 and later 8 valve 2.5 liter engines


Camshaft

1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (flat mylar washer) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.631.04
1 each Smooth roller 944.105.241.03
1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00


Crankshaft

1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.036.00


Balance shafts

1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (mylar, same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
2 each Woodruff key (optional) N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner roller 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
2 each Locknuts N .022.149.0
2 each Washers N .011.527.12

Water pump

1 each Water Pump 951.106.021.10
1 each Water Pump Gasket 944.106.132.04
1 each Block off plate (NA only) 944.106.313.00
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
2 each Bolt 6 x 20mm (optional) N .014.704.1
2 each Washer (optional) N .011.524.7
1 each Thermostat 944.106.019.00
1 each Support Washer 900.234.160.00
1 each T-stat O-ring 944.106.929.08 or
944.106.929.05 depends on water pump
The two items below are only required if the car has never been updated or the parts are damaged or missing
1 each Guard rail (for updated pump) 944.105.210.01
2 each Lock nuts (for guard rail) 999.084.092.02


Notes:

1. Spacers and oil pump sleeve should be replaced if they have wear grooves, or burrs which could damage a new seal. Use some fine
grade scotch brite to clean up the old ones, but replace them if in doubt.
2. The front crank seal is prone to leaking if not installed perfectly. I use an old crank gear and oil pump sleeve that I honed the center bore of to make it easy to slide on and off the crank, and use these two as spacers with the crank bolt to press the seal in squarely until flush with the oil pump face.
3. The balance shaft front housings must be removed to properly reseal them.
4. Oil seals and o–rings must be thoroughly lubricated before installation.

Have fun!

wolfenstein

i use a socket to install the crank seal-as in seal over socket then install