XP: Using bolts on the exhuast manifold instead of studs?
#1
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I'm thinking of having the studs removed from the head and using bolts instead to facilitate future maintenance. Who has done this and what grade of steel is required?
Thanks,
Thanks,
#2
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I haven't done this, but what I have done is use those saturn studs with the torx heads. That makes it much easier to remove and install them. Plus, since you're still using studs you won't have to woray about not being able to tighten things down all the way.
Gimmie a minute and I'll see if I can find the part number in case you want to do this.
Gimmie a minute and I'll see if I can find the part number in case you want to do this.
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The Saturn studs look nice. Unfortunately when I went to the Saturn dealer they only had 7 and they weren't sure when they could get an order in.
I would stick to studs as it is very important that the exhaust manifold stays tight.
I would stick to studs as it is very important that the exhaust manifold stays tight.
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I can't find the reciept right now. If you do decide that you want to use these studs let me know and I'll search around more. I'm also fairly sure that the number has been posted on rennlist.
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Would the bolts have enough clearance for you to get them out (engine in the car, of course)? When I did my rebuild, I ordered a set of nuts that fit a smaller wrench because they are supposedly easier to get off (I'm sure theres a joke to be made there to be made at my expense). They fit a M12 wrench instead of a M13 and I got them from Zimms. Good luck.
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I used generic stainless allen headed bolts. Fitted them to a few other obvious places too so matches the inlet bolts. I've had the manifolds off and on so many times in the past several years, that I think a couple of the threads may be starting to wear out. As the engine's currently out, I'll be fitting helicoils this weekend, into the head. Should be stronger and more durable too. Never had a problem with the bolts working loose and looks better I think.
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Daniel,
The headers on my car came with 12mm bolts, NO STUDS! However, there are NO exhaust header-to-cylinder head gaskets, just cheap exhaust paste (PO did something really cheap). The bolts work fine, but i am converting back to studs as the factory did. Thing is, it would be easier to install the headers and the gaskets with studs, opposed to the bolts. Why do you want to convert to bolts instead of keeping the studs?
The headers on my car came with 12mm bolts, NO STUDS! However, there are NO exhaust header-to-cylinder head gaskets, just cheap exhaust paste (PO did something really cheap). The bolts work fine, but i am converting back to studs as the factory did. Thing is, it would be easier to install the headers and the gaskets with studs, opposed to the bolts. Why do you want to convert to bolts instead of keeping the studs?
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Thing is, it would be easier to install the headers and the gaskets with studs, opposed to the bolts. Why do you want to convert to bolts instead of keeping the studs?
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If you get the Saturn studs you can take them out like bolts as needed to take the header off easily. You can also use Anti-seize on both the nuts as well as the studs where they go in the head since the studs are easily retightened periodically with the torx ends. You can also keep the studs in place while untorquing the nuts because of the torx end although with some good copper or nickel based anti-seize, you shouldn't have problems with the nuts corroding to the studs in the first place.
If you've got the time and desire, you could also drill the torx end of the studs for safety wire to keep them from loosening up since with anti-seize on the studs where they go in the head it's got the potential to back itself out more easily.
Studs on the intake are really nice too, it's quick and easy to take the intake off and put it back on when you convert to studs because the gaskets stay put where they need to be and you don't have to screw around with trying to thread the bolts, keep the manifold at the right angle, and keep 4 separate gaskets from moving around all at the same time. It's worth every penny that the studs cost.
If you've got the time and desire, you could also drill the torx end of the studs for safety wire to keep them from loosening up since with anti-seize on the studs where they go in the head it's got the potential to back itself out more easily.
Studs on the intake are really nice too, it's quick and easy to take the intake off and put it back on when you convert to studs because the gaskets stay put where they need to be and you don't have to screw around with trying to thread the bolts, keep the manifold at the right angle, and keep 4 separate gaskets from moving around all at the same time. It's worth every penny that the studs cost.
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sh944's general lee had bolts with a flanged head on them, and they are so nice when doing stuff that requires removing the exhaust. I know the copper nuts on the stock studs allow for a little bit of expansion under heat though, which the bolts probably wouldnt have.