Tom M'Guinn

I thought I'd open a thread to post the various ebbs and flows of my engine build.

I posted last night about my bore and pistons measurements. The dial bore gauge proved to be essential to get an accurate repeatable measurement on the bore. I'm taking my time to check all the measurements and clearances, mostly for educational and to get experience doing it.

Today, with the help of Crazie Eddie, we measured the main bearing clearances. The spec is .020 to .098. I used plastigauge and got within that range on all bearings -- pretty much at .051mm all all the bearings, although one may have been closer to .060 or so.

Tom M'Guinn

A bit of a set back today. One of the small M6 water pump studs snapped off on me at the base. I then pulled the classic bonehead move of snapping a bolt extractor off inside. I guess its back to the machine shop to get it out. Two steps forward, one step back....

theedge

I know that feeling, the one step forward/two steps back thing

Tom M'Guinn

Machine shop should have the snapped stud out tomorrow.

A question for you all: Carrillo says to mark the rod caps and rods, to keep them together. Ok, fine. But, they say not to use metal stamp to mark the rods/caps. How else do you mark rods/caps??

theedge

Marker pen?

MichelleJD

Are you having anything done to them? I placed mine in gallon sized glad bags and labeled them with the cylinder number.

Sam Lin

Sharpie works well if you need to mark them, otherwise just get a clean piece of cardboard, draw boxes on it and label them 1 2 3 4 and lay all your parts neatly on it. The marking certainly doesn't need to be permanent, its there for your reference when you assemble/disassemble.

Sam

Tom M'Guinn

Hmmm.... your responses make me think I was over-thinking it. These are new in the box. I thought they were suggesting that the rods be permanently marked for future reference, and I was stumped how do do that without stamping them. They probably did mean simply not to mix them up....which I think I can manage.

Tom M'Guinn

I picked up a late style oil thermostat housing today from a craigslist ad -- the kind with the bolt hole for the late style oil cooler hose with a bracket. It came with a late style OPRV. Is there any good way to test a one piece OPRV?

Tom M'Guinn

Well, the machine shop got the stud-stub out, but the block chipped a bit and they had to weld it up. Looks ugly, but its machined perfectly flat, so should be ok. Can't wait to cover it with a pump so I don't have to be reminded of it. Here are the before and after shots.

Crazy Eddie

Looks great
Now move on
Lets get that monster going

Zero10

Here here! It's much better when you can drive it

DanG

I had my bimmer down for a MONTH while I F'd around trying to get a broken M6 water outlet stud out of the block. Tried vice grips, no good. Tried dremeling a slot for a screwdriver, no good. Drilled a small hole, inserted EZ-Out, twisted, increased original bolt's "core hardness" tenfold. Went to sears, got a $40 set of their ultimate extractors, ground away enough of the old EZ-Out to give it a shot, snapped it right off again. Luckily Sears uses triple heat treated depleted-uranium in their extractors, so it only took me about 6 or 8 hours of dremeling to get that out of there. I finally got enough of it out and was able to drill out the hole to 1/4".

Ran the helicoil brand starter and end taps in and out, then twisted in a fresh helicoil and broke off the tang in a total of about 6 minutes. Helicoils ROCK!

Crazy Eddie

Luckily Sears uses triple heat treated depleted-uranium in their extractors, so it only took me about 6 or 8 hours of dremeling to get that out of there. I finally got enough of it out and was able to drill out the hole to 1/4".

Good one

Bill

DanG is wise and has sound advice.

When I come across a stud that an easy out/penitrating oil cannot remove (read: stop cranking ez out before it snaps, as it takes a LOT of torque to snap one), I also just drill out the stud and use an helicoil. A side note, when inserting the helicoil, I use locktite red on the external threads. As a precaution, after the locktite red sets and before you install the new stud, run a tap into the helicoil just in case some locktite got into the internal threads.