The KLR is a separate computer mounted along side the DME. It controls boost. It also retards timing when knock is detected. A bad one is a show stopper.

You can jumper it out to test it. Unplug the connector and get a paper clip or small piece of wire. Jump between pins 9 and 16 in the connector. The car should start. If not, the problem lies elsewhere.

I learned all this from Systems Consulting. They specialize in fixing Bosch electronics and fixed my DME. My only affiliation is that of a happy customer. www.systemsc.com

The connector is numbered such that the even numbers are in one row and the odds are in the other. Pin 1 is at the clip end. The numbers are molded into the housing.

quinnfiske:

Thanks for all the detail, I love Rennlist! I knew the KLR was a seperate chip but my recollection was that it was all on the same board (swapped in Guru chips ~1 year ago).

I'm hoping to have some time to spend on it this weekend. My first step is going to be to swap in DocWyte's DME/KLR and see if that isolates the problem, then I'll go through the board with my soldering iron and, failing that, I'll be sending it off to someone like System SC.

Thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes.

Greg

Still no joy...

I swapped in DocWyte's DME and KLR boxes today (From an '88 951S if that's signficant) and still no ignition.

To review:

1. Died at a stoplight and won't restart. It turns over fine but doesn't fire at all
2. The timing belt is intact as observed through the view hole
3. Replaced the DME relay with new
4. Checked all DME and fuel pump related fuses
5. I have spark
6. The tach needle bounces when I try to start the car (ref sensor ok I think...?)
7. There is fuel at the fuel rail
8. The car has gas in the tank(!)

Doc's DME/KLR made no difference. The only other new observation is that after cranking it over several times we pulled a plug and it appeared dry. I am not smelling gas, which I'd think I would be if the injectors were injecting fuel and there was no ignition.

So...any thoughts on what would keep all four injectors from injecting?

Thanks all, we'll keep hacking here and I promise to post the ultimate conclusion to this little mystery!

Greg

Hey there $3k Greg! The problem with you, Daniel and myself is that we live at altitutde. My guess is that the altitude compensator device is force feeding false information to the harmonic balancer which in turn causes diminished pressure in the hydraulic system that would result in excessive load on the starter. Thus .. no start! ;)

I was having similar problems and posted a thread fairly recently if you want to do a search under my sig for some more ideas. One clever idea I heard if you're just not sure about fuel flow through the injectors is to pull the fuel rail with the injectors on and crank to visually watch fuel flow. I wouldnt try it with a hot engine though. HTH

How was the gathering? Daniel I'm ready to hit the dyno whenever you are

Mike

I'm up for hitting the dyno as well. I'm very curious to see what my wett chip/3" exhaust combo is putting out...

You said you have fuel at the rail, but do you have fuel pressure? I once had a bad fuel pump (a Bosch pump like ours but a different kind of car). It squirted fuel out of the rail, but the pressure was not high enough to squirt out of the injectors. There should be something like 45psi at the cap at the front of the rail.

The belts can slip when the teeth get chewed up, and they still look OK from the outside, so check your compression.

Safety sake go with Pekster. I had the same thing happen
to me a couple of months ago. Engine would turn over fine
but will not start. After much investigation I finally saw that
the sprocket was not turning. Thank God that the valves did
not hit the pistons. After belt renewal, did a compression test
with reading at 150 psi across all 4s. Oh lets hope that your
DME is o.k. Mine died once but it was intermitent. Bought a
recondition unit from Parts Heavan

I had this happen twice, once it was a broken balance shaft belt. the second time was the reference sender.

Update: Looks like I'm in the same situation as J Chen. The belt is sitting on the sprocket but the sprocket is not turning. I'm going to pull the covers this weekend and have a look but it looks like I have a broken t-belt. I'll be thrilled if the valves aren't bent but I'm not holding my breath, looks like I have a bit of work ahead of me...

Thanks to all for the thoughts and suggestions!

Greg

i found out my problem it was a loose air flow signal wire :). let us know if it is a borken timing belt because we could have a get together or something to help you take it apart and put it together.