Modifications... where should i start?
03-27-2005, 10:52 PM
#19
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NZ: ...and cooling is so important with turbos! I'll have to convert to kW just for the coolness!
ztnedman1: like NZ said, you don't have to do the venturi delete, but before doing performance mods you should check out the conditon of the hose, tubes and fitting that live under and around the intake manifold, since this is where the critical thing called "boost" lives. Any cracked hose or broken plastic flange will make the whole boost thing work like sh*t. Any turbo over 100K miles has cooked these part and they just crack like hard candy when you try to move them. If you do have to replace them, that's when you go to the vetunri delete, just to simplify and save $$.
If actually get into modifying your 951, popping off the intake manifold a required skill and once you've done it the first time and replaced all the crap that broke when you did it, it's really just a 15 min procedure. I suggest you buy a set of intake manifold gaskets ($20?), the Lindsey intake hose kit from ($59?), and the Lindsey vaccuum tubing kit (?) then find out what's going on under there.
ztnedman1: like NZ said, you don't have to do the venturi delete, but before doing performance mods you should check out the conditon of the hose, tubes and fitting that live under and around the intake manifold, since this is where the critical thing called "boost" lives. Any cracked hose or broken plastic flange will make the whole boost thing work like sh*t. Any turbo over 100K miles has cooked these part and they just crack like hard candy when you try to move them. If you do have to replace them, that's when you go to the vetunri delete, just to simplify and save $$.
If actually get into modifying your 951, popping off the intake manifold a required skill and once you've done it the first time and replaced all the crap that broke when you did it, it's really just a 15 min procedure. I suggest you buy a set of intake manifold gaskets ($20?), the Lindsey intake hose kit from ($59?), and the Lindsey vaccuum tubing kit (?) then find out what's going on under there.
03-27-2005, 10:57 PM
#20
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Hahaha are those the really hard braided type hoses? If so i already broke one but it was where it connected to another hose so it seemed like it be no problem. Shes packing 150k miles so i guess i definatly need to check this out....
03-27-2005, 11:01 PM
#21
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ztnedman1: If you do remove the intake and remove the hoses, be VERY gentle with the Cycling Valve if you are still using it. The nipple connectors WILL break off if you are not carefull.
The rest of the hoses would literally break off once you touch them, do a search for "intake off now with pics) thread i started, shows you what kind of mess you are going to deal with, once the intake is off.
The rest of the hoses would literally break off once you touch them, do a search for "intake off now with pics) thread i started, shows you what kind of mess you are going to deal with, once the intake is off.
03-27-2005, 11:02 PM
#22
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Another question. What type of suspension do you guys recomend? I see that alot of guys here have the koni yellows, are they a really good choice for these cars? Anyone know the site or price?
Grrrr.... what i really want right now is a pair of 16x8 fuchs to put up front on my car so i can start running 245/45's all around. Anyone just selling the two rears and are planning on having them around for another few months till i got the money to buy them?
Looks like everyone whos selling the rims i want are either beat up or they are selling all four with the 7'' with the 8''.
Grrrr.... what i really want right now is a pair of 16x8 fuchs to put up front on my car so i can start running 245/45's all around. Anyone just selling the two rears and are planning on having them around for another few months till i got the money to buy them?
Looks like everyone whos selling the rims i want are either beat up or they are selling all four with the 7'' with the 8''.
03-27-2005, 11:10 PM
#23
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Get a 33/5 bias valve from paragon. If you plan on taking your car to the track. I will have pictures tomorrow from Sebring. You can see what having too much front brake looks like.
03-27-2005, 11:24 PM
#24
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Koni yellows are great, my buddy put them in his car and for the street they are awesome. They're almost as smooth riding but the car is MUCH flatter in the twisties.
-John
-John
03-27-2005, 11:38 PM
#28
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Since you are unlikely to have enough money to both upgrade the car and do ALOT of DEs. At least right now. Get koni yellows and bigger sway bars. Check your ball joints and change bushing where necessary for suspension accuracy. It would be a real sacrifice in ride quality to go with heavy front springs and a big rear torsion bar if you aren't taking your car to a race track or autocross all the time.
03-27-2005, 11:47 PM
#30
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Id rather sacrifice the ride quality. I just dont know of any of the harder suspensions and lots of people seem to have the koni yellows. Im just wondering the prices and feedback so i can decide on if the harder suspensions are worth it. Id like to make the car usable on the street but more for track use. Right now i wont have the money to go to track events but i plan on this whole project taking a couple years using my time conservatively. I plan on just taking my time and doing things right. But when shes done i want a mid powered car track car thats exteamly well tuned.