lart951

Hi Andrew, I am trying to find out where is my power going, should I get a tial wastegate before I set the car on fire?

NZ951

Well, a Tial WG has made a world of difference for many. A 38 seems to be adequate for 99% of HP goals out there. You know the turbo is capable of more, your whole setup is capable of much more. Unless the dyno was not calibrated correctly, I would say the stock WG may be the cause, but its so hard to tell when dealing with boost issues. If you plan on keeping the car, a Tial WG is a very cheap mod. What does your *** dyno tell you? Does it feel like 240 or 300?

lart951

Well I reverse the BOv the only new thing I noticed was a loud whooosssss from the BOV, if there is a increase in power I can barely feel it. I was watching the Aftermarket boost gauge and the boost was right at 17psi and than it drop maybe 2 or 3 at redline I also was watching the WB and the a/f ratio was no lower than 11:7 and no higher than 12:3 under WOT.
But my question remains the same where are my other 30hp going, could it be a collapsed down pipe? experts help please

NZ951

Ok, unless your gauges are bung, your WG is holding 15psi at redline, your AF sounds fine... so maybe timing is being pulled?

lart951

Do i have to advance my timing? is that what you mean? Talk to me like a total noob please I would take no offense feeling like one either.

Russ Murphy

What is a SFR stage 1 turbo? How happy(efficient) is it @ 17psi?

Where does your "custom 3" exhaust" start? The collapsed down pipe being referred to is the front end of the stock cat section.

Matt Sheppard

Lart

You wont be able to advance your timing yourself. Ignition timing is decided by the DME/KLR computers and is determined by the chip manufacturers settings in their tables (maps). The suggestion of reduced timing is because the KLR can retard timing when it senses knock. I dont think this is your issue though.

It still seems we are not sure if you are making the power you are expecting or not. Can you spin the tires in 2nd gear (dry pavement) if you "put your foot into it" on the upshift?

Sometimes you can bolt on all the high-HP swag and it works. Sometimes it doesnt. Taking it to a good wrench and paying them the time to shake it down would go a long way in your situation. Since this is a board kinda based on do-it-yourself, I got a great fortune cookie last night I think is appropriate in this case:

"A handful of patience is better than a bushel of brains"

. . . chill out. . ., your car runs so your ahead of the curve around here.

UK952

Check carefully for a boost leak. When my hardpipe to IC coupler was split I had compensated for it by turning up the boost, then when I finally discovered it and fixed it it max boost jumped from 16 to 25+ and i got a whole lot of power back. When it was split my BOV was also a lot louder.
Tony

TurboTim

The stage 1 turbo can be configured in a variety of ways.Typically we will use anything from a 46mm to a 50mm comp wheel and anything from a stage 2 to stage 5 turbine wheel.This turbo should easily make over 300 at the wheels at 17-18 psi.

lart951

Sometimes when I accelerate in 5th gear from about 80-120 I can hear the turbo spooling kind of loud and I don't know if it's my imagination but I feel the car pulling stronger than my 3rd gear, actually the 5th gear feels like it has more torque than 4th. Could it be that Iam running too rich? would it be safe to lean the a/f ratio between 3k-4k to 12:7-13.0?

Laust Pedersen

Lart: “actually the 5th gear feels like it has more torque than 4th”

It could be the straightforward explanation that for the same rpm you are driving faster in 5th and therefore get more air to cool the intake charge (higher air density). Running slightly rich gives you “reserve fuel” for the extra air, more oxygen/fuel combusted -> more torque (for a fixed rpm).

Laust

TurboTim

Your wide band could be off depending on where you put your probe.The wide-bands work best in a certain temperature range.It would be nice to do some testing with an EGT to find out exactly where the best spot is for the NGK and UEGO sensors.It is pretty safe to say that it is behind the turbine outlet but exactly how far away is the real question.

We have been selling and using the AEM wideband set-ups and we have had a chance to compare it to the dynos wide-band.There is a small discrepency of .5 points richer A/F when placed about 3 feet behind the turbos outlet.

lart951

Today I had the chance to dyno my car again, I increase the boost to 18psi , my a/f looks fine to me, my wastegate is holding the at least 16 psi to redline but I still got crappy results. Do you guys think is my timing? Should I change my guru chips for vittese? What else can I try? with my setup I should be running at least 300rwhp.

check the dynos

NZ951

Your AF is even a little lean... not by much though. If timing is being pulled, its not the chips fault, its that you are detonating for what ever reason. But given the AF's (even though they are leaner than some suggest) its probably not detonating, but its hard to say for sure. A way to tell is the Link Knock Block or similar product to listen for it. They are not expensive, I think even Mark was making a cheaper verson.

Hmmm the WG should be holding till redline... not bleeding off to 16psi... maybe you have a leak somewhere? You are losing 20HP in boost there.

NZ951

In fact if you fattened the fuel up top and add another 2psi, you will likely have 290HP. Do you have a plot of your boost curve?