just changed rod bearings
 

I just changed my rod bearings and I have 1 question before I put everything back together. When I turn the motor with a wrench, it starts out easy, then gets a little tight and then gets easy again. Is that normal?

Lol, yes, assuming you have the plugs in.

the plugs are out.

Well the cylinder is still moving air, but I can't say I remember, what it feels like with the plugs out. Maybe someone else will chime in.

EDIT: I've turned 944 engines over 100's of times with plugs in, only maybe 10 times w/o.

If the timing belt is still in place and turning the cam, the valve springs will give resistance as they open and close. But I've never turned mine over by hand without the plugs so I don't know for sure.

Top of the stroke - its fine. Dont keep turning it without oil pressure, man

You did use assembly lube on the bearing to journal interface didn't you? If so, you can rotate it some. The cap is on the right way, right? The numbers match up on one side. There are no gaps between the rod and cap are there? You double checked the torque, right? What do you torque to?

Sounds like you are OK, but just asking a few obvious questions first. The resistance will vary, but it should not bind. Put a torque wrench on the crank nut when you turn it and see what force is required to turn it.

I did use plenty of assembly lube. the numbers match and there are no gaps. torqued 1st to 55 lbs than to 59 lbs. got those #'s of the paragon tech site. sound ok?

Sounds like you are good to go.

My factory manual states that the "new version" nuts with the Ribbed bearing surface (p/n 928 103 172 02) are to be torqued to 75 Nm or 55 ft lbs.

It states that the 2 step torque setting (57 + 5 Nm) is only applicable to the smooth bearing surface nuts used with the sintered connected rod.

Don't know if this would make a difference.