Guru chip install question and a bunch of other Q
02-29-2004, 08:20 PM
#1
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Guru chip install question and a bunch of other Q
After installation of the chips am I supposed to adjust the FQS switch or do I leave it stock? My next question is near the computer was a closed looped wire which I disconnected or unplugged was this correct? Last, I ran a new hose from the banjo bolt directly to the wastegate. What do I do with the disconnected wastegate line going to the cycling valve and the metal line that went from the banjo bolt to the CV, do I just plug them?http://www.gururacing.net/manuals/regioncodingplug.jpg this site shows the closed loop wire
Last edited by reno928s; 02-29-2004 at 09:39 PM.
02-29-2004, 09:12 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
The FQS switch, if you want to run 15-17 psi and no changes to your timing, should be set to the totally stock 0 position on the FQS. That is fully counter clockwise and you can check and verify with a golf tee that is cut a bit to fit that triangular hole. Danno's website at Racer X has a lot of info on this. My chips can also be set to setting 5 for the same no timing changes but can then be used for 18-20psi with race gas.
Not sure about the wire. Not supposed to disconnect any to install the chips so far as I am aware. Do you remember where you heard this from?
The CV if you have disconnected it completely, can pretty much be left alone until you remove your intake, then you can remove it. You do have to close off the line that went to it on the J-pipe though so that it won't have unmetered air getting into your system.
Not sure about the wire. Not supposed to disconnect any to install the chips so far as I am aware. Do you remember where you heard this from?
The CV if you have disconnected it completely, can pretty much be left alone until you remove your intake, then you can remove it. You do have to close off the line that went to it on the J-pipe though so that it won't have unmetered air getting into your system.
02-29-2004, 10:39 PM
#3
Race Director
On the '88+ cars, you want to remove that region-coding plug jumper. WIth it on, it selects the higher-ignition map for race gas.
As for the old wastegate hose, i'd remove it along with the CV-cycling valve if you have nimble fingers, if not leave it alone, you'll break the CV if you try to remove it from the plastic ports. Yes, the CV can be removed without taking off the intake-manifold. Just need to use a small L-shaped allen-key to undo the bolts. Then tweezers and small needle-nose plyers to take it out. Then plug up the end of the hard line poking out from under the intake-manifold so it doesn't look suspicious.
As for the old wastegate hose, i'd remove it along with the CV-cycling valve if you have nimble fingers, if not leave it alone, you'll break the CV if you try to remove it from the plastic ports. Yes, the CV can be removed without taking off the intake-manifold. Just need to use a small L-shaped allen-key to undo the bolts. Then tweezers and small needle-nose plyers to take it out. Then plug up the end of the hard line poking out from under the intake-manifold so it doesn't look suspicious.
03-01-2004, 01:32 AM
#5
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<<<Last, I ran a new hose from the banjo bolt directly to the wastegate.>>>
Do you have any boost controller in that line? If you don't you won't get much boost if any. There is nothing wrong with doing that except you basically made your Turbo into an N/A.
Do you have any boost controller in that line? If you don't you won't get much boost if any. There is nothing wrong with doing that except you basically made your Turbo into an N/A.
03-01-2004, 02:09 AM
#7
Race Director
"Last, I ran a new hose from the banjo bolt directly to the wastegate."
Yeah, you'll end up with about 3-4psi of boost max. That's the most the weak stock wastegate spring will give you. Too bad Reno spent all this time installing the kit and his girlfriend won't even let him test-drive it in the end. He'll have a good time tomorrow though...
Yeah, you'll end up with about 3-4psi of boost max. That's the most the weak stock wastegate spring will give you. Too bad Reno spent all this time installing the kit and his girlfriend won't even let him test-drive it in the end. He'll have a good time tomorrow though...
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03-01-2004, 02:30 AM
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She has impeccable timing, I actually told her I had a migrain and was laying down, it wasn't all a lie, I was laying down, just under my car. The plan worked great, that is until she stopped by and saw me working on the car. I felt like a kid who got caught with his hand in the cookie jar. Anyway, tomorrow I'll test drive it , can't wait. Reno
03-01-2004, 11:06 AM
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Originally posted by Danno
On the '88+ cars, you want to remove that region-coding plug jumper. WIth it on, it selects the higher-ignition map for race gas.
On the '88+ cars, you want to remove that region-coding plug jumper. WIth it on, it selects the higher-ignition map for race gas.
Hey Danno, I left the FQS switch at 0 which i assume is ok, but i forgot about this jummper thing, is it an issue? I didnt see it when i had the plug off the DME, but i wasnt looking!!! I assume i should be able ot get to it without taking off the DME, is it just a case of removing the wire that spans the plug?
03-01-2004, 11:12 AM
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If you follow the plug from the KLR box or was it the DME box anyway, you'll see a looped wire. It has two plastic tabs on each side that must be pryed back in order to remove. Reno
Last edited by reno928s; 03-01-2004 at 11:45 AM.
03-01-2004, 11:44 AM
#12
Race Director
It actually comes off the DME box:
On non-US cars, there area actually TWO plugs that look very similar. The one closest to the DME (about 5cm) is the RegionCodingPlug and should be pulled. The one further down the harness is ImpedanceAdaptor which isn't available in the US and that should also be pulled on non-US cars.
"but i forgot about this jummper thing, is it an issue?"
Well, you'd end up with a different ignition map with more advanced timing. It would require about 98-100RON to run safely. Have you noticed any knocking or pinging? If so, I reccommend pulling both plugs.
Thanks for pointing this out guys, I'll update the instructions to be more specific as to settings in various regions of the world.
On non-US cars, there area actually TWO plugs that look very similar. The one closest to the DME (about 5cm) is the RegionCodingPlug and should be pulled. The one further down the harness is ImpedanceAdaptor which isn't available in the US and that should also be pulled on non-US cars.
"but i forgot about this jummper thing, is it an issue?"
Well, you'd end up with a different ignition map with more advanced timing. It would require about 98-100RON to run safely. Have you noticed any knocking or pinging? If so, I reccommend pulling both plugs.
Thanks for pointing this out guys, I'll update the instructions to be more specific as to settings in various regions of the world.
03-01-2004, 12:03 PM
#13
Three Wheelin'
Danno, I just installed my chips and forgot to check for the region coding plug. According to the manuals, only the California, Sweden, Swiss and Japanese market cars have the coding plug in place. The US, Canadian and ROW cars do not have the coding plug in place from the factory. Can anyone confirm this?
Car runs like a hot darn, btw! Way more drivable at lower rpm and much less turbo lag. No knocking on 94 octane, so I am guessing that the coding plug is not in place. A great big thank you from this customer!
Car runs like a hot darn, btw! Way more drivable at lower rpm and much less turbo lag. No knocking on 94 octane, so I am guessing that the coding plug is not in place. A great big thank you from this customer!
03-01-2004, 12:09 PM
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Havnt noticed any knocking, i run (97RON-86MON) fuel.. its about the best forecourt fuel we can buy in the UK.
I am sure that the plugs you talk about werent there, i might have to have another look just on case!!
I am sure that the plugs you talk about werent there, i might have to have another look just on case!!
03-01-2004, 02:33 PM
#15
Race Director
" The US, Canadian and ROW cars do not have the coding plug in place from the factory. Can anyone confirm this?"
Here's the tricky part, the '86-87 24-pin DME cars have different combinations of the region-coding + impedance-adaptor plugs than the late '88+ 28-pin cars. Here's how we want to select the lowest-ignition street-gas map on the '88+ cars.
USA: both plugs already off, so no changes needed
ROW: no RCP, pull the impedance-adaptor plug
California/Japan: pull RCP, no impedance-adaptor
Australia: pull both RCP and impedance-adaptor plug
How's the chip-kit running Don?
Here's the tricky part, the '86-87 24-pin DME cars have different combinations of the region-coding + impedance-adaptor plugs than the late '88+ 28-pin cars. Here's how we want to select the lowest-ignition street-gas map on the '88+ cars.
USA: both plugs already off, so no changes needed
ROW: no RCP, pull the impedance-adaptor plug
California/Japan: pull RCP, no impedance-adaptor
Australia: pull both RCP and impedance-adaptor plug
How's the chip-kit running Don?