Vacuum line question. Was this the problem? see thread
07-18-2019, 11:30 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hi Tom, thanks for the info. Hmmm data log....?? Ok, I'm kinda dinasaurish but not dumb. I see that LR has a data logger i will look into it.
On the other hand, I've been googling how to perform the led blinking. I get that I need an LED, 5V and connect it to the KLR port next to where I connected my Rogue/LR M-Tune setup, but what exactly is the procedure? I think I need to run the car until it has become symptomatic, then pull over to safe area without turning the car off. Then just plug in the led and start noticing count pattern? Will the KLR automatically do this and I just happen to connect the LED to see it? I think i've read that if I turn off the car this "data" will be erased. Do I have this correct? Any pointers before I do this? Also, there are no Radioshaks where I live, they went belly up. Anyone know a place where I can walk in and get one?
On the other hand, I've been googling how to perform the led blinking. I get that I need an LED, 5V and connect it to the KLR port next to where I connected my Rogue/LR M-Tune setup, but what exactly is the procedure? I think I need to run the car until it has become symptomatic, then pull over to safe area without turning the car off. Then just plug in the led and start noticing count pattern? Will the KLR automatically do this and I just happen to connect the LED to see it? I think i've read that if I turn off the car this "data" will be erased. Do I have this correct? Any pointers before I do this? Also, there are no Radioshaks where I live, they went belly up. Anyone know a place where I can walk in and get one?
07-21-2019, 12:42 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Documenting in case some poor soul has same problem. I will get to the bottom of this.....
Today I measured the resistance between the spades on the DME water temp sensor on a cold engine. It measured 1,400 ohms. Drove it around until it became symptomatic. Its uncanny how engine temp is at normal temp even in a hot day but only becomes symptomatic when engine bay gets hot. Anyway at about 80*C (corresponds to the first thin line at bottom of gauge in car), the sensor spades read at 254 ohms! So, Cold= 1,400 ohm Hot= 254 ohms.
Also, before i did the hot reading, I disconnected the temp sensor while idling. I thought it was suppose to immediately die but it didn't. It actually revved up for about 6 seconds before it started to have an irregular idle. I turned it off. felt like I could be fubaring something. I reconnected sensor and car would not start! Dammit!! Don't know if this helped but I disconnected battery and waiting 15min. Reconnected battery and engine would just barely "catch". Felt like it was running on two cylinders-idling at about 200! I gave it gas and the smell of crude fuel came out the back. Must have been the over-rich condition from the initial disconnection of the sensor. I think its safe to say my DME sensor is working. Whew!!
Well, I am awaiting the blinking LED light to come. Ordered in online, should get it on Thurs.
Stay tuned! :-)
Jaime
Today I measured the resistance between the spades on the DME water temp sensor on a cold engine. It measured 1,400 ohms. Drove it around until it became symptomatic. Its uncanny how engine temp is at normal temp even in a hot day but only becomes symptomatic when engine bay gets hot. Anyway at about 80*C (corresponds to the first thin line at bottom of gauge in car), the sensor spades read at 254 ohms! So, Cold= 1,400 ohm Hot= 254 ohms.
Also, before i did the hot reading, I disconnected the temp sensor while idling. I thought it was suppose to immediately die but it didn't. It actually revved up for about 6 seconds before it started to have an irregular idle. I turned it off. felt like I could be fubaring something. I reconnected sensor and car would not start! Dammit!! Don't know if this helped but I disconnected battery and waiting 15min. Reconnected battery and engine would just barely "catch". Felt like it was running on two cylinders-idling at about 200! I gave it gas and the smell of crude fuel came out the back. Must have been the over-rich condition from the initial disconnection of the sensor. I think its safe to say my DME sensor is working. Whew!!
Well, I am awaiting the blinking LED light to come. Ordered in online, should get it on Thurs.
Stay tuned! :-)
Jaime
Last edited by ttAmerica RoadsterAWD; 07-21-2019 at 01:15 AM.
07-21-2019, 08:40 AM
#18
Drifting
My understanding is that's low? Shouldn't it be reading double that for each temp?
FYI 12v LEDs can be found easily at local "electronics supply" stores... places that sell fix-it parts for computers, rc toys, connectors, bulk wire, etc
FYI 12v LEDs can be found easily at local "electronics supply" stores... places that sell fix-it parts for computers, rc toys, connectors, bulk wire, etc
07-21-2019, 01:18 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hey Dan, well I just cross referenced with Clark's. You are right! I'll change this out for a new one. I was stuck on a fellow on youtube that said a decrease in resistance means its functioning correctly. Hopefully I can get this going then. Yay!!
07-21-2019, 06:19 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
When my coil was going the car popped a lot. Then is stopped completely. Thank goodness I ness up the block from my home. Poor vacuum line caused my car to run terrible and not idle well. I have blown the intercooler pipe off too. Car had zero power. Also have the shift linkage come off. Easy fix there. I have a lift at home, so most are no issue if I have to go under the car. So far, car has been great for 10 years and I expect it to be good for many more. Venturi Delete is a good way to go.
07-23-2019, 02:00 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hi Stephen, yes I purchased and replaced all things electronic from new coil to spark plugs, all new. Already got rid of the extra vacuum hoses with delete kit. changed out all vacuum hoses with new silicone ones. Car runs great when ambient temp is in the 70's. But when the outside temp hits the mid 90's it runs like crap. Thanx for the help :-)
Jaime
Jaime
07-24-2019, 10:50 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
-update:
Today I could barely get up over a hill. Car sputtered, coughed, pulled back. Kept the car on, connected the LED for KLR code...... NO blinking! The LED had a faint green hue with very faint flickering, but no definite pattern. On the other hand, when I turned off the engine and then only turned on the ignition the LED was VERY BRIGHT green. I think I'm good knowing there were no codes blinked, so KLR should be ok and not the problem.
Got back in the car, this time with tools on hand. Drove it again until it was again symptomatic. Just as it coughed, sputtered, farted and having no guts, I checked the good ol' fashion way. I immediately turned off the car on a sleepy road, popped the hood and took off all 4 spark plugs. #1 was "ok", #2, #3 and #4 were covered in soot and threads were wet. I have an engine management problem. When the car gets hot it runs rich!! Now to find what is not being communicating. BTW, I have newly placed LR M-tune (formerly Rogue) with all the goodies. Not saying this is the problem but now I've got to start looking for stuff that create a rich running condition....
Today I could barely get up over a hill. Car sputtered, coughed, pulled back. Kept the car on, connected the LED for KLR code...... NO blinking! The LED had a faint green hue with very faint flickering, but no definite pattern. On the other hand, when I turned off the engine and then only turned on the ignition the LED was VERY BRIGHT green. I think I'm good knowing there were no codes blinked, so KLR should be ok and not the problem.
Got back in the car, this time with tools on hand. Drove it again until it was again symptomatic. Just as it coughed, sputtered, farted and having no guts, I checked the good ol' fashion way. I immediately turned off the car on a sleepy road, popped the hood and took off all 4 spark plugs. #1 was "ok", #2, #3 and #4 were covered in soot and threads were wet. I have an engine management problem. When the car gets hot it runs rich!! Now to find what is not being communicating. BTW, I have newly placed LR M-tune (formerly Rogue) with all the goodies. Not saying this is the problem but now I've got to start looking for stuff that create a rich running condition....
