Guess time for new clutch.. UGH!
UGH! Clutch just went South
Damnit First day weather nice enough to drive in two+ weeks since put in new axles/CVs too :( Coincidentally was just looking online how to change one out, alas, with so much going on right now and with it 25+ miles from house (considering towing cost), time it takes for swap when never having done to a 944 before, I am going to let the professionals do it. Waiting on tow truck now. Was in 2nd gear, around 2,000 RPMS and accelerating in 2nd gear, floored it and about 3,000 RPM went CLUNK!! |
UPDATE
YAY! Just got back from the shop, RAC Performance here in Dallas, got it up on the lift and the left inner CV (brand new), the bearing carrier broke! Not good but better than having to replace clutch! |
Originally Posted by finally!
(Post 15704015)
UPDATE
YAY! Just got back from the shop, RAC Performance here in Dallas, got it up on the lift and the left inner CV (brand new), the bearing carrier broke! Not good but better than having to replace clutch! |
Originally Posted by MAGK944
(Post 15704045)
Did you go cheap or did you fit GKN/Loebro CV’s? I’ve not heard good things about the cheap axles. |
You went cheap. Get a decent CV.
|
Worth consideration also are the known failures related to improper installation.
|
Originally Posted by Gage
(Post 15705357)
Worth consideration also are the known failures related to improper installation.
|
Originally Posted by finally!
(Post 15705652)
what improper installation issues?
1. Don't buy cheap (O’Reily/Autozone,etc), buy genuine GKN/Loebro parts. 2. Repack the joints with quality grease, leave the boots empty to allow for expansion. 3. Clock the CV joints correctly to the axles to allow maximum articulation (google if you don’t know how to do this). 4. Impeccably clean the axle bolt threads and use new bolts torqued to the correct spec with a quality tool and no Loctite. 5. Inspect, repack and rotate the axles occasionally to improve their life, I do mine on every belt change which is also about the same time I change my transmission oil. |
Originally Posted by MAGK944
(Post 15705724)
How to do CV joints the right way: 1. Don't buy cheap (O’Reily/Autozone,etc), buy genuine GKN/Loebro parts. 2. Repack the joints with quality grease, leave the boots empty to allow for expansion. 3. Clock the CV joints correctly to the axles to allow maximum articulation (google if you don’t know how to do this). 4. Impeccably clean the axle bolt threads and use new bolts torqued to the correct spec with a quality tool and no Loctite. 5. Inspect, repack and rotate the axles occasionally to improve their life, I do mine on every belt change which is also about the same time I change my transmission oil. |
I do not know what type of driving you do, but if it includes a lot of track days you may want to consider these.
https://www.stage8.com/cv-joint-locking-bolt-kits/ |
You may as well order the parts now for the other side.
Genuine joints aren't that expensive. It just requires the time investment of taking the axle apart and swapping them. |
Originally Posted by odonnell
(Post 15715344)
You may as well order the parts now for the other side.
Genuine joints aren't that expensive. It just requires the time investment of taking the axle apart and swapping them. |
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