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yes, comes with cd with detailed instructions and there are many here as well
I currently have LR mtune and while I got it working within reason, I'm still not fully satisfied. I'm curious on potentially trying another route but I'd like to see the official install guide on vmaf+ so I know exactly what all I'm getting into and how invasive it is in case I'd want to reverse it at a later point. Hopefully not the case though.
BTW once the Vitesse MAF is installed properly, I doubt you'll want to remove it.
That's definitely my goal, to get a maf kit that behaves smoothly not only during pulls but in everyday driving. Warm starts, cold starts, idling, rev drop, etc. I want the maf to feel like a modern maf should without oddities. It should feel like a factory part. One of my biggest complaints with my lr mtune currently is cold starts. Right after a cold start, if you rev the motor. The car does this odd slow dropping rpm hangup from just under 2000 rpm back down to a normal idle. It only happens on a cold start. Once the car goes into closed loop and is up to temp, the slow idle drop goes away. The next thing I'm seeing is when you're driving and throw the car in neutral. The rpms quickly drop to idle like normal but before it does it bucks at 1200 rpm then drops slowly to idle. This is just an annoyance and feels unnatural. I've gone through the ringer to make sure the issue is not a problem with my car, which included a 100% bare block up rebuild, and new complete engine DME harness, 3 DME computers, and new klr. Every wire and sensor.
That's definitely my goal, to get a maf kit that behaves smoothly not only during pulls but in everyday driving. Warm starts, cold starts, idling, rev drop, etc. I want the maf to feel like a modern maf should without oddities. It should feel like a factory part. One of my biggest complaints with my lr mtune currently is cold starts. Right after a cold start, if you rev the motor. The car does this odd slow dropping rpm hangup from just under 2000 rpm back down to a normal idle. It only happens on a cold start. Once the car goes into closed loop and is up to temp, the slow idle drop goes away. The next thing I'm seeing is when you're driving and throw the car in neutral. The rpms quickly drop to idle like normal but before it does it bucks at 1200 rpm then drops slowly to idle. This is just an annoyance and feels unnatural. I've gone through the ringer to make sure the issue is not a problem with my car, which included a 100% bare block up rebuild, and new complete engine DME harness, 3 DME computers, and new klr. Every wire and sensor.
Email Sent.
Your after cold-start behaviour sounds like a modern car to me; it's exactly what my wife's car does. A stock 944 / 951 has the 1200rpm blip: the DME cuts fuel on deceleration but kicks it back in around 1200rpm. In fact, there's diagnostic info regarding this: if it bucks too much, idle is set too high and if not enough, idle is too low. See page 33 of the official diagnostic test plan: http://www.arnnworx.com/download/DME_KLR_Test_Plan.pdf
Looks like the LR M-Tune retains this fuel cut / return
Your after cold-start behaviour sounds like a modern car to me; it's exactly what my wife's car does. A stock 944 / 951 has the 1200rpm blip: the DME cuts fuel on deceleration but kicks it back in around 1200rpm. In fact, there's diagnostic info regarding this: if it bucks too much, idle is set too high and if not enough, idle is too low. See page 33 of the official diagnostic test plan: http://www.arnnworx.com/download/DME_KLR_Test_Plan.pdf
Looks like the LR M-Tune retains this fuel cut / return
Whatever they have, retained or modified, it doesn't feel normal. The car had none of those oddities before switching from the afm. I even installed my old setup again and the issues went away. Reinstall mtune and it returns. I'm not bashing mtune it just doesn't feel right to me. I've set the idle to the exact rpm the dme sees using the logger. I'm over 2 years of trying to get lr mtune to be smoother on my car. Fully rebuilt engine, harness, every sensor and seal. Just no cigar.
Your after cold-start behaviour sounds like a modern car to me; it's exactly what my wife's car does. A stock 944 / 951 has the 1200rpm blip: the DME cuts fuel on deceleration but kicks it back in around 1200rpm. In fact, there's diagnostic info regarding this: if it bucks too much, idle is set too high and if not enough, idle is too low. See page 33 of the official diagnostic test plan: http://www.arnnworx.com/download/DME_KLR_Test_Plan.pdf
Looks like the LR M-Tune retains this fuel cut / return
I've seen a M-tune cars exhibit that odd rpm idle hanging, and it wasn't an intentional feature or the result of an improperly set idle screw. There were several threads about it back when m-tune was in it's heyday, and Josh would generally step up and work to address it. For example:
Hmm.. that referenced thread suggests other issues highlighted by the new equipment.. or further fiddling required. I'm guessing Josh isn't as available now that his stuff is sold at LR? Maybe the LR folks can help?
All I know is my stock 951 blips (surges) a bit around 1200rpm, making it slightly annoying to, say, accelerate around a right turn in second gear then immediately slow down to turn into a laneway. Every single day lol
If I adjust the idle screw too far in, it drops dangerously below the idle point, almost stalling before bouncing back up. I chalk this "choice" (surge vs stall) up to the 80s electronics, of which any modern chip installed in these cars must rely on...
Last edited by Dan Martinic; 02-18-2019 at 02:42 PM.
Reason: Grammar
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I chalk this "choice" (surge vs stall) up to the 80s electronics, of which any modern chip installed in these cars must rely on...
Vitesse MAF uses the stock DME/KLR with none of the issues. So assuming it's the "80's electronics" is not a correct statement. There is always a reason.
Got my new vitesse vmaf+ and momonitor enthusiast logger installed over last weekend. Absolutely a superior system to lr mtune. Night and day difference in stability and smoothness. Thank you.
There is a reason John has so many fans on here. Vitesse stuff just plain works and holds up over time. One of the things we've seen repeatedly in the 951 marketplace over the years (and I have logged about 25 years worth of experience so far with 951's) is that there always seems to be the "next greatest thing" or vendor that comes along and everyone raves about them for a little while, but very very few stand the test of time. Autothority used to be the bomb, then along came Guru and numerous others. John and Vitesse is one that's been proven to be able to last. I have been running my Vitesse Stage II turbo, MAF and camshaft for somewhere around ten years now and it STILL performs great, even with the older chipset and 55lb injectors. I am very tempted to upgrade to the latest versions but I'm not sure there's a good reason to do so since my car runs so well as is.
In midst of install of Vitesse MAF and other items.. FINALLY got intake to fit but am stuck on hoses and instructions are lacking. In theses photos, where do the go from>to? the instructions I have are not clear and photos not as well on what goes where. HELP?
Other items being installed are: Injectors Swapping in 3 bar FPR
VITESSE modified OEM wastgate Vitesse chip
02-15-2019, 01:08 PM
