AlphaOmegaPower

For those who have a dry sump system, please post photos you have of engine bays(dry sump related) and your oil reservoir tank.

333pg333

Well clearly we have 'stuff' on the other side of the car but some of it will be in context for you. Most of these pics are pretty old and some changes have been made along the way. We swapped to a Peterson pump although the Aviaid is probably fine. We are seeing over 2.2 lateral G's on one particular corner and even with the d/sump, we had momentary oil starvation so we've modified one of the scavenges by running a tube across to the other side of the pan. Canted over motors and long left handers aren't a perfect condition. Especially with high downforce.

AlphaOmegaPower

Thanks Patrick. Scary as this sounds this will be on a street engine. Emailed you about it a while ago. The goal is to be able to buy 7,500rpm safely and repeatedly.
Was the issue you had due to the pan angle?

AlphaOmegaPower

Assuming all your alternator mounting is custom.

AlphaOmegaPower

Also what is your tanks capacity?

333pg333

You could probably get away without a dry sump if all the supporting parts to the motor were built for 7500rpm but it's a nice bit of extra insurance. Obviously the main issue these motors face is with oil starvation under high g loads through long sweeping corners (mostly LH) and wide sticky tyres. It's unlikely that you will produce these conditions on the road but again, nice insurance all the same. As noted, even with the d/sump we saw momentary loss of oil pressure on this kind of corner but we're also seeing much higher g loads than a street car is going to see. We've added the tube on one of the scavenges to go across to the other side of the pan for this situation.

Yes, smaller alternator and different mount. There's a long thread about that which I'm sure you've seen. I got my bracket through CEP.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...the-point.html

Not sure on the capacity of the tank. It would either be 4 or 5 gallon. As yours is a road car you can run a smaller tank and probably where you guys have your batteries located. You're oil won't get nearly as hot as on the track and therefore shouldn't need such a large tank. Plus you have to install it somewhere and assume you won't be mirroring our position.
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/tank_stand.html

AlphaOmegaPower

You have a PM to fill you in on what is going on.

Thanks for the link. That smaller capacity is just what I need. Should save me some money......after all this I will need to.
Seems the idea is to keep the close to the engine.
You do not use a filter on your turbo?

333pg333

PM received and replied. Sounds like a Hella build! That pic was just on an engine stand many years ago. Most def use a filter as you can see. It's sealed in it's own box which I can't quite find a pic of but you get the drift.

Paulyy

I've been told by a few reliable people that the stock pump is no good at over 7k rpm. I planned to push the motor to 7500 with current setup but i got told don't do it with out proper oiling.

Tsmith84

What do you need to do with the stock pump when fitting the dry sump?

V2Rocket

How do you tension the pump belt?

333pg333

I'd believe that. Even though some have got away with using stock components on track cars I have found that there are some parts that just have to be replaced with something larger, superior and contemporary. Not to shoot down stock parts but they were designed decades ago for a lot less hp than people are seeing nowadays.

Remove/block.

Good question. I think from recollection you can move the pump on the mounting bracket. But it's been ages since I looked at that.

Paulyy

[QUOTE=333pg333;13052854]I'd believe that. Even though some have got away with using stock components on track cars I have found that there are some parts that just have to be replaced with something larger, superior and contemporary. Not to shoot down stock parts but they were designed decades ago for a lot less hp than people are seeing nowadays.


The stock pump is good for what it is. But yes, for pushing these cars to that limit past 7k rpm. ive been told it will suffer from cavitation which i do believe. I dont know anyone going past 7k on the track?? you might.

When my oil pump was out, i looked at if there's a way to modify it to pump more oil.
Not much you can do with it really.

nick_968

Is anyone managing to get their power to hold (not drop off) over 6k rpm as it seems to be a real problem with the 8v head...particularly on my 3.0? Does it make it worth risking it to such high rpms or spending out on a dry sump unless you have a 16v engine?

AlphaOmegaPower

I think the whole build has to compliment the rpms. I was asked before I started anything how high I was going to rev. That was the first question.