86’ 951 – Rouge A Tune, NO STRAT if I put stock chip back
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
86’ 951 – Rouge A Tune, NO STRAT if I put stock chip back
Recently upgraded it to A Tune purchased from Dave @ LR. Along with 3” exhaust, Tial 38 WG with 14.7 psi spring and 3 bar BOSCH FPR.
My mechanic is telling me car runs before boost worse than what it did in stock set up before upgrades. WOT in second gear at 2,000 rpm – happens nothing. Like it’s 120 HP car. Car runs very, very sluggish off boost – from take off to approximately 2,800 – 3,000 rpm. Once boost kicks in, boost is there, and holds well above what would the stock WG with CV allow. But, even at boost, top power is maybe at what be stock 951 performance and nowhere near where it should be with chip’d DME and all other upgrades. My buddy who raced 951 locally in Regional Series in GT3 class tried it also – confirmed no power at all before boost.
So, I went to revert everything back to stock DME set up. Now, with board set up for A Tune, when I put the stock chip back car won’t start. I did not tinker around the bridged board with jumper wire on B700 location. Do I need to cut that jumper?
Will call Dave tomorrow but hoping someone else had to do this before. Checked lots of posts about A Tune and couldn’t find anything about reversal back to stock chip. As for the A Tune install, I see no issues. MAP wiring checks out as it should; Ground on BLACK, 1.59 V on GREEN and 5.04 V on RED when MAP connected and engine running idle. Board converted to 28 pin DME, resistor removed, jumper wire soldered on.
My mechanic is telling me car runs before boost worse than what it did in stock set up before upgrades. WOT in second gear at 2,000 rpm – happens nothing. Like it’s 120 HP car. Car runs very, very sluggish off boost – from take off to approximately 2,800 – 3,000 rpm. Once boost kicks in, boost is there, and holds well above what would the stock WG with CV allow. But, even at boost, top power is maybe at what be stock 951 performance and nowhere near where it should be with chip’d DME and all other upgrades. My buddy who raced 951 locally in Regional Series in GT3 class tried it also – confirmed no power at all before boost.
So, I went to revert everything back to stock DME set up. Now, with board set up for A Tune, when I put the stock chip back car won’t start. I did not tinker around the bridged board with jumper wire on B700 location. Do I need to cut that jumper?
Will call Dave tomorrow but hoping someone else had to do this before. Checked lots of posts about A Tune and couldn’t find anything about reversal back to stock chip. As for the A Tune install, I see no issues. MAP wiring checks out as it should; Ground on BLACK, 1.59 V on GREEN and 5.04 V on RED when MAP connected and engine running idle. Board converted to 28 pin DME, resistor removed, jumper wire soldered on.
#3
Weird that it wont start after going back to stock?
This Rogue/Lindsey stuff seems to be quite finicky. I'm sure there a simple explanation, but it'll take time to find it which is annoying. Joshua would be the guy to speak to, but he's not the easiest guy to get in touch with.
I've spent my whole summer trying to sort out my car(Rogue M-tune), the track season has been a write off for me so far, which is NOT fun. It's actually made me hate my car, and I've even thought about buying a Corvette(gasp!)
I hope you get your car sorted. Feel free to PM me, maybe we can have a phone conversation about it.
This Rogue/Lindsey stuff seems to be quite finicky. I'm sure there a simple explanation, but it'll take time to find it which is annoying. Joshua would be the guy to speak to, but he's not the easiest guy to get in touch with.
I've spent my whole summer trying to sort out my car(Rogue M-tune), the track season has been a write off for me so far, which is NOT fun. It's actually made me hate my car, and I've even thought about buying a Corvette(gasp!)
I hope you get your car sorted. Feel free to PM me, maybe we can have a phone conversation about it.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Tedro, Darren,
So, OK, to clarify.
- I have driven the car with the A Tune. Also, my mechanic did and my buddy who raced the 951 in GT3 Series / GT Challenge with CASC.
- Sluggish off boost – big times. We all agree.
- I wanted to put stock chip back to confirm off boost response in OE set up.
- Put the OE chip back and car does not start.
- Put back the A Tune chip, after trial with the OE one, and car starts no problem.
Looks like you can’t go back to stock chip that easy after A Tune DME conversion???
So, OK, to clarify.
- I have driven the car with the A Tune. Also, my mechanic did and my buddy who raced the 951 in GT3 Series / GT Challenge with CASC.
- Sluggish off boost – big times. We all agree.
- I wanted to put stock chip back to confirm off boost response in OE set up.
- Put the OE chip back and car does not start.
- Put back the A Tune chip, after trial with the OE one, and car starts no problem.
Looks like you can’t go back to stock chip that easy after A Tune DME conversion???
#5
you didn't install the jumper thingy did you?
My guess is you're MAP sensor is wired incorrectly or faulty. Sounds like the timing is being retarded in a big way.
Or the vacuum/boost signal is not correct.
My guess is you're MAP sensor is wired incorrectly or faulty. Sounds like the timing is being retarded in a big way.
Or the vacuum/boost signal is not correct.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Nope, I actually didn't get it all as Dave forgot to put it in the box LOL... So, I am not retarding timing by that jumper : ) block
As far as I see things nothing wrong with the MAP wiring, all check steps confirmed.Not sure how to confirm if MAP is sending faulty signal.
The only value I found is voltage at idle for low elevation locations, like Toronto, and it checks out at 1.59 V. So, at idle, MAP sends good signal out to DME...
As far as I see things nothing wrong with the MAP wiring, all check steps confirmed.Not sure how to confirm if MAP is sending faulty signal.
The only value I found is voltage at idle for low elevation locations, like Toronto, and it checks out at 1.59 V. So, at idle, MAP sends good signal out to DME...
#7
Rennlist Member
Please enlighten me on the B700 jumper. I've run A-tune and M-tune but never heard anything about this jumper. There is a resistor that needs to be cut to get the MAP signal into the DME, and another resistor that needs to be cut if you're running the Zeitronix WBO2 signal into the DME for the logger, but those are the only mods I ever had to make.
Are you using the stock FPR when using the stock chip?
In the past I've gone between A-tune and stock chips with no issue, changing the FPR out. Are you putting the stock chip directly into the DME socket - i.e. not putting the stock chip into the Rogue adapter board?
Are you using the stock FPR when using the stock chip?
In the past I've gone between A-tune and stock chips with no issue, changing the FPR out. Are you putting the stock chip directly into the DME socket - i.e. not putting the stock chip into the Rogue adapter board?
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#8
Drifting
I don't know what's up with your setup, but I've been dreaming to get the A-Tune with the intention to keep all else stock. Perhaps the combination of other upgrades is messing it up somehow?
In any case, if you're interested in selling your A-Tune, drop me a PM. I'm also in Toronto
In any case, if you're interested in selling your A-Tune, drop me a PM. I'm also in Toronto
#9
Rennlist Member
If you already have a 28 pin DME then the jumper is factory installed. DME conversion instructions are on the LR website.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone on advise. B700 jumper had to be cut. Car is running now again on stock chip.
Still some work to do to sort out what is going on.
Still some work to do to sort out what is going on.