When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got my phone dials painted. I'm going to burn these tires up under transaxle power. It's been 2 years since I parked a perfectly fine driving and running 944. 7 months of that time I completely ignored the car. I will never take on a project of this magnitude again on my main ride, it's just too hard... but I think when it's driving (hopefully in a few weeks), it'll be grins all day long.
Gone are the days of gravel & mud. This life is way too hard on a car you want to keep for ever. I have mud and bits of rust in places I still need to deal with. You never really get your vehicle back to "super clean" status. Those who've done 4x4ing know what I'm talking about!
This Rally was one in brutal terrain that challenged my driving skills not just to make decent time, but to actually stay on the road and keep the rubber side down!!
It was an immense pleasure working with co-driver D'Arcy Smith. With his mad Navigation skills were able to hold onto 2nd place in our division. People slipped off the greasy mountain back roads & tore up their chassis, but I think D'Arcy, I and 30 year of Wilson did really well.
Ok. It is too early to celebrate.
I'm elated to announce that I was able to (with the assistance of a propane torch and 36" snip on a 3/4"/19mm ratchet) break loose the "ride height" nuts on the rear suspension control arms. This allowed me to drop the passenger side rear suspension. Hopefully I can budge the drivers side also.
This will allow me to increase the driver's road visibility.
This will improve the aerodynamics
This will improve the handling.
There were the 2 fasteners here. After lowering from jack stands I measured (at sill) an even 7" front/rear on pass side and 7" front/7.4" rear on drivers. The car has a full gas tank and is relatively operating weight. Should I account for drivers weight or try to make it even?
Taking time away from engine to get closure on Wilson's seatbelt situation, I decided to do like the factory did & mount the inside belt to the seat frame.
Below a couple glamour shots, as I need to move the car a bit to finish up the doors & want to clean the garage floor. Thankfully my neighbours will help me push it in.
Oh I suppose it is irresponsible of me not to mention the new seatbelt mount is also welded to the seat base (in an effort to avoid excess pulling forces on the bolt heads - if and when the seat belt is being used in an impact). after the mounts were back in, I was able to fully mount the seats with belt & then install the 5 pieces of 36" /1 metre LongAcre rollbar padding. It appears I need 3 more lengths of padding. (by the way-you guys win! I will be installing the padding to the cage "kneebar". The passenger side definitely needs it. Then for the first time I was able sit with a helmet in the drivers seat (after padding install) and test for headroom and also work the peddles (since the clutch and brakes are finally bled). I'm happy to announce there is *just* enough head room to rotate (shoulder check and view side mirrors etcetera), The peddles feel pretty good (remember the 3" rearward extensions to accommodate the seat being mounted way back. I can operate them and do "heel-toe" but I think I'll be adding a 19mm extension after I have this engine purring.
On the late model they went from 4x M6mm bolts to 6x M8, reinforced the floor & made the inside seatbelt receptible attached to the mount. I tried looking up the FIA article I was following but can't seem to find it. Its been like 2 years since I read it & now it seems like I confused seat belt mounting with seat mounting rules. Okay You guys win, I'm wrong! I will change the seatbelt mount. Thank you!!
Here's the intake manifold support bracket I made.
Here's the heat reflective material to protect the hood paint.
Here's the upper rad clamp I made today. So pleased with the quick serviceability. And also love the look. Sometimes I fail, but my goal is to always make the car easy (easier) to work on. An effort was also made to not allow metal contact between rad & chassis (as I understand it's create problems for engine cooling system if electrical continuity is present.
Weird looking car at this stage but the Intercooler is now fully installed & I tied in the headlight vertical adjustment bar (that's the square aluminum tube across the top) and also tied into the front tubular crossmember which is tied into the hood via pins. The result is a very lightweight monocoque like stiffness. There is clearance for the front bumper to absorb impact and avoid damaging engine related components. I will be adding ducting on the front end to help guide air through the rad and a/c condenser but leave the rear free-flow so the air can go where it wants after. Hoping I don't have to cut sheet metal for more vents.
I'd re think your cooling setup. You're really going to get minimal air flow to that IC.
even with ducting, you're making the air turn over 100 deg just to reach your ic.
To make your setup effective, your radiator needs to be on the opposite angle. Bottom more forward and top more back towards the motor.
The ic will then need to be a similar angle of the radiator currently, maybe more. That would be a V mount. What you've got is the complete opposite
You need something like this
What you've got is something like this but the IC at the wrong angle and you wont get air to it.
Yes Paulyy, 100% agree that your example is the way to do it right. My research lead me to the same conclusion.
However, I'm only running 10 lbs of boost so I think this will suffice.
I'm painfully trying to make a generic ebay turbo kit work with my car and the supplied intercooler just doesn't fit well.
But I'm expecting it to do well until I turn the car into a 300+ hp monster.
Then I will do something differently.
Thank for your diagram, that's cool beans bro!
07-10-2018, 09:33 AM
