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Well, I passed but just barely. I asked for a pre-check which they were happy to do (and charge me 2X for testing twice) but maybe that was a mistake. The pre-test results were notably better than the official test.
Secifics for test: stock '89 chip, 3/8 tank of Chevron 91 octane, one bottle of Chevron complete fuel system cleaner, drove car around for about 25 minutes including about 15 minutes steady state ~65-70mph, pulled straight into smog test and they pulled the car up almost immediately, I'd say ~ 5 minutes from pulling in to the pre-test. Results were:
Then about a 10-15 minute wait for the actual test (I believe he was entering in all the visual stuff which he did check, he had the hood open, checked the emissions sticker, took the gas cap off, ...) this was the result:
So I did pass, but not by much. HC at idle on the second run were almost at the limit... The CAT is ~10 years old, the CA legal Fabspeed unit. He did leave the sniffer probe in the tailpipe the whole time. The test took place in a single bay area but it did have openings (doors, garage door) on all sides. It was the bay right next to the office so I got to watch. The fact that he started to run the second test gave me a good indication and good feeling.
Any thoughts on the numbers and how things changed between the two runs would be helpful, both to me and for posterity of the forum.
Now time to install the Vitesse updates from John's winter sale and have some fun driving it around!
They are suppose to charge 1/2 the cost of a smog test for a pre smog test. You can call up BARand ask them or report them. But I've never paid the full price for a pre smog, only half. Anyways good deal on passing.
They are suppose to charge 1/2 the cost of a smog test for a pre smog test. You can call up BARand ask them or report them. But I've never paid the full price for a pre smog, only half. Anyways good deal on passing.
In the past, at other garages, when I've asked for a pre-test if it was going to pass they would just run the official test and only charge me for the one test. If I was going to fail, they would charge me for the test and then when I went back charge me a reduced re-test rate. I've used this garage before for smogging some of my other cars but this was the first time taking the 951 in, so I asked for the pre-test mainly to see if they were going to fail me on anything visual. I like the garage so it's all good. I hope they stay around, and next time I'll just go for it and if they make a stink over anything visual I can honestly say it wasn't a problem the last time I brought it through. The rates are posted right on the wall - pre-test and re-test same as the regular test, and he told me up front what it was going to cost. It's a small town I live in so finding a place willing to work with you is somewhat of a rarity.
So looking at this a little more, I'm wondering if there isn't something else going on... What would cause the co2% to go from 0.03 to 0.32 @2500 rpm over the course of 10~15 minutes?
in addition to what you did i like to find a looong steep hill without any traffic, start at the bottom and get into 4th gear and floor it say 45-85mph, slow down and repeat...lots of load = lots of heat, cat works great.
waiting between tests accounts for much of the difference as the cat cools off.
I notice that your idle is within spec but on the lower side. I'm at 880rpm on the most recent test. Though I did the procedure for setting idle, it's kind of mute as the ICV ultimately sets it (I'm still a little confused about the function of the idle screw, given the ICV is the boss). I set it so there's no change between ICV on or off, and I get a nice smooth drop of rpm without any funny low-dipping.
Spencer - I'm up in the high desert, and no hills where I can approach highway speeds. In two years I'll try to remember to warm up under good load prior to pulling into the test.
Dan, I'll post my test results from my past smog tests later tonight. If I recall correctly the CO #'s have always been in the single digits, but HC have crept up over the years.
I set the idle before the test. The tach shows ~1000 rpm and I lowered it as much as I could jumpering test ports A & C and using the screw on top of the throttle body. I wanted it at 850, per spec. Apparently my tach reads a couple hundred rpm high... Yes, the Idle Stabilizer Valve (is that what you meant by ICV?) is relatively new. I found the old stock one leaking when checking for boost leaks. Even the new one seems to leak some. I think jumpering test ports A & C disables the ISV.
I think all the tachs read high; I’ve yet to see one indicating 800-something rpm! They all read around 900-1000.
Mine floats at 950 or so. Mind you, a separate tach meter I have show shows 800rpm when hooked to the coil. Driver’s test said 880. Not an exact science, is it? I bet the best would be the reading from that teat socket with the sensor on the flywheel. Wonder what device read that thing back in the day
Your CO is .0x which is crazy low. I’ve always had .5-.6 but after some work last Sept, it’s at 1.99 and climbing lol
I think all the tachs read high; I’ve yet to see one indicating 800-something rpm! They all read around 900-1000.
Mine floats at 950 or so. Mind you, a separate tach meter I have shows 800rpm when hooked to the coil. Driver’s test said 880. Not an exact science, is it? I bet the best would be the reading from that test socket with the sensor on the flywheel. Wonder what device read that thing back in the day
Your CO is .0x which is crazy low. I’ve always had .5-.6 but after some work last Sept, it’s at 1.99 and climbing lol
05-07-2018, 03:41 PM
smog success ... barely
