Evap delete & Canister venting?
05-06-2018, 08:38 AM
#46
Drifting
Or get cheap oil and while the head is off and the oil cooler housing is off just turn the engine over to spit the coolant out. You may only need a couple of liters of oil. I think that would work then set your #1 piston back at TDC. Yea these cars will drain any bank account rapidly.
05-06-2018, 02:24 PM
#48
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Like this? 
05-06-2018, 05:28 PM
#49
Rennlist Member
Unfortunately, Rennlist no longer supports those user webpages as far as I can tell, so I'd need to move them somewhere else to make changes like that. 
If you drained the coolant first, I don't know how/why you'd have so much coolant up so high up like that? That's never been my experience...but sorry it happened to you. I'd maybe pour a little oil down the filter holes and turn the motor by hand with the drain plug open, and repeat a few times to help flush it out, then maybe change the oil after running the motor a bit, if still in doubt. Eventually coolant will steam out as you run the motor, but obviously you'd rather not run it with water in the oil. By the look of the oil filler tube, however, you had plenty of coolant in it already, so a flushing oil change or two was probably in order. For what it's worth, the head gasket in my car started leaking when the car was still just a few year old and under warranty. The dealer not only changed the gasket, but replaced the rod bearings and OPRV, and flushed the oil cooler -- all under warranty. That was probably overkill, but the original owner probably deserved that level of paranoia from the dealer since it was a virtually new car at the time. I've since had HG's blow so badly that coolant was spitting out the tailpipe -- so probably more coolant than you have now in the oil -- and all I did was flush it a few times with oil changes, and the motor was just fine.
If you drained the coolant first, I don't know how/why you'd have so much coolant up so high up like that? That's never been my experience...but sorry it happened to you. I'd maybe pour a little oil down the filter holes and turn the motor by hand with the drain plug open, and repeat a few times to help flush it out, then maybe change the oil after running the motor a bit, if still in doubt. Eventually coolant will steam out as you run the motor, but obviously you'd rather not run it with water in the oil. By the look of the oil filler tube, however, you had plenty of coolant in it already, so a flushing oil change or two was probably in order. For what it's worth, the head gasket in my car started leaking when the car was still just a few year old and under warranty. The dealer not only changed the gasket, but replaced the rod bearings and OPRV, and flushed the oil cooler -- all under warranty. That was probably overkill, but the original owner probably deserved that level of paranoia from the dealer since it was a virtually new car at the time. I've since had HG's blow so badly that coolant was spitting out the tailpipe -- so probably more coolant than you have now in the oil -- and all I did was flush it a few times with oil changes, and the motor was just fine.
05-06-2018, 09:26 PM
#51
Drifting
Thread Starter
I also got coolant in the crossover pipe when I pulled the head. And coolant on the timing belt when I pulled that hose in front,
Too bad you can’t make changes; I’ve got another suggestion! That triangle bracket at the rear should maybe be removed first. I couldn’t rotate the cam tower! The bracket hits the body. So, I put some cardboard to keep the tappets inside. Man that cam thing is heavy
05-06-2018, 10:00 PM
#53
Drifting
I don't see it being your issue. But it's not a bad idea to replace it. Now the oil housing. And if that's not the problem then I really hate to tell you what the only other two items that could be the issue. But I always repair suspected items due to cost if that gives you an idea of the last two items that it could be. Yep the turbocharger itself, or a cracked ceramic exhaust port in your turbo's cylinder head. Clean the exhaust ports until they look new and check for cracks. If they are good then it maybe a cracked turbocharger CHRA(center housing rotational assembly). Hit me up if that is your issue and I can help you out.
05-06-2018, 10:12 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
I never drain the block, just the blue plastic plug at the bottom of the radiator. There's no way you should have coolant that high in the motor if you drained it from the radiator? Drips yes, streams of fluid no way. Did you leave the cap on the reservoir when you drained it? That can create a vacuum effect in the system and slow the draining process to a crawl and trick you into thinking it's empty. Removing the engine-hoist bracket does give more room to roll the tower, though I have to say I've done it fine with the bracket on. I think if a hundred guys wrote a how-to, you'd get a hundred different variations and pet issues that came up for each. Too bad they shut down those sites and don't offer a comment section under it like youtube or pelican. Then everyone could pitch in with what did/didn't work for them. As for the HG, I can't say I see the breach point, at least based on those internet pictures, but I have over a dozen HG's hanging in my garage that look the same, and every last one was leaking for sure....
05-06-2018, 10:15 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
05-06-2018, 10:28 PM
#56
Drifting
Thread Starter
You didn’t drain the block? Hmm.. I don’t get it then. Yes, while draining I had the cap off. The car was cold; maybe the closed thermostat kept some in at that level?
05-06-2018, 10:35 PM
#57
Drifting
Thread Starter
I don't see it being your issue. But it's not a bad idea to replace it. Now the oil housing. And if that's not the problem then I really hate to tell you what the only other two items that could be the issue. But I always repair suspected items due to cost if that gives you an idea of the last two items that it could be. Yep the turbocharger itself, or a cracked ceramic exhaust port in your turbo's cylinder head. Clean the exhaust ports until they look new and check for cracks. If they are good then it maybe a cracked turbocharger CHRA(center housing rotational assembly). Hit me up if that is your issue and I can help you out.
Back in Sept I had the turbo in hand (AOS seals). Looked good.. no play... but I guess the crack wouldn’t be obvious.
I don’t know what an exhaust port is. Heck, I don’t even know how I’m gonna clean the mating surfaces, esp the cam tower part where the gasket is glued on the head worse than my intake gaskets were back on Sept! I know Tom suggests Scotchbrite... but I also read those are not good.
In Sept I used emery cloth after pastic razor blades. Worse part of the entire job
05-06-2018, 10:38 PM
#58
Drifting
Thread Starter
I took off the headers. How are you supposed to torque-wrench the nuts on install? You can’t exactly get a socket setup on a few of them!?
05-07-2018, 01:08 AM
#59
Drifting
This is a dirty exhaust port from one of my 944s. but thinking about it that would only displace coolant and creat other issues and not mix coolant into your oil.
Take the headers off the head. The turbo cylinder head has a ceramic exhaust port unlike the regular 944 cylinder head. The exhaust port is the section of the cylinder head where you can look down and see the exhaust valve stem. I use a lot of WD40 and a scotchbrite bad.
05-07-2018, 10:57 PM
#60
Drifting
Thread Starter
I dropped the head off today at a local automotive machine shop for a "valve job". He said they will clean it up and make sure it's flat, "grind" the valves and seats (that don't sound too good lol), and replace the seals. Not the cheapest service, that's for sure; but, something tells me it's a good idea.
Say.. how do you clean the block side? Clearly, if I'm using emery cloth or a scotchbrite pad, dust will fall into the cylinders and water jacket. What's the safest way?
Say.. how do you clean the block side? Clearly, if I'm using emery cloth or a scotchbrite pad, dust will fall into the cylinders and water jacket. What's the safest way?
