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Finally tracked down the coolant leak in the radiator area of my 951 .I first thought it was the sender. then the loose clips on the pipes above the sender but was dismayed to find a cracked plastic end tank .I am not sure how this was caused ? The rubber grommet ,into which the retaining screw seats, on the side with the leak was a bit damaged but the crack in the plastic looks like a compression failure
A spare old radiator came with the car but the sender position has no brass insert. Do these older radiators work or do they leak from the sender? I will test the rad but that will only be a short pressure test for an hour or so
(Also how do you get the electrical connectors that connect the fans ? Just pull? Removing the rubber boot shows nothing)
I don't know the answer to your crack questions, but I can tell you that removing those fan electrical connections is funny: I've done this about three times, and each time I try to remove them how they appear to connect, just when I'm about to break them, I figure it out.
Ok, I don't remember this moment what the move is, but it's definitely NOT what you think it is!
If we weren't in the middle of this crazy ice storm right now, I'd go out and have a look...
Strange I have tried just pulling them out(with a lot of force) as per Pelican procedure but neither will budge. I got a feeling if I pull any harder the motors of the fans will break
Has anyone got any recommendations for a new rad, in case my spare doesn't work, besides the Porsche part?
I've been looking at all aluminum ones on eBay, prices don't seem to bad.
Mine just pull off by the rubber boot. It's snowing and I'm bored so I checked it myself. Should work unless yours are different somehow. Of course mine have been on/off a few times over the years.
My plugs most likely have never been off. I may try a hair dryer to heat up plastic
If that doesn't work I will try to put back fan tray as assy but it makes it very difficult to not damage radiator
For my research Aluminum rads don't,fit unless very expensive. Anyway these rads are a waste of money once the vehicle is moving you could have tiny rad to cope with the heat transfer reqd
My plugs most likely have never been off. I may try a hair dryer to heat up plastic
If that doesn't work I will try to put back fan tray as assy but it makes it very difficult to not damage radiator
For my research Aluminum rads don't,fit unless very expensive. Anyway these rads are a waste of money once the vehicle is moving you could have tiny rad to cope with the heat transfer reqd
I will disagree with you whole heartedly on a small radiator sufficing at speed. Dependent on how much boost you are throwing at these engines you are producing a corresponding amount of heat. I have had stock new radiators that could not deal with the amount of heat that was being produced under prolonged boost.
OK you maybe right but if you tell me what your in and out temps are or need to be and we can have a guess knowing the pump flow rate. Even at mad boost levels the engine can only produce a certain level of heat output to the coolant. When the pump is spinning quickly and the airflow is significant the heat transfer from the rad should be more than adequate.it will depend on a lot of factors like the pressure drop of the coolant thru rad and airside and the design of the OEM radiator fin and tube pack. The margin in most OEM radiators of this era are very big(not now)
Not sure about the Al rads available ,do they use turbulators in the coolant tubes?
04-15-2018, 04:30 PM
Radiator end tank
