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are you talking about the 2x M8 bolts that hold the lever plate to the torque tube?
didn't even know there was a torque spec for those, i just make them as tight as my wrist holding the head of the ratchet can make them, probably a little less than 21 nm.
Yep--those are the bolts. The value is 21 nm or 15 lbs ft. However, it's not the torque; as soon as I begin to feel them getting fastened, the lever begins to get real tight, like I'm rowing it through wet concrete.
I guess I'll take it out, clean all the grease I put on the plastic ball thing underneath, and try again. Strange. But.. I got other issues first... like the new clutch slave install & bleed with Motive bleeder.. all looks good.. but the pedal just snaps down and stays there. Geez....
Will the winter-long clutch job never end?!?!?
Last edited by Dan Martinic; 03-10-2018 at 06:38 PM.
The plastic piece needs to be oriented correctly. Look closely at the bottom, it has a slight cup shape that matches the curve of the torque tube.
Bingo. Thank you.
It almost looks right 90deg off, but, of course, it isn't
Now.. if you can solve my clutch pedal, much appreciate it. Off to buy more brake fluid.. note to reader: when ordering ATE fluid, unavailable locally, buy 2 cans or you'll be stuck mixing in the local stuff (my patience for shipping has run out)
This time, with the pressure bleeder hooked full of fluid, I'll have my kid pump the pedal as I open the bleed screw at the new slave. Hope that's correct
...This time, with the pressure bleeder hooked full of fluid, I'll have my kid pump the pedal as I open the bleed screw at the new slave. Hope that's correct
I use a Motive for brakes only now as I’ve found reverse bleeding the clutch system using the oil can method much more efficient and effective. Really google it and watch the YouTube video, saves a lot of work.
Also I never put any fluid in my Motive pressure bleeder, I simply use it dry to apply head pressure to the reservoir. Saves on cleaning and just as effective.
^^i need to do my clutch cylinders soon and am thinking i'll use a mityvac to either pull fluid down to the slave, or, hook the vac to the master cylinder and figure a way to pull fluid UP the system to get bubbles out.
i used this thing when doing my subaru brakes last year and it actually worked to PULL the fluid to the calipers (there is not a Motive adapter for my year range of Subaru and my "homemade adapter" didnt work)
^^i need to do my clutch cylinders soon and am thinking i'll use a mityvac to either pull fluid down to the slave, or, hook the vac to the master cylinder and figure a way to pull fluid UP the system to get bubbles out....
I vote for pulling fluid up as working with those rising air bubbles is better than working against them.
Originally Posted by Dan Martinic
Third time... guess it is the charm. Pedal up... clutch firm.
For brakes, I used to use my compressor for just air... then got tired of constantly taking apart.. adding fluid.. taking apart.. adding fluid..
Good job, sometimes a combination of Motive and pedal is enough to shift those stubborn air bubbles
...and yes the full Motive helps with top-ups though I’ve normally done it in two takes with an empty Motive and it saves me the Motive cleanup, I suppose I’m just lazy when it comes to cleaning things.
I tried the Mityvac method for bleeding the clutch. I remember the bleeder on the slave was a problem as air would get sucked in around the threads once it was loose. My solution was to pack some grease around there but it was still a waste of time compared to using a Motive.
03-10-2018, 09:49 AM
Stiff stick
