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Awaiting my turbo, downpipe, and VEMS, I’m starting to round up some tools that I might need for install. And researching different sites for direction. You guys have any pointers for me or any specialty tools to make things easier? Have a pretty good array already just don’t want to go into this blind. Thanks!!
Hmm. Probably easier that way for sure. Less of a battle. U suggest replacing the voltage regulator while doing that?
I would look into the Nissan alternator mod . It's very popular and a perfect time to do it as a while you're in there, search it on this forum. Here's some pics of it though on my engine. It's smaller with better ventilation eliminating the need for the air duct on the factory setup and has a better voltage output to keep your voltage from dipping when you turn lots of excessories on....Especially at idle. Not to mention very avaliable and much cheaper than a factory alternator. There's an eBay seller that will mount the 944 pulley on it for you as well.
The Nissan alrernator sounds like a great idea!! Found the link on eBay. After the the 6 rib pulley is on, it bolts right up correct? I found the guy on eBay that puts the pulley on for the Porsche. Pretty funny it even says that in his notes.
Clark's Garage has perfect instructions for getting it. Take whatever advice he had as far as optional things to remove to make it easier. Taking shortcuts will turn into longcuts on this job.
When you go after the turbo bolts from below, it helps to have someone from above taking pressure off the turbo (moving it). The way it's mounted to the exhaust puts some lateral pressure on it, making those bolts harder to turn. If someone is above kind of moving the turbo a little while you break the bolts it helps.
Also, there is a fixed nut on the side of the downpipe (trying to remember from a couple years ago). One of the most common posts is someone trying to get it off (or trying to get a wrech on it to counterhold) and not realizing it is welded to the pipe. I think it is the one that fixes the downpipe to the bracket.
Clark's Garage has perfect instructions for getting it. Take whatever advice he had as far as optional things to remove to make it easier. Taking shortcuts will turn into longcuts on this job.
When you go after the turbo bolts from below, it helps to have someone from above taking pressure off the turbo (moving it). The way it's mounted to the exhaust puts some lateral pressure on it, making those bolts harder to turn. If someone is above kind of moving the turbo a little while you break the bolts it helps.
Also, there is a fixed nut on the side of the downpipe (trying to remember from a couple years ago). One of the most common posts is someone trying to get it off (or trying to get a wrech on it to counterhold) and not realizing it is welded to the pipe. I think it is the one that fixes the downpipe to the bracket.
ahhh. That’s another good tip. That would be horrible trying to wrench a welded bolt for 2 hours.
Clark's Garage has perfect instructions for getting it. Take whatever advice he had as far as optional things to remove to make it easier. Taking shortcuts will turn into longcuts on this job.
When you go after the turbo bolts from below, it helps to have someone from above taking pressure off the turbo (moving it). The way it's mounted to the exhaust puts some lateral pressure on it, making those bolts harder to turn. If someone is above kind of moving the turbo a little while you break the bolts it helps.
Also, there is a fixed nut on the side of the downpipe (trying to remember from a couple years ago). One of the most common posts is someone trying to get it off (or trying to get a wrech on it to counterhold) and not realizing it is welded to the pipe. I think it is the one that fixes the downpipe to the bracket.
I hate that Bolt, one of the reasons to go v-band.
I've never tried removing the alternator for extra space, but if you release the steering rack from the cross member it will move enough to give clear access to the turbo mounting bolts. You don't need to undo any power steering lines, or remove the steering column
I've never tried removing the alternator for extra space, but if you release the steering rack from the cross member it will move enough to give clear access to the turbo mounting bolts. You don't need to undo any power steering lines, or remove the steering column
Agree with what everyone said already, but went to my tool box and threw down some of my go to tools. This assumes you already have a good set of sockets wrenches of various depths and lengths. When those don't work I go to whats in the photo. Also threw in some other random specialty tools.
offset ratchet, and offset wrenches always seem to be able to find a way to get some torque.
Various length extensions, and a set of wobble extensions. These come in handy too...sure you can use a universal or a flex socket but they tend to fall down when trying to put them in place. A wobble extension gives a little offset but still firm fit and you can get a set for around $20. Stubby wrenches and flexible extensions are not mandatory, but they sure do come in handy. I use the 1/4 flex extension for all my hose clamps fittings. Notice the magent extension. not sure I could live without that one.
Thats the benefit of doing the work yourself...you tell the wife your saving money as you make another tool purchase.
Agree with what everyone said already, but went to my tool box and threw down some of my go to tools. This assumes you already have a good set of sockets wrenches of various depths and lengths. When those don't work I go to whats in the photo. Also threw in some other random specialty tools.
offset ratchet, and offset wrenches always seem to be able to find a way to get some torque.
Various length extensions, and a set of wobble extensions. These come in handy too...sure you can use a universal or a flex socket but they tend to fall down when trying to put them in place. A wobble extension gives a little offset but still firm fit and you can get a set for around $20. Stubby wrenches and flexible extensions are not mandatory, but they sure do come in handy. I use the 1/4 flex extension for all my hose clamps fittings. Notice the magent extension. not sure I could live without that one.
Thats the benefit of doing the work yourself...you tell the wife your saving money as you make another tool purchase.
I went through all this last year - replaced turbo, exhaust manifolds, crossover and waste-gate.
I did not try to remove the alternator, but I already had the Nissan unit so maybe I had space.
I did try to loosen the the steering rack, but was still unable to remove one of the turbo mount bolts from below. I was able to unscrew it enough to get the turbo off, but could not get the long bolt all the way out - the steering column was in the way, even after turning the wheel a bit
Don't try to remove downpipe. Remove turbo and downpipe as a unit, then separate on the bench. It is easier to pull the three bolts that connect the downpipe and exhaust from below. Also, reinstall the same way - turbo and downpipe on bench, then on to car. I screwed up re installation and had to pull the thing back out to get the downpipe on properly.
If this is the first time the turbo is coming out, get a good hacksaw. There was one bolt on the cross over to turbo flange that was a $#! and I rounded it off and ended up having to cut the head off. There was a tool I got from Ace hardware that allows you to mount a hacksaw blade in a low profile handle
With the intake and turbo out, may consider the o-rings for the AOS, if you still have it installed
02-26-2018, 04:51 PM
Turbo and downpipe install
