Tool for bottom reference bracket bolt?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Tool for bottom reference bracket bolt?
What's your special tool combo for this bottom allen bolt?
Though I got it from behind the bellhousing with allen socket, elbow, and extensions, I suspect once I finish the clutch job, this won't be possible again. Curious how to get at it from the top
For those new to this bracket, it's in the Black Hole lol
Though I got it from behind the bellhousing with allen socket, elbow, and extensions, I suspect once I finish the clutch job, this won't be possible again. Curious how to get at it from the top
For those new to this bracket, it's in the Black Hole lol
#5
Rennlist Member
#6
Instructor
I've not done it this way, but have heard some say to attack it from under the car using several long 1/4" extensions and u-joints or wobble joint extensions and an allen-head socket up around the clutch bell housing.
Have a helper lean into the engine compartment and stab the socket into the allen head bolt as you maneuver it into position from under the car. Would be easier if you have access to a lift. Good Luck!
Have a helper lean into the engine compartment and stab the socket into the allen head bolt as you maneuver it into position from under the car. Would be easier if you have access to a lift. Good Luck!
Last edited by Spring44; 02-26-2018 at 06:13 PM.
#7
Rennlist Member
Once you pull the engine slot the bell housing where the sensors go. Attach the sensors and adjust before the engine goes back in the car.
Search "slotted bellhousing", "bellhousing slot", or do away with it and get a stand alone ecu.
Search "slotted bellhousing", "bellhousing slot", or do away with it and get a stand alone ecu.
Trending Topics
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Some great ideas for attacking from above; I'll try them in order
#9
Pro
#10
The notch was a curse on my motor, it took me quite a while to figure out why it kicked back when starting. It took about 2 years after the notch for the symptoms to start, but once they did they were maddening. If you notch you absolutely must have the updated sensor w/ sleeve. The kick back significantly reduces the life of your timing belt.
#12
Maybe, but the risk of that coming loose is significant enough for me to skip it. The sleeve and bracket are about $70 each... still cheaper than dealing with that chunk getting down into the clutch area.
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When replacing my broken clutch disk 18 months ago I converted the "black hole" to a "light gray hole" by removing the intake manifold (and fuel rail). As I recall I just used a standard "L" shaped allen wrench for the lower bracket bolt, short end to loosen it and long ball end to fully remove it.
The previous installer had used a 3/8" bolt (upper passenger side) instead of one of the four M10 (bellhousing to engine) bolts, which may have been the only reason why the clutch disk was broken. For that (strength / flex) reason I did not notch out the bellhousing.
The sensors were a pain to get out of the bracket and the sleeve even worse to get off the one sensor. Before removing the bracket (with sensors) I marked its position and with success reinstalled it to that mark (no further sensor adjustment was needed).
Laust
The previous installer had used a 3/8" bolt (upper passenger side) instead of one of the four M10 (bellhousing to engine) bolts, which may have been the only reason why the clutch disk was broken. For that (strength / flex) reason I did not notch out the bellhousing.
The sensors were a pain to get out of the bracket and the sleeve even worse to get off the one sensor. Before removing the bracket (with sensors) I marked its position and with success reinstalled it to that mark (no further sensor adjustment was needed).
Laust
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yikes! That's an interesting story on the broken disk. Now I'm glad I put all the nuts & bolts in little plastic baggies and label them lol
I understand the intake removal.. but.. frankly, I've been on this project since early December--on a car that I drove near--daily for past 10 years--and if I have to wait for yet another part, ie. intake manifold gaskets, I'm gonna lose it!
Most of my slow motion is due to waiting.
Clutch kit from Texas. Then... oh wow, that slave cylinder looks bad. Better order one... then, ooops busted this bolt, better get another... then oh yeah, these reference sensors don't just slide out; 2 new ones coming... then wow this catalytic has all kinds of crap falling out of it, no wonder I'm not passing..... then....
Just yesterday I drove 50km to pick up one lousy 'figure-8' shim that took two days to come
One more delay.. and... I'm taking a sledgehammer to it!!!
I understand the intake removal.. but.. frankly, I've been on this project since early December--on a car that I drove near--daily for past 10 years--and if I have to wait for yet another part, ie. intake manifold gaskets, I'm gonna lose it!
Most of my slow motion is due to waiting.
Clutch kit from Texas. Then... oh wow, that slave cylinder looks bad. Better order one... then, ooops busted this bolt, better get another... then oh yeah, these reference sensors don't just slide out; 2 new ones coming... then wow this catalytic has all kinds of crap falling out of it, no wonder I'm not passing..... then....
Just yesterday I drove 50km to pick up one lousy 'figure-8' shim that took two days to come
One more delay.. and... I'm taking a sledgehammer to it!!!