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Tool for bottom reference bracket bolt?

Old 02-25-2018, 10:24 PM
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Dan Martinic
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Default Tool for bottom reference bracket bolt?

What's your special tool combo for this bottom allen bolt?

Though I got it from behind the bellhousing with allen socket, elbow, and extensions, I suspect once I finish the clutch job, this won't be possible again. Curious how to get at it from the top




For those new to this bracket, it's in the Black Hole lol


Old 02-26-2018, 01:35 PM
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V2Rocket
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worst case you could use the appropriate size allen wrench and then get a box wrench in that size to turn the allen wrench, if that makes sense.,
Old 02-26-2018, 04:30 PM
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NCLA951
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Pain and anger mostly.

I fashioned a custom short Allen socket with a small 1/4” driver, and that plus blood, expletives and time did the trick.
Old 02-26-2018, 04:36 PM
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KVDR
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I replaced the socket head bolts with standard hex-head bolts. No need to make this job any worse.

Old 02-26-2018, 04:51 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by KVDR
I replaced the socket head bolts with standard hex-head bolts. No need to make this job any worse.

Sorry for OT: but can/did you post the .stl for the TDC window somewhere?
Old 02-26-2018, 04:58 PM
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I've not done it this way, but have heard some say to attack it from under the car using several long 1/4" extensions and u-joints or wobble joint extensions and an allen-head socket up around the clutch bell housing.
Have a helper lean into the engine compartment and stab the socket into the allen head bolt as you maneuver it into position from under the car. Would be easier if you have access to a lift. Good Luck!

Last edited by Spring44; 02-26-2018 at 06:13 PM.
Old 02-26-2018, 07:18 PM
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rlm328
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Once you pull the engine slot the bell housing where the sensors go. Attach the sensors and adjust before the engine goes back in the car.

Search "slotted bellhousing", "bellhousing slot", or do away with it and get a stand alone ecu.
Old 02-26-2018, 08:34 PM
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Dan Martinic
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Originally Posted by rlm328
Once you pull the engine slot the bell housing where the sensors go. Attach the sensors and adjust before the engine goes back in the car.

Search "slotted bellhousing", "bellhousing slot", or do away with it and get a stand alone ecu.
I was going to cut those slots, then I read about all the problems with electrical interference.. and found that Porsche tech bulletin about it. Decided to keep it stock.

Some great ideas for attacking from above; I'll try them in order
Old 02-26-2018, 08:38 PM
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KVDR
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Originally Posted by rlm328
Once you pull the engine slot the bell housing where the sensors go. Attach the sensors and adjust before the engine goes back in the car.

Search "slotted bellhousing", "bellhousing slot", or do away with it and get a stand alone ecu.
Someone prior to my ownership slotted my bellhousing and it caused hard starting from RF interference. I solved it by updating to the new sensor bracket with sleeve. I'd avoid this if you can, as Porsche has a technical bulletin against it.


Old 03-01-2018, 02:10 PM
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Arominus
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The notch was a curse on my motor, it took me quite a while to figure out why it kicked back when starting. It took about 2 years after the notch for the symptoms to start, but once they did they were maddening. If you notch you absolutely must have the updated sensor w/ sleeve. The kick back significantly reduces the life of your timing belt.
Old 03-01-2018, 03:24 PM
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V2Rocket
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...i wonder if you could attach the "notched out" piece of BH to the sensor bracket via weld or epoxy.
Old 03-01-2018, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket
...i wonder if you could attach the "notched out" piece of BH to the sensor bracket via weld or epoxy.
Maybe, but the risk of that coming loose is significant enough for me to skip it. The sleeve and bracket are about $70 each... still cheaper than dealing with that chunk getting down into the clutch area.
Old 03-02-2018, 12:50 PM
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Laust Pedersen
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When replacing my broken clutch disk 18 months ago I converted the "black hole" to a "light gray hole" by removing the intake manifold (and fuel rail). As I recall I just used a standard "L" shaped allen wrench for the lower bracket bolt, short end to loosen it and long ball end to fully remove it.

The previous installer had used a 3/8" bolt (upper passenger side) instead of one of the four M10 (bellhousing to engine) bolts, which may have been the only reason why the clutch disk was broken. For that (strength / flex) reason I did not notch out the bellhousing.

The sensors were a pain to get out of the bracket and the sleeve even worse to get off the one sensor. Before removing the bracket (with sensors) I marked its position and with success reinstalled it to that mark (no further sensor adjustment was needed).

Laust
Old 03-02-2018, 03:10 PM
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Dan Martinic
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Yikes! That's an interesting story on the broken disk. Now I'm glad I put all the nuts & bolts in little plastic baggies and label them lol

I understand the intake removal.. but.. frankly, I've been on this project since early December--on a car that I drove near--daily for past 10 years--and if I have to wait for yet another part, ie. intake manifold gaskets, I'm gonna lose it!

Most of my slow motion is due to waiting.

Clutch kit from Texas. Then... oh wow, that slave cylinder looks bad. Better order one... then, ooops busted this bolt, better get another... then oh yeah, these reference sensors don't just slide out; 2 new ones coming... then wow this catalytic has all kinds of crap falling out of it, no wonder I'm not passing..... then....

Just yesterday I drove 50km to pick up one lousy 'figure-8' shim that took two days to come

One more delay.. and... I'm taking a sledgehammer to it!!!
Old 03-02-2018, 05:42 PM
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KVDR
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Dan - I hear ya! ... and it's 2x as expensive to ship to Canada. 4x if the supplier uses UPS Ground.

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