Cloud9...68

I've confirmed after doing a test fit that the FVD bump steer kits fit my 968 perfectly, so I'm sure it would work on at least a late model 944 as well. FVD was very good to deal with, and they deliverd the tie rod ends promptly. Just another option for people correcting the roll centers on their lowered cars.

floatingkiwi

Old post but: has anyone tried the bump steer kit for a 94-04 mustang? I read somewhere that one person had done this but had to ream the taper?

The problem I have with the elephant racing kit is that they are putting a straight bolt through the steering knuckle taper - so how does that work...

Droops83

I am using a new/old stock Weltmeister 911 bump steer kit that I found on the shelf at my shop some years ago (threads onto 944 inner tie rods, scroll up to post #13 above for a pic), and it uses a tapered adaptor sleeve that fits within the tapered bore of the knuckle and works quite well. These sleeves can be seen in the pic of the Tarett kit shown here, just below the wave washer:

https://www.tarett.com/items/914-pro...bsk-detail.htm

Humboldtgrin

There’s other alternatives. I used a bump steering kit from a 96-98 mustang and bought a 7.15 degree angle drill bit reemer all off eBay. I used stock 944 manual steering inner tie rods (shorter). Still had to grind some material off the heim joint. I didn’t need a machine shop. Just a grinder and a drill.

floatingkiwi

I have asked FVD if this kit fits a 944. They dont seem to think so but I had read a post here (#16) that says it goes straight in?
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/FVD3479110...-30-mm-12.html

floatingkiwi

another nice option: (if it fits!!)
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...n=REN-S-01009P

Julian Allen

It is possible to use the FVD kit with the new style manual tie rods (male tie rod end, female threads on tie rod), but some modifications are needed. You'll need a high quality 14 x 1.5 mm tap, access to a mill, and a bandsaw is helpful.
First, measure the length of the tie rod from center of ball joint stud to end that screws onto the rack. For me, this was about 17 1/4" and this will be where you want the center of adjustment to land. Secure a pair of 100 mm wheel studs (I got them from Paragon), because finding a high strength fully threaded stud of this length is otherwise challenging. Cut the head of the stud off (bandsaw) and dress the cut end. Thread the stud into the FVD or other vendor rod end, leaving about 1/2" free space for adjustment, then lay this along the original tie rod (with the end removed) so you can see where your measured distance puts your new rod end. You'll need space on the stud for adjustment and for two lock nuts (one on the tie rod and one on the rod end). That tells you where to cut the tie rod, which should be fairly square in order to make threading easier. Put the rod in a vise, then with your most excellent tap and appropriate cutting fluid, continue the threads for a depth of about two inches. I followed with a bottoming tap to complete the threads, but if you have at least two inches of thread in the rod you should be fine. Now put the rod in the mill and dress the end so it's square. This is important because you want the lock nut to be really secure. Clean up everything, assemble the tie rod and end and you should be good to go!

Jay Wellwood

Good to see you drop in Mr. Allen.

Any update on the RSR Project?

Julian Allen

Always progress, sometimes at a better speed but always one foot in front of the other.
I'll see about an update in a few weeks. It is disappointing though to tell the build story only to have the pictures disappear a few years later--probably has happened to a number of folks.
I think it's really possible to have the car complete by the end of this year.