Speeddemon944

Hi All,

I am replacing the clutch in my race car and will be taking advantage of the PITA job to get a lighter PP and FW. I saw the SPEC "Push" style clutch on Lindsey's website and called Mike. He recommended the Stage 1 Push. We talked for awhile and I think it is the best option for me. I have utilized the search feature here on RL and gained a bunch of knowledge but still have a few questions. Here are my questions -

1. Pedal stop - Any consensus on the pedal stop design/location/solution?
1.a. - How long should the stop be? I failed to ask Mike and their website doesn't have that info. I haven't reached out to SPEC yet
2. Any feedback on this 'Push' system?
2. a. Any feedback on the install?
3. General thoughts or feedback/suggestions?

Car details -

- 2800 lbs w/ driver - trying to get to the ballpark of 2600
- Stock motor + Lindsey boost enhancer - plan to maybe go to 300hp MAX awhile down the road
- Typical race car mods - suspension
- Running 18" 255s all the way around

TIA!!

marky522

Interested to hear your feedback on this, i bought the stage 2 push style for my car but am still assembling my engine. I saw the not about the pedal stop but havent come across anyone that has actually set one up.

Mark

Speeddemon944

Update: Called Spec - they didn't have any real info on fabbing up a pedal stop.

Hopefully someone on here has done it and can help prevent me from having to re-invent the wheel!

Speeddemon944

Update: Parts ordered and I haven't gotten any real feedback. SPEC and Lindsey say to press the clutch pedal in until you hear the metal fingers hit the flywheel. Then you know where to stop and build the pedal stop to stop the pedal slightly before the fingers make contact... Seems like an insane way to figure it out (though effective).

V2Rocket

for a stop, howabout just drilling a hole in the back of the pedal's "bracket thing" and putting a long carriage bolt+nuts to make it "adjustable"?
the rounded head of the bolt would be what contacts the firewall/carpet.

vwmann1

I have all the answers you need! at work right now post to follow.

David Ewell

Installed a Spec 3 Semi-Metallic Push Clutch on my new 3.1 and did not install a stop. I've adjusted my clutch petal low enough not to need one and after a 1K miles including 3 track days and had no problems not having a stop. The throw on these push type clutches is very short compared to the old fork. The force to push in the clutch you'll have to get used to because there is very little of it. Reminds me of how a Honda or Toyota clutch feels like. The semi-metallic clutch has a bit of chatter now and takes some delicate feathering for street driving. The install was pretty easy so nothing to worry about there.

mahoney944

I've read some conflicting stories on installing Lindsey racings push style clutch kits. I was told if you have the factory carpet you probably don't need a stop. In my case, my carpet is worn where the clutch pedal hits the floor and doesn't stop the pedal anymore than if there wasnt carpet. Every mini twin post I've read said you need a stop definitely and reported over extending the slave cylinder if you don't or having to adjust the pedal down to prevent it. It's not clear for the single disc kits. One person posted this pic of their stop which is a 5/16 thick piece of rubber.


This seems like it barely adds much of a stop which raises the question do you even need it? What's the proper way to set these clutches? I need to bleed my clutch tomorrow and I'm worried about over extending the cylinder and adding lots of unnecessary work. On the flip side I don't want to add a stop I don't need or have a stop set too far out and effect disengagement. There should be proper instructions with this kit...... And if you need to use a pedal stop it should be included. Anyone using this kit if you could post how you set yours it would be appreciated. Also if you're using the single push type or mini twin. Any details on your stop thickness or height and how you determined it. Thank you

mahoney944

For reference I have a spec push type clutch, not the mini twin. I made a wooden block 1" x 0.7" x 0.5" thick and taped it to the existing stop bracket on the pedal. My pedal is set stock. I did this just to bleed the clutch and it worked great. Not 100% sure it's needed. I may remove it to find out. I'll update this post if I do.

mahoney944

Ended up removing the wooden block and tested. Works fine without the stop and has for 5000 miles but I believe the slave is extending further than needed and is closer to the pop out point than I'd like.. Lindsey now sells a pedal stop for just this. I may buy it just to cut back the travel. Found here: Clutch pedal stop.

Also, I noticed the mini twins slave vs the single push slave seem to be different, seen in these images below. I'm guessing the larger rim on the single disc bearing is just thick enough to keep the slave bearing from popping out. I'm not sure if the bearing was updated at some point or it's just different between setups but that might be why it's required on mini twins and not single disc.

Mini twins:


Single push type:

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