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Hey.. how does a plastic nipple threaded into a rad break inside where it's threaded? It's not like I was turning it or something? Maybe, when I removed the rad to crimp up the sides, I undid the original piece and then over tightened it on re-install, causing a crack.
That particular fitting has been the cause of grief for many 944 owners over the years.
They just get brittle from heat cycling, I think they might be a different type of plastic to the rad tanks?
You got lucky and were able to extract both pieces...
Not sure how to verify running in closed loop, will have to look into that question. Josh at Roguetuning would be able to answer that question.
I do find the O2 sensor in my '87 car to be nice confirmation all is well with the fuel/air side.
I am embarking on a HG and oil thermostat seals. After I'm done, but before I take it to the emissions test, I'm going to try and verify all I can, starting with the plugs, etc. I have thought that maybe my new O2 sensor's signals aren't getting read by the computer (ie. problem after the connection).
More than once I've read / heard about using the stock O2 sensor to diagnose air/fuel at idle. But, I've also heard only a wideband can do it right. For the stock one, should I borrow the oscilloscope again? Alan, how do you measure this?
Hi Dan,
I installed the wide band in my dash. Seems like it was $200ish, and needs a bung welded to the exhaust. I like the independent verification of air/fuel ratio. Do remember the down pipe, for the exhaust, is double wall SS. you can weld the SS with a MIG using mild steel wire.
The spark plugs are going to point you in the right direction. The stock O2 is narrow band. You will need to take the cover off the DME plug, and use a volt meter. Seems like someone on the site posted the proper voltage to A/F ratio.
Hi Dan,
Reading the plugs, looks at the color of the ceramic. They should be uniform color. Look at the plugs, viewing from the electrode end and looking into the cavity for the ceramic. There is some variation in the color, for plug 1. The darker color from running more rich mixture. You could verify by swapping injector 1 and 3. and take a spirited ride for 15 minutes. Overall not bad. Also verify spark plug wire leakage, best done in the dark.
why are you pulling the head gasket?
I've had a lot of milkshake foam in the oil filler neck for a while. Changed AOS seals in Sept and didn't make a difference. I noticed that coolant rises very high in overflow tank and when boosting a lot, some comes out. It was suggested this might be an HG fault.
I pulled the HG but it looks pretty solid. Ah, well. Next I am changing the oil thermostat & cooler seals.
Pretty soon, all that will be left is the bearings and a paint job lol
Anything I can do while the head is off to improve my CO at idle?
Oh yes, of course. Man that seems high for that little cooler and the lines. I'm guessing I'll be able to plug it and test the pressure with the pump still; bike tires are usually around 50-60psi. I'll pump it up and dunk it in water.
My oil pressure never gets past "4" and is usually idling around 2-3 bar on the dash, depending on the oil (fresh oil around 3 bar, after a few months down to 2 bar)
04-27-2018, 09:47 PM
