Building a Stroker/wet sleeved 951S - Borg Warner EFR 6258 (Cross posted)
#61
Burning Brakes
Just get a good cam and valvespring upgrade instead. It's much cheaper and provides good gains.
#62
Instructor
Thread Starter
well Michael Mount decided that he just doesn't have the time to do all of the work. so where im at now is:
Michael will do the head work, and help me get custom JE pistons.
Moldex has my crank now doing the offset grind.
A local guy named Brian from M and B Cylinder Heads comes recommended for doing turbo motors, and he will be doing the boring and decking etc.
Michael has a dry sleeved 3.0 block I will be buying from him.
So its slowly starting to come together, I just need to get a head to Michael to start with.
Michael will do the head work, and help me get custom JE pistons.
Moldex has my crank now doing the offset grind.
A local guy named Brian from M and B Cylinder Heads comes recommended for doing turbo motors, and he will be doing the boring and decking etc.
Michael has a dry sleeved 3.0 block I will be buying from him.
So its slowly starting to come together, I just need to get a head to Michael to start with.
#63
Instructor
Thread Starter
Crank is about done with nitride-ing (a word?), grind is done.
2.5na head is at Michael's, we are going with 105mm bore as his preference on the dry sleeves. The block has no BS covers so he is going to make plugs for balance shaft delete.
Then he will start on head work, and order pistons and rings.
She's getting going!
2.5na head is at Michael's, we are going with 105mm bore as his preference on the dry sleeves. The block has no BS covers so he is going to make plugs for balance shaft delete.
Then he will start on head work, and order pistons and rings.
She's getting going!
#64
Instructor
Thread Starter
Crank is on its way to me.
We had to have a 2.7 head sent to Michael for the work because he couldn't source 48mm intake valves for under about $400 anymore. So he should be started this next week probably.
Definitely a slow process... Meanwhile I finally got my passenger seat to move and pulled out. it wouldn't move forward or back, and the manual twist was stuck as well. Finally pounded on it enough though. Not sure what im going to replace it with, but anything is lighter than what was there. I have to have a pass seat because of autocross classing.
Also went ahead and pulled the drivers seat and put in the Corbeau. Ive modified the seat, the sliders and the mounting brackets to sit as low as possible/tilted back, but I still am going to have to modify the drivers side sunroof latch because my helmet hits just slightly.
Unfortunately in addition to hillclimbs, I run a lot of autocross and plan to stay in Super Street Mod (which is also where I class in the NHA hillclimbs). This means I have to keep most of my interior in tact. I did finally get to pulling a bunch of aftermarket stereo wiring that had been annoying me for some time now. Ive installed a lot of stereos in my time, and this was ridiculous. It looks like they installed subs in the rear, several times, and just redid the wiring each time.
I have a bolt in rollbar I got a good deal on, that I plan to modify at the feet to spread the load out as much as possible for now, and later (as more money comes) I can extend have it extended forward into a cage. With all that I need to figure out mounting for my harnesses as well.
I will have balance shafts deleted, and AC deleted as well. I have made my own Coolshirt-type system that we have nicknamed the Polar-Poncho, that ill put in in place of the AC. Got a used AC delete bracket. That combined with the Nissan Quest alternator that I run should free up a lot of space for me.
Cooling will be my next top concern with this whole deal. Not sure yet how I plan to deal with that.
We had to have a 2.7 head sent to Michael for the work because he couldn't source 48mm intake valves for under about $400 anymore. So he should be started this next week probably.
Definitely a slow process... Meanwhile I finally got my passenger seat to move and pulled out. it wouldn't move forward or back, and the manual twist was stuck as well. Finally pounded on it enough though. Not sure what im going to replace it with, but anything is lighter than what was there. I have to have a pass seat because of autocross classing.
Also went ahead and pulled the drivers seat and put in the Corbeau. Ive modified the seat, the sliders and the mounting brackets to sit as low as possible/tilted back, but I still am going to have to modify the drivers side sunroof latch because my helmet hits just slightly.
Unfortunately in addition to hillclimbs, I run a lot of autocross and plan to stay in Super Street Mod (which is also where I class in the NHA hillclimbs). This means I have to keep most of my interior in tact. I did finally get to pulling a bunch of aftermarket stereo wiring that had been annoying me for some time now. Ive installed a lot of stereos in my time, and this was ridiculous. It looks like they installed subs in the rear, several times, and just redid the wiring each time.
I have a bolt in rollbar I got a good deal on, that I plan to modify at the feet to spread the load out as much as possible for now, and later (as more money comes) I can extend have it extended forward into a cage. With all that I need to figure out mounting for my harnesses as well.
I will have balance shafts deleted, and AC deleted as well. I have made my own Coolshirt-type system that we have nicknamed the Polar-Poncho, that ill put in in place of the AC. Got a used AC delete bracket. That combined with the Nissan Quest alternator that I run should free up a lot of space for me.
Cooling will be my next top concern with this whole deal. Not sure yet how I plan to deal with that.
#65
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, things are in the works. The head work is completed by Michael Mount, the block is finished with the balance shaft delete and all. I have the offset crank and have ordered my rods and bearings. Just waiting on custom Pistons that Michael has ordered for me.
That brings me to a question I'm trying to figure out - I have 72 pound injectors and the stock fuel pump. Will those be sufficient? I will be keeping the small efr turbo for now and running about 18 lb of boost, the motor will be a 3.25 L. I'm not sure how much power to expect from that on Pump Fuel.
That brings me to a question I'm trying to figure out - I have 72 pound injectors and the stock fuel pump. Will those be sufficient? I will be keeping the small efr turbo for now and running about 18 lb of boost, the motor will be a 3.25 L. I'm not sure how much power to expect from that on Pump Fuel.
#67
Instructor
Thread Starter
assuming your 3 liter is turboed, how much boost are you running, and about how much power are you putting out? I'm trying to even find a ballpark range of what to expect.
ultimately my goal is torque coming out of Corners at the hill climbs, not overall power. I'm hoping to rely more on displacement than boost, but I've been previously running 16 to 18 pounds of boost on the old motor, so why not again..
#68
Sorry missed your question until now.
If you look at the Lindsey Racing site on fuel pumps there is a pic of my Bosch HV pump. My pump is the actual one in the photo. I bought that one off them used. https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/TECHFPUMP.html
Yes I am 3.0L turbo. When I was running the Mafterburner....now have LR M-tune....I put down 418Hp and 444ft/lbs of torque at 15 pounds boost on 94 octane pump gas.
There are 3 fuel pump options that are easy to install instead of the stock pump: The Bosch HV pump, Bosch 044 and the AEM 044 equivalent pump. I think the AEM pump is worth a try. http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...flow-fuel-pump
The AEM pump specs are pretty impressive compared to the other fuel pumps. Just need to consider wiring...that is an issue with the 044 pump for some people. Thinking off the top of my head if you are running 16-18 pounds of boost I don't think the amperage requirements for the AEM would require changing the wiring to a larger wire to support current load.
You have many options for fuel line configuration for this too. I seemed to have enough fuel supply when I did my dyno run on the mafterburner looking at AFR's. However, I will be changing my setup to the AEM pump running M-tune and VEMS. I have the RAGE2 to build as well.
I am guessing I should do much better power wise when I play with the M-tune and VEMS. Dyno run was also pretty heat soaked as we did not have any fans blowing on the car in a warm shop.
Here is a link to the original build.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ne-bay-10.html
If you look at the Lindsey Racing site on fuel pumps there is a pic of my Bosch HV pump. My pump is the actual one in the photo. I bought that one off them used. https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/TECHFPUMP.html
Yes I am 3.0L turbo. When I was running the Mafterburner....now have LR M-tune....I put down 418Hp and 444ft/lbs of torque at 15 pounds boost on 94 octane pump gas.
There are 3 fuel pump options that are easy to install instead of the stock pump: The Bosch HV pump, Bosch 044 and the AEM 044 equivalent pump. I think the AEM pump is worth a try. http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...flow-fuel-pump
The AEM pump specs are pretty impressive compared to the other fuel pumps. Just need to consider wiring...that is an issue with the 044 pump for some people. Thinking off the top of my head if you are running 16-18 pounds of boost I don't think the amperage requirements for the AEM would require changing the wiring to a larger wire to support current load.
You have many options for fuel line configuration for this too. I seemed to have enough fuel supply when I did my dyno run on the mafterburner looking at AFR's. However, I will be changing my setup to the AEM pump running M-tune and VEMS. I have the RAGE2 to build as well.
I am guessing I should do much better power wise when I play with the M-tune and VEMS. Dyno run was also pretty heat soaked as we did not have any fans blowing on the car in a warm shop.
Here is a link to the original build.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ne-bay-10.html
what is the high velocity pump that you're speaking of?
assuming your 3 liter is turboed, how much boost are you running, and about how much power are you putting out? I'm trying to even find a ballpark range of what to expect.
ultimately my goal is torque coming out of Corners at the hill climbs, not overall power. I'm hoping to rely more on displacement than boost, but I've been previously running 16 to 18 pounds of boost on the old motor, so why not again..
assuming your 3 liter is turboed, how much boost are you running, and about how much power are you putting out? I'm trying to even find a ballpark range of what to expect.
ultimately my goal is torque coming out of Corners at the hill climbs, not overall power. I'm hoping to rely more on displacement than boost, but I've been previously running 16 to 18 pounds of boost on the old motor, so why not again..
#69
Rennlist Member
I would definitely say you will need larger injs and pump.
#70
Instructor
Thread Starter
So im getting the 3.0 block plus built 8v head from Michael in a few weeks probably, and then ill have it bored etc, then starts assembly. balance shafts are deleted, as will AC be. any help making a list would be great... trying to make a list of things I will need. these are the places with the best prices ive found
- Head studs -- from MM
- main bearings -- europortparts
- short block kit 944 100 901 03 -- parts geek
- head gasket kit 951 100 901 00 -- parts geek
- head gasket per MM specs
- TB Tensioner -- maybe
- TB Idler -- maybe
- TB -- parts geek
- 968 WP -- parts geek
- Cam Seal Flange 928-105-139-02 -- parts geek
- Cam seal 999 113 349 40 -- parts geek
- Cam o-ring 999-701-602-40-M17 -- parts geek
- cam tower gasket -- (already have)
- main bearings -- europortparts
- short block kit 944 100 901 03 -- parts geek
- head gasket kit 951 100 901 00 -- parts geek
- head gasket per MM specs
- TB Tensioner -- maybe
- TB Idler -- maybe
- TB -- parts geek
- 968 WP -- parts geek
- Cam Seal Flange 928-105-139-02 -- parts geek
- Cam seal 999 113 349 40 -- parts geek
- Cam o-ring 999-701-602-40-M17 -- parts geek
- cam tower gasket -- (already have)
Last edited by PDX-944; 01-31-2018 at 06:43 PM.
#71
Instructor
Thread Starter
I think the list in the above post is pretty well done. I ordered most of the items on that list. anything else should be pretty minor... waiting on HG specs from MM, and MM is checking if he has head studs. should I replace the washers and nuts as well for the head?
I guess I also need to source some exhaust studs etc I think... I will have to check with MM what all was removed. I'm sure plenty more purchases are in my future.
Rods and rod bearings arrived last night!
I guess I also need to source some exhaust studs etc I think... I will have to check with MM what all was removed. I'm sure plenty more purchases are in my future.
Rods and rod bearings arrived last night!