Building a Stroker/wet sleeved 951S - Borg Warner EFR 6258 (Cross posted)
#46
Instructor
Thread Starter
Heres where I am at then
Deck height 9.05" - 944Enhancement
Bore 4.17" (106mm) OR 104mm - 944Enhancement
Stroke 3.7" (94mm) on 3.0 crank via Moldex Crankshafts
Rod Length 5.9" (150mm) Eagle Mitsubishi 4G63 (6 bolt) Part Number CRS5900MC3D
Bearing ACL 4B1146H
Chamber Vol 56cc
Gasket Thickness - TBD
Piston Dome TBD
Pin Height 1.26" (32mm)
ARP Head studs
Spec Stage 3 - 6 puck clutch
Deck height 9.05" - 944Enhancement
Bore 4.17" (106mm) OR 104mm - 944Enhancement
Stroke 3.7" (94mm) on 3.0 crank via Moldex Crankshafts
Rod Length 5.9" (150mm) Eagle Mitsubishi 4G63 (6 bolt) Part Number CRS5900MC3D
Bearing ACL 4B1146H
Chamber Vol 56cc
Gasket Thickness - TBD
Piston Dome TBD
Pin Height 1.26" (32mm)
ARP Head studs
Spec Stage 3 - 6 puck clutch
Last edited by PDX-944; 10-04-2017 at 08:10 PM.
#48
Instructor
Thread Starter
It was not necessarily my 1st choice, but because I got a Brand new one in packaging for 450 from the classifieds here, I went with it. I also don't drive my car on the streets, it just gets trailered to events, so I'm not as worried about it. I can always replace that in my 2nd stage of this build later on if I don't like it! I have been extremely unhappy with my stage 2 spec clutch, But because a previous owner put it in, I can't say the life it had before me
#50
Rennlist Member
Who did the MidJob?
#52
Rennlist Member
Ok, then I trust that this has been done the correct way. MiDs can prove catastrophic if not.
#53
Instructor
Thread Starter
im in talks with Michael Mount right now about using a 3 liter block he has and having him sleeve it, not MID sleeves though. he has a lot of experience as well and may help me with big valve work on a head, etc as well.
#54
Rennlist Member
You're going to get a lot of very opposing views about MiDs. Less so about dry sleeves. Both probably made by Darton. Both Chris and Michael know their craft. Michael might suggest you look at a 16v motor though. I'd agree it's certainly worth consideration, but you can still make something that would serve your purpose with a torquey 8v.
#55
Instructor
Thread Starter
You're going to get a lot of very opposing views about MiDs. Less so about dry sleeves. Both probably made by Darton. Both Chris and Michael know their craft. Michael might suggest you look at a 16v motor though. I'd agree it's certainly worth consideration, but you can still make something that would serve your purpose with a torquey 8v.
He's not sure he has the balance shafts and covers from the 3.0 block he has, but thinks he can work something out if I want them.
I really don't know... I've read there really is not a benefit in deleting, and more harm than good.
#56
Rennlist Member
Well you're in good hands with MM. A few people have done the b/shaft delete without concern however you need to get a good dampener in their place. For a trailer racecar you may consider this. With a road going car I wouldn't bother. Harmonics will kill these motors. Especially high powered oversized ones.
#57
Three Wheelin'
To Bo Honest, Had I known that the Deck was Crooked I would have accounted for it in the pistons.. I dont particularly care for pistons that stick out of the hole. I Received the block from my brother in law. After he took delivery of it and it ate itself.. I had my a reputable engine builder look at why, He said the Rings were Not Gapped properly from the start. So we Squared up the bores, new set of pistons and I lost the HG on No 1 Cyl at the track... I believe that a Sleeved Block might be good for the street, But Im not sold on sleeves... My opinion is that the block Grows so much that you end up losing the clamp-load around the top of the sleeve... and after.. um... 30 Laps... You will wonder where all your water went... I can say this... Cometic gaskets dont work on this setup.. Live and Learn... Im REALLY Leaning Towards NICKASIL Plating for the race engine..
#58
Instructor
Thread Starter
To Bo Honest, Had I known that the Deck was Crooked I would have accounted for it in the pistons.. I dont particularly care for pistons that stick out of the hole. I Received the block from my brother in law. After he took delivery of it and it ate itself.. I had my a reputable engine builder look at why, He said the Rings were Not Gapped properly from the start. So we Squared up the bores, new set of pistons and I lost the HG on No 1 Cyl at the track... I believe that a Sleeved Block might be good for the street, But Im not sold on sleeves... My opinion is that the block Grows so much that you end up losing the clamp-load around the top of the sleeve... and after.. um... 30 Laps... You will wonder where all your water went... I can say this... Cometic gaskets dont work on this setup.. Live and Learn... Im REALLY Leaning Towards NICKASIL Plating for the race engine..
many others have had success. I think you just got a bunk situation... im not losing hope!
#59
Three Wheelin'
Well, I would like to know who has Success with them and what the "tricks" are, Maybe the cometic Gasket is not the way to go? Maybe with the Sleeves/Cometic/and Raceware studs they need more Tourqe than what reaceware recommends with a "Stock Setup" We all know Aluminum Grows more that steel.. So in the sleeve is surrounded by aluminum and the the studs are also in alu... So if the Alu Grows and the Gasket is essentially Flat it must be losing clamp-load... Ill get back you when I take it apart.. No plans on tracking it anymore this year.. If I knew the reason it blew the HG Id Deck it Straight and cut my piston tops... Youre Right.. BUNK DEAL... But who else in the country is good with Darton Wet Sleeves...?
#60
Instructor
Thread Starter
So far I have a sleeved 3.0 block from Michael. 3.0 Crank is at Moldex for offset grind currently. Going to use a 2.5 NA head to modify because 16 valve adds too much complexity and cost currently for me (intake and exhaust). perhaps later.