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Venting the front fenders for race car

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Old 09-15-2017, 04:25 PM
  #16  
951and944S
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Originally Posted by rlm328
Here is what I did with my rears. I will send better pictures when I get home. Please note my rear fenders were widened 1-1/2 inches on each side for a total of 3 inches.
Kinda the idea, only my body won't be indented.
It will have a flush mount louvered vent.
Your air is leaving the wheel well and maybe being drawn out.

I will use the interior lower portion of the quarter panel on each side where the sunroof drain tubes run and cap them with a roof flush with the rear deck floor.

T
Old 09-15-2017, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by topley
Well crap!
Thanks a lot T. My morning is shot now having spent it on youtube looking up how to make my own race car wing. The afternoon isn't looking too good either as I'll probably be bouncing back and forth with how to make my own hot wire setup. Keep it up and I'll NEVER finish this car (I mean I need it drivable, but hopefully never finished, this is all so much fun...)

BTW front fenders are fiberglass (have 3" wider rear quarters but I'll save those for another engine) and I'd really like to do something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z08S9d4uyPI

Only push the leading edge all the way to the chassis behind the front wheel. Unfortunately I plan on adding the boxster ABS to my car eventually and it'll have to go inside the passenger side fender.
Well you are in hog heaven then with fiberglass fronts.

Way easier.

I am crewing for my son racing at NOLA motorsports Park all weekend.

If you are leery and can wait, I can do one of my front fenders and do a pic tutorial as I go.

Good Aero....

Pffft,

Do it yourself and call it 'Good Topley'.

I might be able to dig up some wing building pics I took when I did my last one but I'm not promising.

I probably DO have pics of my hot wire cutter.

You just make a large C out of PVC tubing, that material is already a sufficient insulator, then fashion some wing nuts with a tensioner on one side. A high note guitar string works best. I think I ran a 6V lantern battery. Basically, it's a low voltage direct short that heats the wire and moves through foam like butter.

I had chatter at first and had to work out other bugs but I DID do it.

In the end, on the second one, I just found a foam wing cutter business, it was so cheap that making your own bow isn't even worth it.

I can walk you through the pitfalls and how exactly to do it.
No need for videos.

Surf boards and very very high G competition R/C aircraft wings are made in the same way.

T
Old 09-15-2017, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by topley
Well crap!
Thanks a lot T. My morning is shot now having spent it on youtube looking up how to make my own race car wing. The afternoon isn't looking too good either as I'll probably be bouncing back and forth with how to make my own hot wire setup. Keep it up and I'll NEVER finish this car (I mean I need it drivable, but hopefully never finished, this is all so much fun...)

BTW front fenders are fiberglass (have 3" wider rear quarters but I'll save those for another engine) and I'd really like to do something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z08S9d4uyPI

Only push the leading edge all the way to the chassis behind the front wheel. Unfortunately I plan on adding the boxster ABS to my car eventually and it'll have to go inside the passenger side fender.
Ah, Boxster reminds me.

I made some 944 front brake air scoops that fix to the front a-arm modeled after either the Boxster or Cayman rear brake cooling ducts.

They have a snorkel air feed scoop into a round exit for brake hose attachment if anybody wants to try them (free).

They won't work with the 16 inch wheels we race (8" phone dials). They fit under the a-arm near the lower ball joint and rub inside my wheels.

T
Old 09-15-2017, 06:34 PM
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topley
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Definitely post pics when you do your fenders, I certainly have more projects to get done before I get to either the fenders or a wing.
Old 09-15-2017, 07:36 PM
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rlm328
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Originally Posted by 951and944S
Kinda the idea, only my body won't be indented.
It will have a flush mount louvered vent.
Your air is leaving the wheel well and maybe being drawn out.

I will use the interior lower portion of the quarter panel on each side where the sunroof drain tubes run and cap them with a roof flush with the rear deck floor.

T
Nah believe me you want the indent, on a wet track it kinda puts out a muddy mist behind you, which the trailing drivers just love.
Old 09-15-2017, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rlm328
Nah believe me you want the indent, on a wet track it kinda puts out a muddy mist behind you, which the trailing drivers just love.
Ahhh, my evil twin.....!



T
Old 09-18-2017, 10:57 AM
  #22  
Max Energy
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Default Top Fender vents

Attached are some pictures of the vents on the tops of my fenders. We are going to vent the rear sides of both the front and rear quarter panels. We have narrowed down to two designs.
Max
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:09 AM
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topley
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That looks sweet. Please update us with pics when you do the rear side vents of both panels.
Old 09-19-2017, 09:32 AM
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Hi All, here's some venting we run at Mantis , Windtunnel tested.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:23 PM
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Mr. Max, you crack me up! Member since 2006, 411 posts and most of your posts are showing some crazy over the top awesome photos of what your doing.
Old 09-19-2017, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Energy
Attached are some pictures of the vents on the tops of my fenders. We are going to vent the rear sides of both the front and rear quarter panels. We have narrowed down to two designs.
Max
Yes, I like 'em.

The overlap of the slats will at least stop water exit slinging at slower speeds.

I'll bet that if you had a vertical vane standing up on the hood side of the fronts, even higher speed water mist would go past the windshield.

Dude, feel free to rattle can those green doors flat black to get a better overall when you step back from the car to take in a full view.

Even if I ever reuse those, they just as likely will have to be orange as green.

Guess you heard about the enduro ball joint DNF after you left......

T
Old 09-21-2017, 01:41 AM
  #27  
333pg333
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Originally Posted by 91K-Man
Hi All, here's some venting we run at Mantis , Windtunnel tested.
Have you done wool tuft or 'bleed' testing on those vents?

Originally Posted by 951and944S
Yes, I like 'em.

The overlap of the slats will at least stop water exit slinging at slower speeds.

I'll bet that if you had a vertical vane standing up on the hood side of the fronts, even higher speed water mist would go past the windshield.



T
Agreed on having the front vane sitting proud of the surface. However I would question if the spray from the vents could present such an issue as to partially blind the drive on a wet track? I mean it's possible but then again, I've never really heard of this as being an issue and a lot of racecars have vents in this position.
Old 09-21-2017, 10:33 AM
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Yes, Patrick , wool tuffs and anometers . need to find picture of this, will post. Windtunnel testing next month, $1k per half hr, 10 minute setup, 3 blows.
Old 09-21-2017, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Agreed on having the front vane sitting proud of the surface. However I would question if the spray from the vents could present such an issue as to partially blind the drive on a wet track? I mean it's possible but then again, I've never really heard of this as being an issue and a lot of racecars have vents in this position.
It doesn't really matter...., wind driven rain mist would be negated by turbulent disruption from these that I bought for him -

In carbon fiber of course.....




T
Old 09-21-2017, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 91K-Man
Yes, Patrick , wool tuffs and anometers . need to find picture of this, will post. Windtunnel testing next month, $1k per half hr, 10 minute setup, 3 blows.

Kman, does testing show that rear wing height and fore/aft positioning in picture is correct...?

Just curious, usually rules dictate "no higher than roof" so there is an advantage expected to get wing into clean air but the Mantis car is low enough to pick up air adhered to the roof and down the deck as per factory rear rubber wing.

TIA,

T


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